does the parking brake need to be disengaged when taking off the rear caliper to get to the pads? after unbolting the 2 -12mm caliper bolts, the caliper is suppose to lift off, right? input is appreciated, thanks!
rear brake question, inside---------------->
- Thread starter TokenBlackGuy
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you shouldnt have to do that, i would take the master cylinder cap off to release some of the pressure from the pistons. but normaly they come right off
can you give more info? when you say disengaged, yes, the e-brake handle should be down.
now, do you have to remove the cable? that is probably what you really meant. I am sure you can do it without removing, but man, what a pita it would be since the cable goes through the spindle. I would remove it. it would made installing the pads and compressing the piston much easier. BTW, the piston spins in, do not use a c-clamp or you could damage the piston.
now, do you have to remove the cable? that is probably what you really meant. I am sure you can do it without removing, but man, what a pita it would be since the cable goes through the spindle. I would remove it. it would made installing the pads and compressing the piston much easier. BTW, the piston spins in, do not use a c-clamp or you could damage the piston.
i tried to change my rear pads earlier today. on the driver's side, i removed the parking brake cable that's attached to the shock cradle (i assume that's the cable you are talking about), then i removed the 2 12mm caliper bolts and tried to lift caliper and the mofo wouldn't budge. i tried for like 10 minutes but no dice. so i gave up and bolted everything back except for the lower caliper bolt. i couldnt get the thread started on the lower bolt. the lower caliper hole isn't aligned w/ the rubber accordion sleeve/hole, it's off just a little bit. so i was hot, i bolted the tire back on and gave up. so the cobra's sitting w/ only one caliper bolt on the driver's rear. i'll try again tomorrow or sunday after church.
i was getting ready for work and started thinking about the parking brake. i had it engaged (handle up), i figured maybe i should've had it disengaged (handle down) b/c the calipers were still squeezing the pads against the rotors, am i right? thanks again.:shrug:
btw, i was following this how to:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/420425-rear-brakes-how-write-up.html
Yes, put the handle down (disengage E brake). Do not remove cable... def do not remove the spring that the cable goes into on the caliper (PITA).. pistons twist in as mentioned above for the rear. Grease up the slides / bolts inside the rubber accordian covers to keep them happy.
With the right tool we can do rear pads at the track in 20 min without removing the e-brake cable. Fronts take 5 min (love Brembo calipers). Just look at it and see how goes together.
You can get the tool at Harbor freight-link below.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
edit-You can borrow mine if you want to come this way. But don't drive it with only 1 bolt in the caliper.
You can get the tool at Harbor freight-link below.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
edit-You can borrow mine if you want to come this way. But don't drive it with only 1 bolt in the caliper.
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drop e brake
remove 2-12mm bolts
use large flat head or small pry bar to pop caliper up
remove old pads and the clips on them unless you have new clips
lube the slides on the bracket that the pads sit on
put clips on the ears
put new pads in brackets with lube on the backs of the pads
use the brake caliper tool to TURN in the piston these do not press in
push caliper back into place (some need tapped in with a mallet)
make sure the flats on the caliper slides are lined up correctly. these have a double D shape to them so line up the flats with the flat section on the caliper. this will make getting the bolt in easier
repeat on other side. its about a 15-20 minute job depending on how many beers you drink while your working on it
leave the cable hooked up its a PITA to get it hooked back up most of the time... not as bad as getting the spring back on but its not always as easy as it looks
remove 2-12mm bolts
use large flat head or small pry bar to pop caliper up
remove old pads and the clips on them unless you have new clips
lube the slides on the bracket that the pads sit on
put clips on the ears
put new pads in brackets with lube on the backs of the pads
use the brake caliper tool to TURN in the piston these do not press in
push caliper back into place (some need tapped in with a mallet)
make sure the flats on the caliper slides are lined up correctly. these have a double D shape to them so line up the flats with the flat section on the caliper. this will make getting the bolt in easier
repeat on other side. its about a 15-20 minute job depending on how many beers you drink while your working on it
leave the cable hooked up its a PITA to get it hooked back up most of the time... not as bad as getting the spring back on but its not always as easy as it looks
thanks for the input, fellas. i actually installed the rears yesterday. the e-brake was the culprit. i rented the caliper tool from autozone. tho, screwing the piston back was a bitch. my wrist and forearms are a little sore. any secret to make that part easier? the AZ guy said i shoulda bled a little brake fluid from the bleeder valve, then try to screw the piston back. was he right? if so, i'll know next time. :beer:
Air Ratchet works well for me.. If they're too tough then there's the possibility they could need replaced.. rebuilds are like $45
Opening the bleed valve can help...but then you need to bleed afterward to be sure no air got in.
The more the pad is worn, the further the piston has come out, and the harder it is to get the piston screwed back in. I once went down to the backing plate at the track on my inside LR caliper, and that was a bitch to screw in. I got it in, but that side always dragged and wore uneven. I finally replaced it.
The more the pad is worn, the further the piston has come out, and the harder it is to get the piston screwed back in. I once went down to the backing plate at the track on my inside LR caliper, and that was a bitch to screw in. I got it in, but that side always dragged and wore uneven. I finally replaced it.
put a small boxed end wrench on the handle and use it to extend the handle on the caliper tool.
not to hijack the thread but do you have to use that tool for the front brakes, or will a regular c-clamp work, I guess i need to just buy the damn tool, it will save me money in the long run as I need to paint my calipers and ia want to tak ehte brakes off the car to do it right.
A C-clamp is all that's needed for the PBR's on front. Or big-ass channel locks-that's all I used to use.
Although the method that I learned for retracting the Brembo pistons may work on the PBRs, I never tried it. I just pull on the bottom of the rotor opposite the pads (with them still in), and that gives enough room to flip one pad around, and use a large screwdriver to leverage between the rotor and the backing plate, pushing the pistons back the rest of the way. Learned that from the endurance teams using Brembos, they change them in 4 min in the pits....while HOT!
Although the method that I learned for retracting the Brembo pistons may work on the PBRs, I never tried it. I just pull on the bottom of the rotor opposite the pads (with them still in), and that gives enough room to flip one pad around, and use a large screwdriver to leverage between the rotor and the backing plate, pushing the pistons back the rest of the way. Learned that from the endurance teams using Brembos, they change them in 4 min in the pits....while HOT!
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