Return System/Clearance Questions

[usmcsvtwannabe]

So I've been doing allot of research and reading around and I'm just trying to make sure I have everything accounted for here:

Parts are as follows,
Fore Fuel Rails
Fore Dual Pump hat w/2 465 walboros
FC3 Controller
Hobbs Switch
-8an feed/return
ID1000s
2.3 whipple Gen 2
Accufab Single Blade TB
BA3000

Most of my questions are regarding the fuel system. Here is the current plan, Fuel hat, -8an to inline filter, -8an to the front side of passenger side fuel rail, -8an cross over line on the rear of the fuel rail (passenger side to driver side) then -8an out the front to FRPR, then -8an to the return port on the hat.

Am I gonna encounter any issues with getting the fuel rails or injectors in with the whipple? (doing all of this off the car)
I'm thinking of deleting my EGR to clean up some space but also to make the crossover on the rear a little easier.
I also heard there is a boost line in the dash that I can hook the hobbs switch up to, true or not? I'm just trying to figure out a smart clean way of doing all this.
I'm pretty surprised there are essentially zero directions anywhere for these kits. I guess everyone has to learn somewhere. I gotta find a vise so I can build these damn lines too.


Pardon any ridiculous questions, this is mostly a first for me so allot of trial and error going on. Thanks for any help or insight guys!!!

Marc

 

[ctgreddy]

That setup will work fine. Honestly I would go deadhead configuration but some people dont like the idea of it. But it helps clean everything up and helps keep fuel temps much lower.

The rails should clear everything on the whipple, maybe even better than the factory rails. but the blower will have to come off which I'm assuming you already know since you said it'll be done off the car.

As for the hobbs switch, the vacuum line that goes into the car from the passenger side will have boost. It hooks to the hvac and runs to the boost gauge on the cluster. So you can hook the switch in under the dash somewhere if you'd like.

 

[usmcsvtwannabe]

That setup will work fine. Honestly I would go deadhead configuration but some people dont like the idea of it. But it helps clean everything up and helps keep fuel temps much lower.

The rails should clear everything on the whipple, maybe even better than the factory rails. but the blower will have to come off which I'm assuming you already know since you said it'll be done off the car.

As for the hobbs switch, the vacuum line that goes into the car from the passenger side will have boost. It hooks to the hvac and runs to the boost gauge on the cluster. So you can hook the switch in under the dash somewhere if you'd like.

I spent about an hr or so looking over Malcolm's thread and he did a great job explaining everything and breaking things down. I am really interested in the dead head setup, seeing how I'll be running Dual 465s every degree of heat I can keep off the fuel the better.

I appreciate the heads up on the vacuum line, I'm exploring a few different locations.

Thanks for the info man, I'm starting to feel a little better about all this haha

 

[ctgreddy]

Yeah that's the route I'm going is the dead head. I dont have many options tho as I want to keep the stock rails and my throttle cable bracket is right next to the frps so I cant use that adapter that goes below it for a return.

As for that vacuum hose I believe if you pull down the glove box you can get to that line right in that area.

 

[usmcsvtwannabe]

Yeah that's the route I'm going is the dead head. I dont have many options tho as I want to keep the stock rails and my throttle cable bracket is right next to the frps so I cant use that adapter that goes below it for a return.

As for that vacuum hose I believe if you pull down the glove box you can get to that line right in that area.

Yea Im running FORE rails so I'm hoping I wont have an issue. But the heat benefits alone from using a deadhead setup sounds like it is worth the research.

Thanks for the vacuum location, I'll be able to keep the hobbs switch out of the engine bay haha. Trying to clean up some of that rats nest during this install

 

[cj428mach]

Yea Im running FORE rails so I'm hoping I wont have an issue. But the heat benefits alone from using a deadhead setup sounds like it is worth the research.

Thanks for the vacuum location, I'll be able to keep the hobbs switch out of the engine bay haha. Trying to clean up some of that rats nest during this install

The boost line for the cluster is in the glove box and has a factory plastic coupler connecting 2 lines together. You just remove the coupler and plug a T in its place then you can hook up the hobbs switch with out actually cutting anything.

The dead head makes a world of difference. My fuel filter was almost untouchable after running the standard return setup for any length of time. After the dead head you can actually hold the filter and its much much cooler.

 

[usmcsvtwannabe]

The boost line for the cluster is in the glove box and has a factory plastic coupler connecting 2 lines together. You just remove the coupler and plug a T in its place then you can hook up the hobbs switch with out actually cutting anything.

The dead head makes a world of difference. My fuel filter was almost untouchable after running the standard return setup for any length of time. After the dead head you can actually hold the filter and its much much cooler.

That awesome, I was trying to find a way to mount it safely but also keep the setup clean. The glove box location would be perfect.

I've been talking to Kevin about the deadhead allot and it sounds like the way to go. It doesn't really add all that much effort or plumbing. The temperature benefits sounds well worth it

 

[stradt03]

why don't people run an in-line fuel cooler on the return line if they are so concerned about fuel temps? Serious question.

 

[cj428mach]

why don't people run an in-line fuel cooler on the return line if they are so concerned about fuel temps? Serious question.

I'm not sure its necessary but you could very easily reduce the temperatures of your fuel just by plumbing it different. Malcolmv8 posted that he dropped his fuel temps over 100 degrees just by going deadhead. Sure you could add a cooler if you wanted but why not knock off an easy 100 degrees with a different plumbing setup?

 

[MTBSully]

Is a Hobbs switch and fuel controller required when running two 465 pumps? I am running two 255 pumps constantly with no issues yet.