So after reading a bunch of threads of rearend failures and excessive noise, I've decided to do a girdle and a couple other mods to give myself some insurance. Car is definitely a pure street car but I don't want to feel that I can't go to track if I want to. Plans are to do carrier studs, fully weld tubes, che brace and a girdle (maybe 3.73 change also). So does anyone have actual experience with any of the girdles. Griggs looks good but u need a hose kit to reroute line and I'm not to crazy about the temp sensor location. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Rearend Girdles with track pack any experience
- Thread starter 36382mm
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I picked one up myself already, still sitting in the box, but won't be installing it until later this spring since its winter up here still. I'm looking forward to removing the 3.31's but also want any advantage to keeping that rear end quiet and strong without going 9".
Che girdles are nice , little tough to install with control arm relocation , I ended up going 33 spline with 9 inch ends , welded tubes and a girdle cover with 3.73
What rearend girdle did u use
Which brand did you get?
Do you recall when you removed the stock track pack diff cover did fluid come out of temp sensor port. Been talking with LPW racing and the owner Doug has a track pack diff cover and saids that the bung that houses the temp sensor DOESN'T go thru the cover, in other words the sensor isn't in contact with fluid???
Yeah, the temp sender location kind of sucks. It is what it is I guess.
Keith.
Sorry, can't say. I didn't do the install an this one.
My factory cover is long gone. Maybe another owner who has changed gears in a track pack car can chime in.
Sensor does not touch differential fluid.
Thanks for the info so obviously you just can't go drill and tap a hole and place sensor in fluid?? This raised more questions in my head. So what do we do?? Drill and tap and try to leave as little material as possible before breaking thru. That doesn't sound wise.
Leaking from where exactly..
Most likely the vent up on top. Particularly at high speed. I had to finally remove the vent and rig up a curved hose. No more leak!
I have a Griggs Racing girdle that is made for the cooler lines. You can see in the picture below that the temp sensor does in fact protrude through and touch fluid.
I would also recommend getting Mark Williams billet steel caps. They will have to be flat milled to match the bore of your current housing but they are alot stronger than the factory caps. Any general machine shop will be able to do this. I actually called Mark Williams and the tech mentioned that he has never had one fail.http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1578
I would also recommend getting Mark Williams billet steel caps. They will have to be flat milled to match the bore of your current housing but they are alot stronger than the factory caps. Any general machine shop will be able to do this. I actually called Mark Williams and the tech mentioned that he has never had one fail.http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1578
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I like this. can you give me part numbers on your setup for the girdle...on grigs website there are a few different ones. I want to make sure I can order the correct piece?
I looked at the griggs and it's probably the best piece for us right now. Been talking to LPW racing and Doug the owner is going to cast a girdle that will be a direct fit. Cooler lines , temp sensor bung in stockish location not in fluid, vent in the cover and MAYBE even the holes to hold the harness and hard lines to side of cover. Should be available in a couple of weeks or so, I'll update with a new thread. Thanks for all the feedback and help.
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