Procharger Cold Side Pipe Fab. Work

99cobra09

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So after trying multiple locations for my slot style HPX MAF its pegging every damn time! :nonono: So i made up my mind im just going to re-do my cold side pipe. I will be going with 3.5" pipe either aluminum or steel not sure what to use. I will also be removing the procharger throttle body elbow and get a silicone 4.25 to 3.5 silicone reducer for the throttle body.

Now Anyone know where i can get one done?
Or a place online where i can buy the material and build it fairly easy, or atleast mock it up myself and then take it somewhere to get welded nicely. Also if can get some of your guys opinion on how to route it or buld it. :beer:


Here's how it looks now, i will be keeping the power pipe so i will have to build something that fits throught that whole.
Note: the circled area is where my MAF is attached too.
revised.jpg


IMAG0459.jpg
 

JP_Stang

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Hey man, I don't know how you feel about cutting more material out around the fender, but I would (and am going to do to my car this weekend for my cold side setup) cut out alot of that metal beneath the factory cutout, and try to make a straight as possible shot from in the fender to the tb. Check out Brutal Metal's thread in this section (just a couple of threads down) and look what he did. He has a great setup in my opinion.

I hope this helps! Good luck!
 

Brutal Metal

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I wouldn't replace your throttle body piece with a silcone elbow, that thing will be blowing off even with T-clamps!
Like mentioned in the PM 99Cobra09 figure out what piping you need and I'll send you some 3.5". In my opinion you best setup would be to ditch the curved piece attached to the first coupler as well as the piece you have the MAF mounted to, have your welder fabricate ONE piece like this with the slotted meter facing as shown right where the straight ends and the curved transition begins to the TB, I have plenty of counts left..
photo0015mif.jpg
 
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Brutal Metal

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Why? I thought their only 3 inch and not really suited for intercooled cars with unorthodox pipe routing, that VMP is the same sized straight piece like he's already running unsuccessfully..
 
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encasedmetal

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Why? I thought their only 3 inch and not really suited for intercooled cars with unorthodox pipe routing, that VMP is the same sized straight piece like he's already running unsuccessfully..

so he can weld it in- and no they go larger than 3"- OP - who did your tune and what does your dyno look like. this is honestly the only time that I have seen someone displeased with the HPX.
 

Brutal Metal

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I agree it does seem strange that your pegging BUT you say it's in that straight piece of pipe? how is it facing, show me how it's connected even if you have to remove the piece from the couplers
 

99cobra09

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I agree it does seem strange that your pegging BUT you say it's in that straight piece of pipe? how is it facing, show me how it's connected even if you have to remove the piece from the couplers

I agree also, i haven't never seen or heard of this maf pegging out. The maf is facing the the way its suppose to, were the arrow points. As far as how its connected i got the diagram that VMP has in there website.
 

JP_Stang

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You do have quite a few bends, and this could be causing turbelence. Have tried rotating the pipe with the maf in it? I read somewhere that sometimes rotating the pipe can sometimes get the sensor in a "sweet spot". I don't know if this is true, but it might be worth a shot if you haven't done it already.
 

encasedmetal

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You do have quite a few bends, and this could be causing turbelence. Have tried rotating the pipe with the maf in it? I read somewhere that sometimes rotating the pipe can sometimes get the sensor in a "sweet spot". I don't know if this is true, but it might be worth a shot if you haven't done it already.

usually this method refers to non slot style MAFs- if they are clocked incorrectly your car will run like shit. with the slot style this tends to not be the case- I am guessing there something in the tune doing this- there is an incorrect value plugged in somewhere
 

CPRsm

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Clocking a MAF is a band aid trying to find air that is straight in a dicked up maf location. I'm not sure how far a BA5000 will go but I have the hpx in my turd in a 3.5 tube. No tuning issues with it what so ever. I am close to maxing it out at 20 psi and 850 rwhp. Iirc, I have one or two more maf counts to go. I think I'm at 4.6 volts or so. With race gas and more timing than I can run on pump, the maf should do easily do over 1000rwhp.
 

99cobra09

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usually this method refers to non slot style MAFs- if they are clocked incorrectly your car will run like shit. with the slot style this tends to not be the case- I am guessing there something in the tune doing this- there is an incorrect value plugged in somewhere

I doubt its the tunning issue, the car idles great no problems. Car runs pretty good just not above 5k rpm because then the sensor pegs out.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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doesnt VMPs site have a list that states what hp that sensor should be good to for a given tube size?
 

encasedmetal

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I doubt its the tunning issue, the car idles great no problems. Car runs pretty good just not above 5k rpm because then the sensor pegs out.

hence it's a tuning issue bro- mafs don't peg at idle. and you're exactly right in saying that your not at the power level to be pegging that maf- so survey says something else is up. have you datalogged the car? what wiring adaptor are you using for your maf?
 

99cobra09

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hence it's a tuning issue bro- mafs don't peg at idle. and you're exactly right in saying that your not at the power level to be pegging that maf- so survey says something else is up. have you datalogged the car? what wiring adaptor are you using for your maf?

My maf. is not pegged at idle, it pegs at around 5000rpm. Im leaning more towars the piping have too much turbolence.
 

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