Procharger Red Race Bypass Guys in here..

Cookieman00x

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So I recently swapped from the open red race valve to the enclosed version.


I am hearing an annoying whistle sound with the bypass is open and im crusing.

Its not the blower whistle sound, its higher pitched. Needless to say its very annoying. I tried putting a filter over the opening to quitet it down, but I can still hear it.

The only think I can think of is using it as a bypass and put it back into the procharger intake.

Any thoughts?
 

Helomech74

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Sounds like the air rushing out of the closed version causing the whistle sound. I have heard this before. I would just route it back into the intake if it bothers you that much, otherwise I would put the open version back on. I have the open one and wouldn't trade it for anything.
 

Cookieman00x

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Yeah the open one was too loud. It annoyed me on the highway to hear the constant air sound. Ill just hook it up as a bypass and see how it goes...
 

gmsux

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Doesn't having a bypass then rerouting it to recirc defeat the purpose of it? If there is a problem with the valve maybe replace it or get it fixed? the air that is leaking past it may creat some tuning issues.
 

Cookieman00x

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thank you... no tuning issues, its a recirculating valve thats vented to the atmosphere, there isnt anything wrong with the valve, just the sound is annoying.

I have a blow-thru MAF so I can use it as a blow off valve or recirculating..
 

busta

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It sounds like the bypass valve is bleeding air. It's supposed to stay closed at all times until boost pressure is discharged or if there is less than 0 vac. Is there a way to adjust the unit? I've read on some other forums of guys complaining about a similar issue, and they even noticed a loss in power because of it. Did you notice your boost level lower at WOT?
 
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Helomech74

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It sounds like the bypass valve is bleeding air. It's supposed to stay closed at all times until boost pressure is discharged or if there is less than 0 vac. Is there a way to adjust the unit? I've read on some other forums of guys complaining about a similar issue, and they even noticed a loss in power because of it. Did you notice your boost level lower at WOT?

Only on a turbo system does it work like that. On a Centri blower it bleeds off boost when ever it's in vacuum. When it gets into boost it closes off, then stays closed during boost, then opens again and stays open in vacuum and 0 vac.

His valve is working correctly, it just makes a higher pitch whistling sound compared to the open version of the same valve.
 
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Stopsign32v

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It sounds like the bypass valve is bleeding air. It's supposed to stay closed at all times until boost pressure is discharged or if there is less than 0 vac.

You couldn't be more wrong
 

busta

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Only on a turbo system does it work like that. On a Centri blower it bleeds off boost when ever it's in vacuum. When it gets into boost it closes off, then stays closed during boost, then opens again and stays open in vacuum and 0 vac.

His valve is working correctly, it just makes a higher pitch whistling sound compared to the open version of the same valve.

You couldn't be more wrong

I should probably stop searching Google for my information then. I had read a post about the Procharger bypass valve "bleeding" air causing a sound similar to what Cookieman is experiencing. It sounded correct but maybe I should stay out of discussions that are over my head lol. Thanks for the correction.
 
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Helomech74

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The Procharger boost bleed off issue wasn't with the big red valves. It was associated with the cheap POS that comes in the kit. It has been known to bleed of boost when it was supposed to be closed causing some loss of power. They all bleed off air during vacuum.
 

whippedSNK

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How bad is the valve setup that comes with the kit...Im waiting to install a complete kit in spring...which RED valve should I purchase if I dont want to use the stock setup????

sorry to highjack!!
 

MKSVT

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How bad is the valve setup that comes with the kit...Im waiting to install a complete kit in spring...which RED valve should I purchase if I dont want to use the stock setup????

sorry to highjack!!

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Yours came with this one correct?

The proflow valve is an extremely good valve and actually a step up from the cheesy Bosch valve procharger use to include with their kits.It will be more then enough for any p1/d1 kit you got with factory 6-10lbs pulley. The big red is a race valve meant for big boost applications, Yet people still run them on 10lbs applications due to the factor of not having to upgrade down the road while im sure the sound they give off plays a huge roll also.:D
 
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whippedSNK

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dang, I will check..I bought a complete unused kit off some dude who had it sitting in his basement for a couple years so its not a new-new kit. I will go check....thanks
 

whippedSNK

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Hmm, well I dont have the Proflow and the valve inclosed even looks much cheesier than the bosch valve that is shown on their site. Interesting, The kit I bought was completly unopened...even the bags were still sealed so I know everything is there-I even matched everything to the check list that comes with the kit...

whatever I got looks chinsy as heck!
 

Helomech74

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Hmm, well I dont have the Proflow and the valve inclosed even looks much cheesier than the bosch valve that is shown on their site. Interesting, The kit I bought was completly unopened...even the bags were still sealed so I know everything is there-I even matched everything to the check list that comes with the kit...

whatever I got looks chinsy as heck!

You probably got the cheesy steel version of the Proflow valve. I had one before and it suffered from severe boost bleed issues. I was loosing about 2-3psi off boost at high rpm with that valve. That's why I changed to the Red Race Valve.
 

whippedSNK

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do you have to use the expensive Procharger red race valve or will say a typical aftermarket blowoff valve work??, you are right though. it is the crappy looking steel thing! maybe at only 10lbs the crappy one will be OK fo now??
 

Helomech74

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I would go ahead and run it if it's new. The bleed off issue was due to the steel corroding and not allowing the valve to seal all the way. If it starts to cause problems down the line you can get a new valve. You don't need to run the Procharger red valve, any quality valve will work. Just make sure it's adjusted correctly.
 

SVTStrikesBack

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It's just loud. That's why I was going to trade you for the open version since I would think that with more total area to escape, it would be quieter. Compacting into the small area of the bypass is basicaly what makes it loud. Mine makes a chirping sound as it bypasses air during warmup and low rpm decel. Personaly, I'd rather have the woosh and be done than this damn bird trapped under my hood sound. It sounds like a severely jacked up drive belt.

Just think, I saw this on the main forum page and I almost didn't click on it... :p
 
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KingCobra10Sec

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Me and my buddy have the open and closed versions, his is very loud and does become annoying after a while, driving is car sounds like a runway at the airport, mine however only lets off sound while letting off the gas.

Now if my exhaust wasn't so loud LOL.....
 

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