Red/blk fuel pump wire looks burnt???

mr.magic

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So I've been having A LOT of trouble out of my car lately and in digging thru the fuel system I found a Red/blk stripe wire on the pumps that looks like it's burnt on the ends. It has gotten so hot that the connectors are bronze when originally silver and the ends of the plastic covering the wire has some minor melting. I'm going out on a limb here and saying that aint normal.

Fuel system - Twin GT500 pumps, upgraded FPDM, Lethalperformance wire upgrade, 60# Injectors
 

TRBO VNM

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I assume stock hat? Do you mean Ford Gt pumps or really the gt500 pumps? I know the ford gt pumps can cause that and I have seen it a lot and never recommend stock hat with the ford gt pumps. I haven't tested it, but from what I see, it appears the gt pumps probably draw too much and overheat the wires and what you see proves that.
 

mr.magic

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Criminy yeah I meant GT pumps and yes stock hat. I actually had to clip the center connection and attach a new female terminal due to half the wires being broken(assuming from time and heat) it just looked like a barrel of f**k blew up all over that section. So are there any fixes for this possible problem with keeping the stock hat say increasing the wire diameter throughout the entire system. Also if I did that shouldn't it drop the duty cycle by a significant amount?
 
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Blueline

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You can upgrade the wiring in the stock hat, guys have done it. Why not just save up and get a real hat? It will give you room to grow and upgraded wiring and feed size. Just my opinion. But, if your set on keeping the stock hat, there have been guys who upgrade the wiring.
 

mr.magic

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Yeah I plan on keeping the stock hat I don't see a need for adding any more power/fuel.

So do I need to upgrade everything from the FPDM to the pumps or just the pump wiring?
 

cbarile

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Yeah I plan on keeping the stock hat I don't see a need for adding any more power/fuel.

So do I need to upgrade everything from the FPDM to the pumps or just the pump wiring?

I did mine today from fpdm wire all the way to pumps. I do have the new division x hat so I did not have to rewire the hat.
 

SlowSVT

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Warm (burnt) wires means you need larger guage wire to carry the amperage. Your pumps are not getting the 12V they need to maintain enough pressure. Not good and could cost you an engine. Big wire equals less voltage drop. I would run 10 -12 AWG. A set of nice fat pin connectors wouldn't hurt as well as opposed to the crappy factory fast-on blade contacts (you will need to run this all the way to the power source). The problem is the wires in the factory hat are potted and can't be replaced safely. An aftermarket hat is in your future.

Fuel pump wiring: Go "BIG"
 

TRBO VNM

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Warm (burnt) wires means you need larger guage wire to carry the amperage. Your pumps are not getting the 12V they need to maintain enough pressure. Not good and could cost you an engine. Big wire equals less voltage drop. I would run 10 -12 AWG. A set of nice fat pin connectors wouldn't hurt as well as opposed to the crappy factory fast-on blade contacts (you will need to run this all the way to the power source). The problem is the wires in the factory hat are potted and can't be replaced safely. An aftermarket hat is in your future.

Fuel pump wiring: Go "BIG"

Exactly and not only is it a motor risk...it is a possible life risk. The wires are getting hot enough to do that...in FUEL.

I have not see a full proof solution for running new wires into the stock hat and maintain a seal.

OP, do it right. Get an aftermarket hat. They are quality and done right and no risk of losing the car or a life.
 

mr.magic

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Thanks guys! Just gonna bitch for a min and say this is easily the most frustrating car I've owned. It's been 1 expensive discovery after another with this car and after these last few mths and findings its time for a change.
 

SlowSVT

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Thanks guys! Just gonna bitch for a min and say this is easily the most frustrating car I've owned. It's been 1 expensive discovery after another with this car and after these last few mths and findings its time for a change.

