Questions: LCA relocation brackets; Borla s-type mufflers

[455HO71]

Robert, they were given to me from a friend who had a 2012 Supersnake. He took them off the car when he bought it and changed to the Attak system. So, you're comment only makes sense that they are the touring mufflers...

 

[BMR Tech 2]

I have Eibach...lowered about 1" from the stock height with the SVTPP (SVTPP was even lower than the standard GT500).

You will probably want to use the top or middle hole with those springs. I would suggest using the middle hole.

 

[colin1966]

hey Colin,
I added a few BMR rear suspension parts to my 11(picture link below), I have mine set right now in the top hole & it works great BUT as Kelly advised when the springs are in I will use the middle hole (I am installing the Eibach pro kit tomorrow).
http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/6-performance-modifications/125793-few-bmr-rear-suspension-mods.html


Also added the Borla S with O/R H-pipe
[video]https://youtu.be/ZiXdZaVNFk4[/video]

Colin

 

[RBB]

You need to lower the tank to get the control arm bracket out and install the new one. It doesn't appear to be in their instructions for the 11+ mount, but it's in the instructions for the 2007-2009 mount. Honestly, I don't know how you can get the bracket out out of the car without lowering the tank. It's a T50+ you need. You find them on-line as a single socket.

If you remove the mounting bracket and UCA as one piece you don't have to mess around with the tank. At least that's what I did since I was upgrading the bracket as well. The only challenge this presents is torqueing the bolt that holds the bracket to the arm down to 200 ft. lbs while it's off the car. An impact is definitely your friend to get it close. Have someone give you a hand and hold the nut from moving while you torque the bolt down to spec. I found this easier than lowering the tank.

 

[Robert M]

If you remove the mounting bracket and UCA as one piece you don't have to mess around with the tank. At least that's what I did since I was upgrading the bracket as well. The only challenge this presents is torqueing the bolt that holds the bracket to the arm down to 200 ft. lbs while it's off the car. An impact is definitely your friend to get it close. Have someone give you a hand and hold the nut from moving while you torque the bolt down to spec. I found this easier than lowering the tank.

Trying to get 200ft.lbs. of torque laying on my back with a torque wrench and the axle up in normal right height under the car was the challenge for me. 200ft.lbs. is not a simple task, laying on your back.

It took considerable pulling on a torque wrench when I had the bolt head clamped into a bench vise on a steel table with the torque wrench on the nut to get it to the proper 200ft. lbs.

Once I planned ahead and drove my car until the tank was light (low on fuel), removing the two torx bits and lowering the tank was very easy, both dropping and re-installing. <<<The pain here is not planning ahead, and having a larger amount of fuel weight in the tank.

My UCM would not drop low enough with the tank in place, to clear the hole in the floor and slide it out.



R