I have a 2004 cobra vert with a whipple on it and was trying to dress up the engine bay. So I, bought some black wrinkle covers to get installed. Low and behold who ever installed the whipple used red loc tite on all the bolts! Wtf! And suggestions to get these to break free besides heat? Mechanics been trying heat and still no luck.
Red loc tite....help?
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Call Lock Tite. They may have a solution for you. Don't snap those bolts you will have a bigger nightmare on your hands.
Maybe more heat for longer time, at least according to this:
How to Disassemble Loctite® Red High Strength Threadlocker - YouTube
How to Disassemble Loctite® Red High Strength Threadlocker - YouTube
He will need to be very careful applying local heat so close to the cam bearing saddles which could warp the heads (if he throws off his linebore the heads are finished!). Putting to torch to the stanchions the heat will get soaked-up by the aluminum to the surrounding area where he will need to keep applying heat until the head saturates. Removing the head so it's not restrained by the block may make the process safer.
Not sure what the OP was thinking installing any lock tite on the valve cover screws. Than again I can think of dumber thing I have done.
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Heat is the only way to break the bolt free if LocTite Red was used to seal it. The LocTite Red package states " It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°".
And here is info direct from LocTite.
"Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface."
And here is info direct from LocTite.
"Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface."
Every mechanic on Earth even the best one's has done stupid things and will continue to do so. You tend to learn more from your mistakes than you do from successes.
If you can get heat to just the screw like from a soldering iron or a pencil torch and avoid heating the aluminum that would be a safer approach. While it's hot try to wiggle it back and forth with a 6 pt socket on a ratchet. If you strip the threads you can get it heli-coiled which is better than snapping it off in the head.
All previous poster are correct about using heat.
Depending on the size of the bolt, it's location (what's around it) will determine what kind of heat to use.
In tight spots I use a 150 watt soldering iron in contact with the bolt head.
If there is more room I use a propane torch.
The toughest bolt on a Cobra is the big allen bolt in the pulley assembly on the crank. But a torch made fast work of it.
Depending on the size of the bolt, it's location (what's around it) will determine what kind of heat to use.
In tight spots I use a 150 watt soldering iron in contact with the bolt head.
If there is more room I use a propane torch.
The toughest bolt on a Cobra is the big allen bolt in the pulley assembly on the crank. But a torch made fast work of it.
Heat will release the red!"USE BLUE NEXT TIME!"
You could try the mini-ductor induction heater, no flames to damage your engine. We are supposed to use this when pulling the cabs on F-250's, ford coats the bolts in blue lock-tite and is a pain to get them out.
what did you do?
i was going to suggest just go for it...it might just be like that 1 spark plug thats tight as hell
i was going to suggest just go for it...it might just be like that 1 spark plug thats tight as hell
Ended up taking the whole whipple and intake off...good thing though lower intake gasket on passenger side was kinda trashed! Something I thought was gonna be a small task(change valve covers) became a big job!
Good ole case of Murphy's law in action right there.
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