Don't blame the car. If it was left stock you would have no problems with it with the possible exception of the clutch and input shaft. People start messing with it and don't do the proper supporting mods and push the stock components way beyond their capacity. Once they stress the OEM system to the point of failure their ripping out the system and end up doing it all over again at a greater expense. Do it once, do it right and add a dash of "overkill" to give you a safety margin.
 

mr.magic

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Don't blame the car. If it was left stock you would have no problems with it with the possible exception of the clutch and input shaft. People start messing with it and don't do the proper supporting mods and push the stock components way beyond their capacity. Once they stress the OEM system to the point of failure their ripping out the system and end up doing it all over again at a greater expense. Do it once, do it right and add a dash of "overkill" to give you a safety margin.


That has been my approach to modding every vehicle I've owned. Hell I spent damn near 20K on my last car before thinking about adding any serious power. Of course I picked up a few ponies but it was all making sure I had a good safety barrier. With this car its just been one thing after another for me. This cobra already has a good 30K just in mods and right now I could spend another 20K easy before getting this thing to finally roll out and be friendly. Just frustrated right now I guess with all the money being spent for a car to sit on jack stands. Matter of fact a buddy of mine with a terminator and and few others one also with a termi were just making jokes about how are cars are always on jacks.
 

SlowSVT

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That has been my approach to modding every vehicle I've owned. Hell I spent damn near 20K on my last car before thinking about adding any serious power. Of course I picked up a few ponies but it was all making sure I had a good safety barrier. With this car its just been one thing after another for me. This cobra already has a good 30K just in mods and right now I could spend another 20K easy before getting this thing to finally roll out and be friendly. Just frustrated right now I guess with all the money being spent for a car to sit on jack stands. Matter of fact a buddy of mine with a terminator and and few others one also with a termi were just making jokes about how are cars are always on jacks.

I understand what you’re going through.

Most people take for granted the level of power these cars are capable of (no one 10 years ago would ever imaging a Mustang with a 20 year old turning wrenches could scare a Porsche). Everything has to be in sync and up to snuff or it will make you pay dearly. This is not unique to the Mustang. Just about any car with a blower putting down big power will be demanding. This is not a sport for people who are impatient or who gets frustrated easily

Still, there is no other car made I would prefer over a Terminator. For me the entire package is almost "perfect" but certainly not without its faults. When I mod a car I pay close attention to detail. When frustrated, walk away for a while and give yourself a break. I actually enjoy the working on the car and thinking things out. Lay out a plan to address your wiring situation. There are a lot of smart people on this site who can help. Part of my job has me designing wiring harnesses and I as well as others can be a great resource for helping you work things out. I can direct you to industrial grade components that are much higher in quality then you typically get from the aftermarket.

You running a return or a returnless system? I highly recommend a return system which is actually simpler and more reliable.

Russ :beer:
 

mr.magic

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Damn that's about the most encouraging bit of info I've received. Currently I'm returnless and it will most likely stay that way for a while. Not by my choice but the old battle axe is well more than pissed about all the money going into it. Thats actually the reason I have this car is she was way past done so she had me sell the other car for one that I thought was in great shape and required no work. That was $10K ago LOL.

As for rewiring the pumps below the hat I don't see a way to redo it correctly and securely at the moment. However ive got nothing but time right now to figure it out as the car won't be needing a fuel pump for a couple weeks lol.
 

TRBO VNM

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Honestly, I can't see how a car can have 30k into it and another 20k before it can be rolled out and friendly. Something isn't right with that situation and someone is doing something wrong or there were serious problems and the car never should have been purchased. Damn, give me 50k just to mod a car and wow, the build would be amazing.

OP, if you want a sure fire, be done with the fuel system setup...

DivisionX fuel hat
Dual FPDM setup with dual fpdm harness and 8 gauge wire upgrade
-8an fuel line upgrade with a 10 micron inline filter
You can keep the stock rails, they support 800+ rwhp.
Injectors based on power, 60's are typically good for most builds.
Then you have your gt pumps already.

That will be the correct way to build your returnless system. You will have the gt pumps that will support over 700rwhp and they will be setup correctly with dual fpdm's.

The fuel line upgrade will help eliminate fuel pressure spikes and any risk of popping the FRPS. It will also decrease your fuel pump duty cycle, as would the wire upgrade.

You already have some of the parts. The cost should not be crazy to finish.
 

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