Reseal and replace Diff Differential cover without dropping IRS/axle
- Thread starter cobrakon
- Start date
I'm having a shop do the race springs and lpw cover and ftbr diff bushings come spring time. Just a bit nervous as my diff doesn't leak now and hoping it won't once new cover is on. I will be bringing them a tube of the Ford TA31 RTV.
Most shops will look to charge you (4) hours for the job; I need mine resealed as well.
so is it possible to replace the diff cover without dropping the pumpkin completely out? no one seems to have a decisive answer to this question. my car is on ramps in the driveway and i cant get the cover off!!
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You would have to removed the front mount to let it move forward far enough, which by that time you might as well pull the axles and just drop it out to make like easy on yourself. I did my LPW cover by taking the diff out and it took about 3 hours.
well it is on ramps and i dont have the pulley tool needed to undo the wheel from the axle
Yes its possible, I was SUPPOSED to do a write -up with pics but... anyway, its a tight fit but yes, yes, yes, and yes again. With the driveshaft unbolted and the bracket in front of it removed, you can push the pumpkin forward just enough. It required an extra set of hands to lift, cradle, and tilt in the direction needed. It takes some fooling with to get it where you need it, no big deal its not too bad.
thread resurection! you ever figure why your diff is leaking or get it fixed?
Stress on the cover itself due to torque. Seems like the cover attaches to the cradle of the IRS for added support. Countless times my cover bolts were loose, it was annoying. Until a member here posted some great advice, Lubelocker gasket best mod for no headaches or leaks. Installed it with lockwashers, loctite and never looked back. Others have used ford rtv with great success. Can't remember the part rtv # hopefully somone will chime in.
I just the super black RTV and has been working awesome! Bone dry
Anyone have a description on how to reseal the irs diff without taking it all apart? It sounds like you can remove the front mount and push it fwd enough to R&R the rear cover.
Mine is leaking and have a new set if diff bushings to install.
Mine is leaking and have a new set if diff bushings to install.
So im in the garage in the process of installing the new ford racing cover, lubelocker gasket and FTB front and rear bushings. Problem im having is getting the rear mount off the IRS cause the diff is still in the way even with it pushed as far forward as possible (Yes the mount is off). Oh ya my cover bolts were all loose also, not too stoked on that. If anyone has any suggestions i would greatly appreciate it!
EDIT: Got it all apart and back together. It is possible to remove and put the stock cover back with the diff in the car. But the Ford Racing cover WILL NOT go back in without pulling the diff out.
EDIT: Got it all apart and back together. It is possible to remove and put the stock cover back with the diff in the car. But the Ford Racing cover WILL NOT go back in without pulling the diff out.
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You really dont need a writeup its really as easy as it looks. Just time consuming and if you have a orange reinforced bracket be ready to travel to the hardware store because most tool sets dont have the size you need (i think its like a 19 or something).
I did this over the course of 2 nights about 4hours total. Things to be mindful of...
-Additive fluid (8$ and yes dont skip it)
- Gear oil
- Measuring cup to make sure you have the proper amount of gear oil + additive
-Clear tubing to attatch to the gear oil tube
-Silicon (dont go cheap get the right stuff) i believe its clear, dont know the brand off the top of my head. Be careful at this step cause many shops like to use black silicon or backdoor methods. Do it right
-Wire brush for a belt sander.
How to do it -
Basically remove the bolts from the top, if i remember i believe the bolts are reverse threaded because its technically backwards. I did mine at midnight so my memory might be a tad off. Make sure to label each bolt u take off for its position. work your way around and toward the middle bolt put a oil pan under it. Work your way to the bottom bolt and by that time the oil should come out if not just twist the cover. Its going to be a mess so i suggest making your gullible buddy to do it while you "Fetch a beer". Once the covers off clean it off and just visually inspect it for any shreds of metal or anything out of the ordinary. Use the wire brush to GENTLY remove the excess sealent left behind. I say this because the new sealent will lay on the old sealent and cause a weak link when the differentials under pressure. If you choose to skip this, have fun doing it over again in about 4 weeks. Moving right along.... After cleaning the cover you then APPLY the sealent. Keep in mind this **** drys QUICK. If you dont believe me put a bead on the cap and put it on the cardboard cover it came in. That should give you the idea of how much of a time window you have. Anyways you put the bead around the cover. I personally but extra so when i sealed the cover it left some extra paper thin sealent on the outside so if i happened to leak again i could see where it came from. Thats just me though. KEEP IN MIND the squeeze to fit the cover is tight so try a few pratice shots at putting it on before u lay the sealent. Once you put the sealent around the cover apply it and put a few bolts hand tight just to align it. Once thats done tighten those suckers up. I dont know the exact torque specs but i did mine pretty **** tight and later down the road i foundout i shook em loose so over tightening them really isnt a issue. You can pretty much fill up the oil like 10min after seating the cover and tightening the screws but i waited like 25min.
