Removing Lower Pulley

[jforest]

Let me first state that I have searched and read multiple threads on this topic but I need some advice.

I've tried the floor jack method. I've tried hitting the spoke of the pulley with a steel rod/hammer and the pulley spun but did not loosen the threads.

I just broke my 2nd 1/2" drive breaker bar by using a 4' bar on the breaker bar from the top. So I'm thinking I need to step up to a 3/4" breaker bar but I have not found a 14mm socket for the hex bit I have (Got the bit from a socket that broke).

The only options that I think I have is buy a metco 14mm bit that has a 19mm hex on the other side of it or getting a 3/4" hex bit but it is $35.

I've considered putting my 1/2" drive ratchet on the hex bit and hitting it with a hammer to maybe loosen it but I'm not sure if it'd work.

Any advice would be much appreciated! I want to get it back on the road as soon as I can!

 

[Blackedout]

What side of the crank did you have the jack on ???? I used a 3/4 breaker bar after breaking a 1/2 one...

 

[jforest]

I had it on the passenger side. I've been trying to go to the right since it is left hand threaded (read that many times on multiple threads lol)

 

[jforest]

What did you use for the hex key with the 3/4" breaker bar?

Did you use the jack method to break it free?

 

[03SonicVert]

This is how I did mine:
Placed in reverse with e-brake on as far as I could pull it up.

I wanted to use the floor jack method but there was just too too much sponginess in the drivetrain. If you had the flywheel tool that goes on the fw with the starter removed then the floor jack method should work great.

Anyway you're rotating the Allen socket clockwise as if you are tightening a normal fastner.
I put my 1/2" breaker bar with 14 mm Allen onto the pulley with the handle pointing to the ten o'clock position or so.
I then put a 5 foot cast iron pipe on the breaker bar and rotated the assembly clockwise.

I had a towel wrapped around the snout of the blower.
With almost all my strength I rotated the assembly clockwise until I could tuck the extension pipe on the breaker bar behind the blower snout/pulley.
I then took a long piece of steel and placed it on the spoke of the crank pulley at about 3 o'clock and smacked it as hard downward/CCW as I could with a hammer.

This caused the breaker bar/pipe extension to dislodge and spin dangerously counter clockwise. I should have used a tie down strap, or other person or similar to keep the pipe behind the blower snout.

The smack of the hammer caused the pulley to break loose but the breaker bar/pipe extension dislodging and whipping counter clockwise was dangerous and could have injured me or damaged components. Luckily neither happened and the pulley came off.

I only had myself to rely on and I don't have a compressor.

Take it for want its worth but it did work with me being solo.

Depending on humidity, proximity to salt air/beach, if you detail/wash the engine, northern/salt belt state driving, can really bond the components. They can be tough. Take your time, be safe, use fender covers, comforters, pillows, etc to protect everything.

You could always try to get penetrating oil in there too but the impact force is what breaks the bond.

SV

 

[03SonicVert]

I bought the 14mm hex key 1/2" no name socket off ebay for somewhere around $7. My breaker bar was a standard 1/2 Snap-On.

SV

 

[Blackedout]

I had it on the passenger side. I've been trying to go to the right since it is left hand threaded (read that many times on multiple threads lol)

Just making sure with the reverse thread ... I took the 1/2" drive 14mm and welded it to a 1/2 x 3/4 adpt

 

[JuStAkId]

This is what I used. What I did was put the tension on it with the jack then hit it with a hammer (like an impact gun). If you try this just make sure you are out of the way incase something brakes. I tried to just put steady pressure on it but that did not work (broke a 1/2'' breaker bar)

 

[01Jes]

Propane torch?

Along with all the other ideas

 

[UncleSAm]

Jack method here, but I did notice that the jack stands have to be on the lowest setting, I had it one before lowest and it wouldn't work

 

[jforest]

This is what I used. What I did was put the tension on it with the jack then hit it with a hammer (like an impact gun). If you try this just make sure you are out of the way incase something brakes. I tried to just put steady pressure on it but that did not work (broke a 1/2'' breaker bar)

http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/Matthew1394/media/IMG_20130806_145938_039_zps0f3a8a7b.jpg.html

Did you use the allen wrench and jack then hit a spoke of the pulley with the hammer? I was thinking of trying the allen wrench before I spent the money to buy a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a hex key socket.

Thank you everyone for your responses! I certainly appreciate it! :beer:

 

[hotcobra03]

I go from bottom..

In 6th

Pb on

Bar in driveshaft trans yoke to hold..

2 inch long 9/16 allen..filed to fit tight

1/2 breaker bar

I sit on ground and use leg to push .

Hold on to sway bar..

 

[JuStAkId]

Did you use the allen wrench and jack then hit a spoke of the pulley with the hammer? I was thinking of trying the allen wrench before I spent the money to buy a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a hex key socket.

Thank you everyone for your responses! I certainly appreciate it! :beer:

Used the allen wrench then put the pipe to give me leverage then put a good amount of pressure/ tension on it and used a sludge and hit the allen wrench/pipe right by the lower pulley.

 

[cj428mach]

I replaced the inner belt on my old car and this is how I did it.

I have a lift so I put the car on the lift with it in gear and parking brake set. Then I put my breakover on the pulley and pulled on it with about a 6 foot cheater pipe and wasn't getting it (also since I'm on a lift I was able to really get into it). I then had my dad put pressure on it and I hit the bar with a hammer, no luck. I then tried an air chisel with a hammer head attachment in it. I tried hitting the spokes while my dad put pressure on it but all that did was put a mark on the pulley spoke. Finally my dad suggested I put the air hammer directly on the head of the ratch while he put pressure on it. The lower immediately popped loose.


Vibration can really knock loose seized parts.

 

[2fst4urtrk]

i broke 3 socket allen wrench's and 2 allen wrench's, with breaker bars, and tried air tools and electric tools nothing worked....finally just disassembled the lower pully and left the threaded center section on and went to LFP lower pulley. good luck if you have alot of time use some liquid wrench or something along those lines.

 

[98SaleenSnake]

Spray some penetrating oil on the damn bolts. You're going to break your hand or the motor work smarter not harder.

 

[jforest]

I've sprayed PB blaster on it already but I will do it again before I try it again. I always try to work smarter not harder haha.

 

[03' White Snake]

I pulled the rad tank and power steering to gain access, held my hood straight up. Then went from the top, standing on the core support and using a 4 foot pipe. I received a Allen tool that fit a larger socket with my LFP kit. I had my brother there to catch the pipe when it broke free so I was not to smash my fenders. It literally goes from one fender to the other before it broke free. My car only had about 12k on it when I installed my lower.

 

[hotcobra03]

I can say..installed hand tight..and start engine and try again..that thing is just as tight as 1st time..

Proper tool holds flywheel tight..with out it its like trying to break a lug nut with a 5ft extention between bar and socket ..

 

[jforest]

The lower pulley finally broke free today. The hex fitting on the pulley actually stripped out so I went to Autozone and bought a 9/16" hex bit and had to hammer it in but with one last pull on it with a 1/2" drive ratchet and 4' breaker bar I was able to break it free. I replaced it with another caged pulley setup I bought from a member on the site. Now it is back up and running. Now to get a tune..