Rear suspension help

[Blownsvt84]

I currently have a moser 9" rear end with Metco upper and lower control arms and BBK springs with Bilstein shocks. My car does not seem to squat/transfer at all and it's tough to hold the road even from a pretty good roll. I've been thinking about tweaking the suspension set up a bit to make it more adjustable. I had been thinking about picking up a set of QA1 fully adjustable shocks for the rear. What kind of set ups are you guys running? What would you recommend to help my car hook.


Been searching all over summit looking for a QA1 rear coilover set upbut not finding anything. Any suggestions?

 

[Speed Demon]

Part of your problem is the 9in. The upper control arm mounting points are to high, not allowing the suspension to cycle the way its designed to.

 

[Blownsvt84]

Not much I can do about that. I needed a rearend that would hold 1000 whp reliably so a 9" seemed like the way to go.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Not much I can do about that. I needed a rearend that would hold 1000 whp reliably so a 9" seemed like the way to go.

Sell it, or trade it for a built race prepped 8.8. A race prepped 8.8 will hold close to 2k depending on car weight and shock loads.

If the 9" doesn't have correct suspension geometry it doesn't matter what it will hold.

Typically you would not need a 9 inch until you were doing a narrowed tubbed 4 link for 14-32 tires @ WELL over 1500 RWHP.

The stock fox based quadra-BIND is bad enough even when all the pick up points are correct, if something is off or you are using all solid ends it can easily lock right up and have practically no compliance at all.

 

[Scotty B]

with 1000hp the 9inch is a better set-up. My 97 has a 9inch and has went 1.37 60ft. That was with slicks on a prepped track. Its not likely you'll hook up a 1000hp on the street. What kind of tires are you running? For any suspension to work it requires some amount of initial traction to load the tires. hard to do on the street, unless like jimmy said "tubbed w/14-32's ". two ways to increase initial traction, more contact patch ie. wider or taller tires and more weight on the rear. from there use the shock to control the rate it loads the tires.

 

[svtjoe123]

There's a great deal more to setting up a rear suspension than that scotty. If the upper control arm mounts are truly an inch higher than the effectively have moved your instant center closer to the rear of the car and lower which is why it isn't "squating anymore. Suggesting 90/10's and a fat tire combo is just a half assed way to getting a car to plant and hook. Work on your suspension geometry and you will need neither of those to hook. My suggestion: take your car to someone who knows how to set up control arm angles, has a scale that measures weight at each tire with you in it, and start going crazy with your math and a welder.

 

[ac427cobra]

There's a great deal more to setting up a rear suspension than that scotty. If the upper control arm mounts are truly an inch higher than the effectively have moved your instant center closer to the rear of the car and lower which is why it isn't "squating anymore. Suggesting 90/10's and a fat tire combo is just a half assed way to getting a car to plant and hook. Work on your suspension geometry and you will need neither of those to hook. My suggestion: take your car to someone who knows how to set up control arm angles, has a scale that measures weight at each tire with you in it, and start going crazy with your math and a welder.

Or...................... simply put a modified IRS back in it and solve all of those problems. :read:

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[svtjoe123]

If there was a like button I'd "Like" what you just said hahah.

 

[Teej281]

amen to that guys! lol