relo brackets

[Going for broke]

Stock LCA's won't work with FRPP brackets. I suspect they won't work with most if any.

Spohn worked just fine with stock LCA.
I don't think they would of worked in the hole closest to the stock location but the bottom two holes will work just fine.

 

[Ill_W1N]

Are the relocation brackets really going to be necessary for me... I just ordered from Hypermotive Performance as well.. great experience. Here's what I ordered:

- Hotchkis lowering springs
- Steeda HD strut mounts
- Koni's Yellow shocks/struts
- Whiteline panhard bar & brace
- Whiteline adjustable LCA's

What's your plans for the car? There's been a few people lately who have twisted their axles tubes at the track because of wheel hop with no relo brackets. It's a good idea. I just had AED install and weld mine in, along with my axle tubes.

 

[Ron Mexico]

are they necessary? no. do they improve launching and cornering? I'd say yes.

 

[Wicked5.O]

What's your plans for the car? There's been a few people lately who have twisted their axles tubes at the track because of wheel hop with no relo brackets. It's a good idea. I just had AED install and weld mine in, along with my axle tubes.

are they necessary? no. do they improve launching and cornering? I'd say yes.

My cars a DD that is not going to see any track time.. also like to take it on twisty drives on the weekends.. Just want a great handling street car. No hard launching.

 

[TheVikingRL]

What's your plans for the car? There's been a few people lately who have twisted their axles tubes at the track because of wheel hop with no relo brackets. It's a good idea. I just had AED install and weld mine in, along with my axle tubes.

I've seen convincing arguments that adding reloc brackets might actually increase the chance of twisting an axle due to moving the leverage point out and increasing the force on the axle. I've also read some convincing info (chassis fabricators) that it's actually better to run an additional plug or bolt(s) through the axle housing opposed to just welding the tubes. This is what was posted:

The bolts are Grade 8 and they are put in direct shear with the tubes. It takes an enormous amount of pressure to strip these in direct shear.

In contrast you can weld the tubes and put this thing in the jig and i can put less than 30 psi of pressure on it and snap the welds. AND yes it doesnt matter how nicely the weld is done it will snap because the cast is just that weak, and weaker when you melt it and reform it in a weld.

Its hard to tell racers this because you get the " well so and so runs 5s with his welded and he has no problems." Its the factory pins holding the car. The weld holds absolutely nothing. I have seen countless welded tubes in the jig and have yet to get one straight without breaking the welds. Welding presents a few other problems as well, if not completely done right and its difficult, you can melt the seals where the tubes slide in and cause leaking by the tubes(seen it), also it pulls the axle and its no longer straight(seen some examples of this and wonder how the car ever went straight down track). IF we weld the tubes we cant weld them and then straighten, because it will break the cast pumpkin. IT has to be welded in the jig and straighten as you go to get it right, its a very time consuming process and its pointless. If the pined tubes wont work you have a 3 second capable 1/4 mile car that needs a 9 inch housing at that point.

 

[Fun4me]

My cars a DD that is not going to see any track time.. also like to take it on twisty drives on the weekends.. Just want a great handling street car. No hard launching.

Get relos, but not the whiteline ones. Get something with more adjustment capability, i.e BMR, Steeda, etc. You really want the lca's level rather than pointing down for corner carving. The whiteline with their one adjustment hole will probably be too aggresive.

 

[five0three]

from 60-80 mph had a very, very bad gear whine.

Had you properly set your pinion angle with the adjustable UCA?