Questions: LCA relocation brackets; Borla s-type mufflers

455HO71

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I have 2 questions if anyone can chime in...

I am going to tackle installing at least part of my BMR stuff this weekend (adj upper, relocation brackets and LCA, driveshaft loop). I want to at least do the LCA's for now seeing that I'll be lying on my back in the garage. The upper might be a bit easier if I use my dad's hoist. Anyway, obviously the relocation brackets have to go on first but I had a hard time reading the instructions they sent and I couldn't find any youtube videos. I did find a step by step thing on the internet however. The center hole in the brackets is where I attach the LCA's correct? Any other advice?

Secondly, I currently have a stock exhaust except for a Roush axleback system. I love the mufflers as they are freakin' loud but I am curious to try another set I had given to me. My buddy sold his supersnake and he had a Borla S-type axleback on it. I like the tips better as they are .5" bigger and say "Shelby" on the tip. I haven't heard them on a GT500 before and was wondering if anyone can comment on sound and maybe the diff between the 2. If it is substantially more quiet, I don't think I want that.

Thanks
 

Catmonkey

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Make sure you have the right torx bit for the gas tank straps to lower tank before you start. The plus size specified is just that. A standard sized torx is very likely to strip the head of the bolt.
 

Speedboosted

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Roush to S-Type is a big difference. The S-Type is much deeper sounding, both will be close to the same overall volume outside of the car while the Roush will be quieter inside. S-Type is a cleaner sound as well. Think muscle car (Borla) to race car (Roush).
 

455HO71

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Roush to S-Type is a big difference. The S-Type is much deeper sounding, both will be close to the same overall volume outside of the car while the Roush will be quieter inside. S-Type is a cleaner sound as well. Think muscle car (Borla) to race car (Roush).


Thanks for the feedback. I will prob change them anyway and since I have both, I can decide which I like better and go with those for now.
 

455HO71

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Make sure you have the right torx bit for the gas tank straps to lower tank before you start. The plus size specified is just that. A standard sized torx is very likely to strip the head of the bolt.

I have to drop the tank somewhat? I don't remember seeing that lol! This might alter my plans a tad :(
 

Catmonkey

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You need to lower the tank to get the control arm bracket out and install the new one. It doesn't appear to be in their instructions for the 11+ mount, but it's in the instructions for the 2007-2009 mount. Honestly, I don't know how you can get the bracket out out of the car without lowering the tank. It's a T50+ you need. You find them on-line as a single socket.
 

Robert M

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Actually OTC calls it a TP-50.........

001_zpsf02335b5.jpg


Here is the comparison, TP50 and T50...........

002_zps40e8f2cf.jpg


and here is a fuel tank strap fastener that was damaged by using a T50 instead of a TP50..........

003_zpsc7142a6e.jpg


If a tank strap bolt gets striped to the point where it can not be removed with a torx bit, things can get ugly....



R
 
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Robert M

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Using an angle finder can help with determining which hole is best, depending upon the amount of lowering the rear body has.

011_zpsc67708c1.jpg


012_zps2123bf6c.jpg



^^^^^^^The LCA's being higher at the front body attachment point in comparison the rear axle attachment point is better for traction.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Below shows my lowered car with pretty new LCA's installed in the original locations front and rear with no relocation brackets...........

003_zps83b0add9.jpg


004_zps337b62dd.jpg



^^^^^^^^If you like to spin tires, this is a Great set-up, but for traction it sucks with the LCA's positioned lower in the front than the rear.



R
 
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455HO71

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Thanks for all of the help, guys. I haven't even crawled underneath yet to take a look at everything...in fact, it's been covered since October and I haven't been underneath it since last summer so I need to take a look. Just trying to get my ducks in a row before I start. I might do the smart thing and get some help doing this if it looks a bit complicated. Enjoy the weekend!
 

Robert M

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Any issue with using these wheel cribs for long tube header installation? Thanks for your input......

I have FRPP ceramic shorty's which were installed while my car was on a 2-post lift. I have never used the cribs under the front tires, only the rear. I drive the front up onto the 2-piece race ramps and then use a floor jack to jack the rear up and set the tires on/in the cribs.

If you are asking if long tubes can be installed with the car at 10" level off of the floor, on Race Ramps.............not sure?




R
 
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ShelbyGT5HUN

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Robert,

Did you drive around before/after you did the LCA Relocation Brackets? How much better was your traction?
 

Robert M

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Robert,

Did you drive around before/after you did the LCA Relocation Brackets? How much better was your traction?

Yes, those LCA's were installed a couple of months in the oem position before I added the relo's.

Without the relo's my car would very easily spin and stay spinning even at lower rpm's and controlled lower speeds until it was time to shift.

After the relo install, using the middle hole as shown, my car will still spin, but it bites and squats in the rear quicker than it did previously.

I also have found that if I short shift now, I can really get my car to bite and squat and somewhat hold traction, before the relo's, I could do the same, but then the tires would break loose until I backed out of it to gain traction again. <<<All of this at lower rpm's/speeds.

Of course if I want to blow the tires off, it will still do that also, but now "if" I want to control the traction, it seems more doable than before.

I have thought about moving to the lower hole, just to see if it makes a difference, but that is for another time.........




R
 
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ShelbyGT5HUN

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Robert,

You are describing my car's LACK of traction perfectly. Spins like crazy even at low rpms. I'm not even close to Super Snake power either. I have a set of these brackets to go in, hoping to gain some traction. My LCA's are angled just like yours were. Hoping to see an improvement!

I've read that if you move it too low, you will get the rear end really light under hard braking.
 

455HO71

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Well, I tackled the exhaust part today. Man, what a waste of a couple of hours. I was skeptical that the mufflers WEREN'T s-types. Well, after I cursed fitting the driver's side on, I started it up and wow, disappointed. The stock mufflers are louder so I'm thinking these are a touring muffler with the Shelby tip possibly added. Took them off and put the Roush mufflers back on. I'll hang on to them just like I am with the factory ones for down the road if I install long tubes and xpipe.

I will try my hand at the LCA tomorrow..
 

Robert M

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Well, I tackled the exhaust part today. Man, what a waste of a couple of hours. I was skeptical that the mufflers WEREN'T s-types. Well, after I cursed fitting the driver's side on, I started it up and wow, disappointed. The stock mufflers are louder so I'm thinking these are a touring muffler with the Shelby tip possibly added. Took them off and put the Roush mufflers back on. I'll hang on to them just like I am with the factory ones for down the road if I install long tubes and xpipe.

I will try my hand at the LCA tomorrow..

I didn't want to say anything, because I didn't know what exactly was sold to you, but when my 2008 went through Las Vegas, Borla Touring was the standard install on the Super Snakes. There have been some changes at Shelby since my car went through, but I think Borla Touring is still the standard install if it is Borla.




R
 
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