Rebuilding Motor... Need Advice!!!

sbird1

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Ok folks, I hydro-locked my motor a couple months ago and am now in the process of a new motor build/rebuild. I bought a new block and B-heads along with JE forged pistons (.020 over) and Manley forged H-beam rods (stock stroke). I'm going to get the crank checked out too. I just need to know a few things:

1. When I bore the block, do I need to resleeve or is it going to be good to go?

2. Where can I get a full engine gasket set for a decent price? I need pretty much every gasket.

3. Should I get new head bolts or can/should I reuse the ones I pulled out? The motor had 135,000 on it.

4. What else do I need to get checked out? I know the new heads are good, and I think the ones off my old motor are good too... I guess I need to get those checked out too.

5. Anyone have any advice on anything else?

The are no immediate plans for boost or nitrous. I want to get this motor running, but I need some advice. Thanks for any input.
 

Erich

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You can bore 0.020 over no problem
Get the headgasket changing kit-it includes gaskets and new torque to yield bolts for about 100 bucks
You could get some minor stuff done to the heads like bowl blending and straightening out the radii to the valve. Cheap and improves flow alot. I paid like 150 bucks for that. Improved flow signifigantly.
Erich
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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Get APR head and main studs.. and APR rod bolts.. BTW you should get either stock or 9.1 compression pistons..
 

sbird1

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The ARP studs I know are good (I had them on my last car) but they are pricey. I may go that route. Why are the main bolts important to get? I would think stock bolts clamp well enough...
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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Just extra security, what if one day u decide to put TT on there.. You're already tearing the block apart whats another 1-200 bucks??
 

sbird1

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Ok, so what about gaskets and seals? I've checked a bunch of places, but no one seems to have a "one stop shop" kind of thing. The main things I need are the mains, valve covers, timing cover, head gaskets, and a few others. Does anyone sell like "complete engine gasket set" for these 4.6 DOHC motors?
 

uofipilot

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Toasty -He said he bought a new block, so it shouldn't be anywhere near out of spec after a .020 bore. But I know what you mean, and that's definitely good advice for a rebuild using a stock block.

And to the OP, why the hell did you buy a new block? The aluminum block in your car was probably better than whatever you bought (unless it was torn up during the hydro lock?).
 
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sbird1

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Only a teardown and inspection will tell you for sure if you can go .020 over.

DO NOT BUY ANY PARTS (especially pistons) UNTIL YOU DO A TEARDOWN AND HAVE YOUR MACHINIST CHECK THE BORES.

During hydro-lock, I broke a rod and punched 2 holes in the block and the rod jammed itself into the top of the block. I bought a new Teksid, undamaged block to use. Thanks for the advice though.
 

na svt

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Studs are not needed, even for 600-700rwhp engines. Studs are a good investment if you plan to remove teh heads or tear down the engine a lot, otherwise, stick with the stock bolts...seriously. If you plan to build the engine yourself buy yourself a good mod motor book. There are a few out there and they will tell you what you do an do not need.

Check with MMR on a complete gasket and bolt kit.
 
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na svt

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[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-5-4-Liter-Engines-Design-Workbench/dp/1932494804/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1247948197&sr=1-1]Amazon.com: How to Rebuild 4.6-/5.4-Liter Ford Engines (S-a Design, Workbench Series): George Reid: Books[/ame]

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sbird1

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I need some advice on bearings too here fellas. I've been looking into ACL part #BC4400, but they are mighty pricey ($250). What are some other quality bearings that would go nicely in this motor?
 

cobravette

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Dont skimp on block work. It's worth every penny. Check out Tousley ford in the sticky on the top of the forums, you just can't find factory parts cheaper. I just bought a factory Cobra oil pump & pick-up, complete up-dated timeing kit, & all gaskets(except head gaskets) needed to re-build the engine for less than $400 from them. I also bought a set of used ported heads with comp valve springs & retainers that flow 280 on the intake for $400. Deals are out there, just shop around & dont rush things. If you're going to re-use the factory crank, let your machine shop supply the rod & main bearings in case they have to machine the crank any.
 
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sbird1

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I already bought rods, I just need to know what kind of bearing are best for the price. What's the best bargain on the market in terms of bearings? I want something that is going to last and be better than stock in terms of performance (although I have never spun a bearing or anything). Let me know what I should use!!!
 

CleanNGreen96

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Your local Autozone carries "Clevite" brand bearings. Probably one of the cheapest, but yet top quality set's you can buy. Seen plenty of guy's use them in their high HP/Comp. pushrod motors flawlessly.
 

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