Recently installed WB and boost gauge, host of problems.

trueblue03gt

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Good evening to all y'all,
Just finished up the install on the wideband for my newly Vorteched '03 GT, to finish up the tuning. I'm getting the car tuned by LaSota, but I wanted to come on here to try and eliminate some of these issues. Just for context, the car was exhaust leak tested and smoke tested by me before the wideband, although I should double check again. The spark plugs are gapped at ~0.30", with one step colder than stock. It has a Vortech V1 SC with a CXRacing intercooler and BOV, on an HPX blow-thru slot-style MAF, and termi injectors.

Theres a funky smell, but I think it might be the left over soldering smell, but I'm gonna double-check tomorrow to make sure it isn't electrical fire, although I didn't see anything funky. I'll try and check the grounding again.

When I first fired up the car, the car reads a stable ~22 inHg (which is good I assume) but the AFR gauge is off the f***ing wall. Like, bouncing from low 13s to high 15s. Don't know what kind of issue that is.

That is the first issue, then the SCT X4 isn't reading the voltage off of the gauge thru analog, do I wire the Firewire red to the AEM white, then the firewire blue or green to the AEM brown? I wired the blue to the brown, but I assume that's incorrect, as the voltage wasn't reading with the AEM gauge, but I still need to set up the function.

During the test drive, the boost gauge wouldn't pop above 2 PSI, but the car also wasn't pushed very hard due to my worry about the AFR. When I would step on it to try and get into open mode, the car didn't really seem to richen, maybe to like 13.00 or so, which is dangerously lean. I'm not sure how long the wideband should take to get down to where it should be, but I didn't want to fully lay into it in case of an issue. The second I'd let off, the AFR gauge would richen, like 12-10 AFR, then it would slowly climb up, until it got so lean that the gauge would give me the ---- (greater than 20 AFR). I'm pretty sure this is normal on decel, but I'm not sure.

The hot idle also has issues; once I got home after the test drive, the car will read 14.00 to 14.80 or so, and it'll stay in that zone, but every once and a while it'll jump to like 17 or basically super lean, idle will sound funny, then it'll return. The idle has always done that before the blower, but I'm not sure how to fix that, as I assumed it wasn't an issue and didn't have my hand on an AFR gauge.

hot idle
hot cruising (not sure if its problematic or not)

All in all, I'd like to have some input on what I can do moving forward, and what is an issue and what isn't. This is the first time I've done something like this to my car, and I want to be absolutely as careful as possible. I'd like to figure out as many issues as possible before I get back in there to fix the others, as time seems to be at a premium for me lately. I also attached the data logs of the car before and after the wideband install.
 

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MG0h3

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your WB reading description doesn’t sound that far off.

It’ll never just sit in one spot.

You’ll always get rich/lean spikes for a moment at tip in/initial decel.

Data logging will tell everything.

I’d just start the tuning process.


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2003RedfireVert

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WB reading seems fine. They react pretty quickly so the tune is probably off which is fine. Do you have a base tune?

Also, this is just my stupid opinion but I would recommend getting used to viewing the wideband guage and any wideband values in lambda.

Stupid question, did you calibrate the wideband per manufactures instructions? I assume you did….
 

03cobra#2

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What you are expierencing sound normal. I would make sure your short term fuel trims match pretty good bank to bank and let Don start tuning the car.

Are you investing in a SCT Pro Racer package? If you are make sure sct give you the full permission of the software (using it as a track car, R&D purposes ect) so you can turn off engine codes ect. When Don tunes make sure he is sending you the file in MTF format so you can make your own changes and tweaks using SCT as you learn the software and how to tune. Also you'll want to order his tuning book, it's got some great info in there.
 

trueblue03gt

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your WB reading description doesn’t sound that far off.

It’ll never just sit in one spot.

You’ll always get rich/lean spikes for a moment at tip in/initial decel.

Data logging will tell everything.

I’d just start the tuning process.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Alright, that’s comforting to hear. I’m very worried about the boost (hopefully the 2# was only cause I didn’t lay into it, and the idle where it spikes to 16.00 AFR.
WB reading seems fine. They react pretty quickly so the tune is probably off which is fine. Do you have a base tune?

Also, this is just my stupid opinion but I would recommend getting used to viewing the wideband guage and any wideband values in lambda.

Stupid question, did you calibrate the wideband per manufactures instructions? I assume you did….
I do have a base tune, but the car is not fully tuned. I can test out lambda mode. The wideband should be in resistor trim calibration mode, but I can double check.
What you are expierencing sound normal. I would make sure your short term fuel trims match pretty good bank to bank and let Don start tuning the car.

Are you investing in a SCT Pro Racer package? If you are make sure sct give you the full permission of the software (using it as a track car, R&D purposes ect) so you can turn off engine codes ect. When Don tunes make sure he is sending you the file in MTF format so you can make your own changes and tweaks using SCT as you learn the software and how to tune. Also you'll want to order his tuning book, it's got some great info in there.
Alright. Once I sort out my analog input issue, I’ll have Don take a look. I was planning on tuning it myself later, right now I just want the car to run.
 

gimmie11s

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A centri blower does not build boost immediately -- it takes RPM and a WOT condition to see your blower build boost. You won't see peak boost that your pulley is supposed to give until redline with wide open throttle.

Like the others mentioned, AFR readings don't seem very far out of whack. At idle, it should bounce between 14 and 15. Stoich on gasoline is 14.7:1 which target idle AFR is usually set somewhere around that number.

Deceleration (throttle plate closed) you will see the ---- on the AFR gauge because there should be no fuel (only air) passing the Wideband sensor in your exhaust because the fuel injectors are shut off during decal.
 

trueblue03gt

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A centri blower does not build boost immediately -- it takes RPM and a WOT condition to see your blower build boost. You won't see peak boost that your pulley is supposed to give until redline with wide open throttle.

Like the others mentioned, AFR readings don't seem very far out of whack. At idle, it should bounce between 14 and 15. Stoich on gasoline is 14.7:1 which target idle AFR is usually set somewhere around that number.

Deceleration (throttle plate closed) you will see the ---- on the AFR gauge because there should be no fuel (only air) in passing the Wideband sensor in your exhaust because the fuel injectors are shut off during decal.
Alright, good to know. I’ll really lay into it next time and make sure it goes well.
 

gimmie11s

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Alright, good to know. I’ll really lay into it next time and make sure it goes well.

I would go wide open throttle, to about 4500 or 5k rpm... watch your AFR gauge. Once you hammer it and rpms pass 3500, your AFR should start to lower -- ideally under 12... mid 11s would be ideal, but I don't know what your tuner is going after, who your tuner is, what boost you are pullied for, or what fuel you are using.

If you get to 4k rpm and you still see 13:1 AFR, I would get out of it.
 

Boost or Bust

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The one video you put up showing the car go lean at idle, mine does the same but the car will actually stutter. Did they sort that out? I still have the problem and can’t figure it out. Vac is good etc.
 

trueblue03gt

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The one video you put up showing the car go lean at idle, mine does the same but the car will actually stutter. Did they sort that out? I still have the problem and can’t figure it out. Vac is good etc.
Yeah. They added fuel at idle I'm pretty sure. Not 100% sure. It still does it, just not as bad. I also added an IAC Restrictor.
 

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