PAY ATTENTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The instructions on the sealent states that it will dry in 1 hour BUT cures after 24 HOURS. I gave mine like 30+ hours. If you dont wait the full 24 hours you run the huge RISK of not letting the sealent fully cure and giving your differential a weak link. Dont move your car, start up or anything. Seat the cover, tighten the bolts, wait 20min then put in the fluid, and let the car SIT AS-IS for 24 hours.
Also another pointer you might want to go to home depot and pickup a 1 way squeeze action plastic pump w/ tube. That gear oil is very heavy and just squeezing the bottle will make you sit there for awhile. Put if you dont have that then a clear rubber tube will do.
I did this over the course of 2 nights about 4hours total. Things to be mindful of...
-Additive fluid (8$ and yes dont skip it)
- Gear oil
- Measuring cup to make sure you have the proper amount of gear oil + additive
-Clear tubing to attatch to the gear oil tube
-Silicon (dont go cheap get the right stuff) i believe its clear, dont know the brand off the top of my head. Be careful at this step cause many shops like to use black silicon or backdoor methods. Do it right
-Wire brush for a belt sander.
How to do it -
Basically remove the bolts from the top, if i remember i believe the bolts are reverse threaded because its technically backwards. I did mine at midnight so my memory might be a tad off. Make sure to label each bolt u take off for its position. work your way around and toward the middle bolt put a oil pan under it. Work your way to the bottom bolt and by that time the oil should come out if not just twist the cover. Its going to be a mess so i suggest making your gullible buddy to do it while you "Fetch a beer". Once the covers off clean it off and just visually inspect it for any shreds of metal or anything out of the ordinary. Use the wire brush to GENTLY remove the excess sealent left behind. I say this because the new sealent will lay on the old sealent and cause a weak link when the differentials under pressure. If you choose to skip this, have fun doing it over again in about 4 weeks. Moving right along.... After cleaning the cover you then APPLY the sealent. Keep in mind this **** drys QUICK. If you dont believe me put a bead on the cap and put it on the cardboard cover it came in. That should give you the idea of how much of a time window you have. Anyways you put the bead around the cover. I personally but extra so when i sealed the cover it left some extra paper thin sealent on the outside so if i happened to leak again i could see where it came from. Thats just me though. KEEP IN MIND the squeeze to fit the cover is tight so try a few pratice shots at putting it on before u lay the sealent. Once you put the sealent around the cover apply it and put a few bolts hand tight just to align it. Once thats done tighten those suckers up. I dont know the exact torque specs but i did mine pretty **** tight and later down the road i foundout i shook em loose so over tightening them really isnt a issue. You can pretty much fill up the oil like 10min after seating the cover and tightening the screws but i waited like 25min.
PAY ATTENTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The instructions on the sealent states that it will dry in 1 hour BUT cures after 24 HOURS. I gave mine like 30+ hours. If you dont wait the full 24 hours you run the huge RISK of not letting the sealent fully cure and giving your differential a weak link. Dont move your car, start up or anything. Seat the cover, tighten the bolts, wait 20min then put in the fluid, and let the car SIT AS-IS for 24 hours.
Also another pointer you might want to go to home depot and pickup a 1 way squeeze action plastic pump w/ tube. That gear oil is very heavy and just squeezing the bottle will make you sit there for awhile. Put if you dont have that then a clear rubber tube will do.
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One other question... ive looked online and i find actual gaskets for my rear diff cover... why do people use RTV rather than the regular gaskets?
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