Rebuild thoughts

[one5oh2nv]

Hey guys had an issue with #7 cyl. keeps oil fouling plugs Just pulled engine last night so havent started tear down. Car went lean on 2 pulls and detonated and is now smoking like a train. So Im trying to figure out options. Were thinking either rings or a piston issue. If piston issue would it be fine to just replace the one piston and keep on going or should I swap out to say a set of new pistons in all 8?? I know one is much cheaper than the other but just trying to figure out my options.


Also what else should I look at replacing since the engine is out and being torn apart?? Has only 36k miles on it!

 

[Oiljunkie]

It's worth your while to do all 8 at this time.
Upgrade hardware and wrist pins are minimums to any build in my books on any boosted engine.
Valve seats tend to cause issues with these cars. When I did my engine I also upgraded valve springs and got adjustable cam gears but that's big money that isn't necessary

 

[broke7]

These would be on my "to do" list....and I'm on engine #3. One was the stock, two was a used shortblock I got screwed on with a cracked piston, 3rd was an MMR shortblock, wont go there.... I built my own this time.


Pistons 9:1 is a good middle road for boost, and octane choice
Headstuds ARP 2000 preferred
Felpro 1141 L/R headgaskets, high performance version of stockers
Stock rods, crank are good for 99% of people even at serious power
ARP Main studs
Stock rod bolts are ARP 8740 material, one step below 2000, I run my stockers in my 800HP setup, no issues.
You can reuse bearing, but that isnt my style, so go new.


If you can find a teksid, or WAP block this is the time to do it!! quick 70-85lbs weight savings. This will change some small things like bearing choice, and hardware, but otherwise its a 100% swap.

Mine had seen a rough life, so I choice to install a whole new timing set from FRPP, excellent value for what you get. Gears, chains, bolts, tensioners, the works, ford did an amazing job.


On to improvements that Ford fell short on...

Stock main tensioners are plastic unless its a reman motor, upgrade to early 4v Cobra metals, direct bolt on

Upgrade oil pump, either a stock pump with TSS gears, or Melling Pump, I run a melling with no issues


There are a multitude of crank snout related failures if you choose to go bigger blower down the road, I chose to stud my crank with a 9/16th crank stud, I use a Metco lower on mine.


Have the heads gone over for good measure. If you ever planned on cams this is a good time to do them. I would suggest as a budget combo picking up a set of 96-98 Cobra intake cams, even the 99/01's were feisty, proven 15-20HP and straight drop in, no spring or retainer upgrade. If you decide to upgrade springs try to find the Tooley Racing springs, you can use stock retainers with them.



Good Luck, keep us posted.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Felpro 1141 L/R headgaskets, high performance version of stockers

Actually just the opposite. The 1141 L/R are the blue version of the gaskets. They have a thin rubber coating on them and are rated for less HP. Their main purpose is that they will seal on a surface milled as rough as 60 Ra I think it was. The smooth black OEM gaskets, part # 26222PT (right), 26187PT (left) require a surface finish of 20 Ra or smoother as I recall but will hold more power.

With that said I've seen people report over 1000 whp on the blue 1141 gaskets. I called Felpro for exact numbers and they won't say. All they will say is the 1141 holds less than the 26xxx gaskets but no guidelines as to what those HP numbers are.

 

[jrgoffin]

Go with custom pistons if you are tearing it all apart. The nicest ones out there are billet, made by Gibtec and designed by Ed Schaider at ModFords. I was the first customer and went 9:1 and put them in an Aluminator block (a better block than the Teksid or standard WAP).

Here's the build thread with lots of upgrades:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/236857-Aluminator-Gibtec-build

FYI, here's a bunch of info on the heads and blocks:

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/castings.htm

 

[MalcolmV8]

Go with custom pistons if you are tearing it all apart. The nicest ones out there are billet, made by Gibtec and designed by Ed Schaider at ModFords. I was the first customer and went 9:1 and put them in an Aluminator block (a better block than the Teksid or standard WAP).

Here's the build thread with lots of upgrades:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/236857-Aluminator-Gibtec-build

FYI, here's a bunch of info on the heads and blocks:

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/castings.htm

That looks like a great build thread. I haven't had a chance to read it yet but I did notice the pistons are flat tops but you say static compression is 9:1. What heads etc. all went into the combo to get the compression that low on flat tops?

 

[jrgoffin]

The pictures are deceiving, but there is actually a real slight dish to them and they rest about 0.050" down the the bore. Am using FRPP ported heads with the 52cc chambers, and considering the FelPro MLS gasket thickness of about 0.036", the C/R is about dead on 9.0:1.

The original thread with all the info on Ed's design:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/231649-Off-The-Shelf-(OTS)-Custom-ModMotor-Pistons

Edit: The dish is somewhat discernible in this pic:

 

[broke7]

Actually just the opposite. The 1141 L/R are the blue version of the gaskets. They have a thin rubber coating on them and are rated for less HP. Their main purpose is that they will seal on a surface milled as rough as 60 Ra I think it was. The smooth black OEM gaskets, part # 26222PT (right), 26187PT (left) require a surface finish of 20 Ra or smoother as I recall but will hold more power.

With that said I've seen people report over 1000 whp on the blue 1141 gaskets. I called Felpro for exact numbers and they won't say. All they will say is the 1141 holds less than the 26xxx gaskets but no guidelines as to what those HP numbers are.

Funny you mention that as I called felpro last year and gave me run-around which leads me to believe they havent the slightest clue wtf their talking about hahah. Kept getting conflicting stories.

Mine didnt have the sticky rubber coating on them either.

I know way to many guys making 700-1000+ on the 1141's not to use them which was my motive. There is a slight RA difference in the two as you pointed out. The 1141's are listed as high performance versions on their site & the 26187's are OEM replacements.


The bore is cited as 3.63 on the 1141's on their site.

I dont think you can go wrong either way.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Funny you mention that as I called felpro last year and gave me run-around which leads me to believe they havent the slightest clue wtf their talking about hahah. Kept getting conflicting stories.

Mine didnt have the sticky rubber coating on them either.

I know way to many guys making 700-1000+ on the 1141's not to use them which was my motive. There is a slight RA difference in the two as you pointed out. The 1141's are listed as high performance versions on their site & the 26187's are OEM replacements.


The bore is cited as 3.63 on the 1141's on their site.

I dont think you can go wrong either way.

Not a sticky rubber but just some sort of rubber coating. I assume rubber, that's how it feels anyways. It's not the completely smooth finish you have on the OEM black ones.

Worth nothing the blues are a little thicker too compressed. I forget the numbers but that would give a slight reduction in CR as well.