Rear Control Arm Question

WZL 96

SN95 Wrangler
Established Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
112
Location
Marietta, GA
One last question, I noticed a lot of people like the J&M's. They dont have grease fittings like some others so my question is do the squeek too bad?
 

AZSN95SNAKE

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
1,358
Location
Arizona
Bilsteins or sell the car. Lol I've gone through so many tokico blues, illuminas, eibachs, and a few others I can't think of atm and none lasted more than 3 months on ford B springs. Not sure what the problem was, but I forked out the cash for the Bilsteins and have never looked back. They've been on the car for a year and the ride is great. I also switched to H&R ss springs and they're awesome.

I have MM LCA's nothing bad to say about them, car feel much more planted in turns and straight lines.
 

blacksheep-1

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2005
Messages
1,476
Location
Florida
The issue with having too much stiffness in the upper arms is easily explained. While the mustang rear suspension actually works well for the drags, it tends to induce snap oversteer when the suspension attempts to "unload " (or unbind ) itself at the beginning of corner exit. If you look at the rear lower bars they are parallel and form identical arcs. The uppers also form identical arcs...in almost opposite directions. In other words, the top arms are constantly fighting each other,pulling in two different directions. The cheap, fast, dirty and not recommended way to fix this is to install a panhard bar and unhook one of the upper arms. The car will free up and you can actually tune the rear suspension. Someone used to make a kit that got rid of the two upper bars and melded them into one, with a panhard bar. Adding a panhard bar to this (stock suspension) disater will just add another arc to the already confused rear suspension, you can take a stock mustang, add a panhard bar and actually jack up one side of the car (the body) simply by twisting on the panhard bar. If it was me, on a road course, i'd find the softest upper control arm bushings that I could find. But truthfully, the only real answer is to go to a truck arm, some type of parallel 4 link of an IRS.
 

NVRL8TE

Death or Glory
Established Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
2,200
Location
Cleveland, OH
So for a street car that sees 150 miles a week and the track every other week, J&M street, or race?

Keep in mind, I like the fact I can drive my car anywhere, anytime, zero hesitation.
 

SVT CAMR

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2009
Messages
1,447
Location
Chi-Town Burbs
So for a street car that sees 150 miles a week and the track every other week, J&M street, or race?

Keep in mind, I like the fact I can drive my car anywhere, anytime, zero hesitation.

I honestly cant tell you because I have the street race version. This is why I got this version because I go to the track a lot. Not sure if you would break a bushing in the street version. Maybe you can find out for us? I have not damaged my bushings in 3-4 years and when I call J&M to get bushings he asks me why do you need them. I say just because. he says you don't need them. BTW it is the same 3 piece bushing they use for the street version. I asked him if I could press out the solid bushing and install the the 3 piece in place of... and he said that is not possible. So what ever one you go with that is what you go with. IMO the street race version is not noisy.
 

NVRL8TE

Death or Glory
Established Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
2,200
Location
Cleveland, OH
I honestly cant tell you because I have the street race version. This is why I got this version because I go to the track a lot. Not sure if you would break a bushing in the street version. Maybe you can find out for us? I have not damaged my bushings in 3-4 years and when I call J&M to get bushings he asks me why do you need them. I say just because. he says you don't need them. BTW it is the same 3 piece bushing they use for the street version. I asked him if I could press out the solid bushing and install the the 3 piece in place of... and he said that is not possible. So what ever one you go with that is what you go with. IMO the street race version is not noisy.

That helps a ton! Thanks!

And are you challenging me to throw a bushing?.. Challenge accepted...
 

gq916

Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Messages
867
Location
Sacramento, CA
Are the Bilstein's really worth it? of course Ive read nothing but amazing reviews but seriously, that's $666 (creepy, right?) for front and back from American Muscle. I would prefer to go new, i don't want someones hand-me-down terminators for fear they are worn out.

yes they're worth every penny, i went from stock to tokico to bilstein..shoulda just bought bilstein in the first place.
 

NVRL8TE

Death or Glory
Established Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
2,200
Location
Cleveland, OH
I honestly cant tell you because I have the street race version. This is why I got this version because I go to the track a lot. Not sure if you would break a bushing in the street version. Maybe you can find out for us? I have not damaged my bushings in 3-4 years and when I call J&M to get bushings he asks me why do you need them. I say just because. he says you don't need them. BTW it is the same 3 piece bushing they use for the street version. I asked him if I could press out the solid bushing and install the the 3 piece in place of... and he said that is not possible. So what ever one you go with that is what you go with. IMO the street race version is not noisy.

Define your opinion on "not noisy".

I want the same arms you have...
 

WZL 96

SN95 Wrangler
Established Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
112
Location
Marietta, GA
Just bought BMR's, will have an update after they go on (hopefully ASAP). Also going in with Eibach shocks. It's not a DD or a fully committed race car so this will be fine.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top