Problem after pprv delete

Adamn

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I just got done doing a pprv delete and I used the gates fuel hose with fuel injection hose clamps and I went out for a trip around the block to make sure all was good. Well it wasnt, it ran fine until I got about 3 miles away and I took off from a stop and went to do a couple gear pull but when it got up to about 5k rpm it fell on its face and ran like shit over 1500 rpm. It would idle fine but not when it got over 1500. I pulled over and checked for a vaccume line that might have popped off but didn't see anything so I limped it back home.

I noticed the intake tube was not all the way on the tb so I put it back on and tightened the clamp good and tight and it ran fine so I took it out again. Once again it ran fine until I got around 4-5k and the same thing happened but this time the check engine light came on. I got home and let it sit for about 30 min and started it up again and it runs fine again but the check engine light is still on.

Mods are 2.75 upper ported eaton, bbk 62mm tb, BAP, 60s, off-road x and catback
 

jcf69

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Had same prob after my install one of my pump hoses popped off, turns out its a common prob. Saving up for a hat !
 

brad65ford

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I know i should know this but what is a hat, i remember seeing this before. I'm thinking about doing my pprr valve delete soon, i have seen some hesitation between shifts.
 

Adamn

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Had same prob after my install one of my pump hoses popped off, turns out its a common prob. Saving up for a hat !

I read that hoses popping off was an issue and considered that as the issue but thought it was strange that it ran so poorly but after I shut it off and it sat for 20-30 min it ran fine again. The fact that it ran fine after sitting made me think that it wasn't the fuel hose
 

cj428mach

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I know i should know this but what is a hat, i remember seeing this before. I'm thinking about doing my pprr valve delete soon, i have seen some hesitation between shifts.
The hat is the assembly that holds the fuel pumps and bolts to the top of the tank.

I read that hoses popping off was an issue and considered that as the issue but thought it was strange that it ran so poorly but after I shut it off and it sat for 20-30 min it ran fine again. The fact that it ran fine after sitting made me think that it wasn't the fuel hose

What code were you getting?
 

Adamn

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I haven't had a chance to have it checked yet I'm going to call a guy tomorrow and see when he can hook
 

WHITESTRIPES

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One of my hoses popped off after my pprv delete too. My car wouldn't start after I first shut it off though so I doubt that's your problem. Almost sounds like your pulling in un metered air
 

Adamn

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It shows code number p0190 and says fuel rail pressure sensor
 

135 Boom

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I just replaced my stupid FRPS. Got a Kenne Bell disc, they are suppose to help. Usually the car doesn't start after a FRPS failure, but there are a bunch of symptoms from my research. One way to check is to pull the vacuum line and see if there is fuel in it.
 

Adamn

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That's what still confuses me is from what I've read it won't start but if u unplug the electrical wires to the frps the car starts. Mine runs fine until it gets up to about 5k then it falls on its face and runs like crap over 1500 but idles fine. Should I try data logging?
 
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46stang

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sounds like one of the pumps may have disconnected electrically or a fuel hose is leaking back into the tank. ABove 4500 rpm requires a higher volume of fuel. I would hook a fuel pressure guage to the rail, tape the guage to the windshield and drive it. if the fuel pressure drops off at higher rpms under a load check your pump wiring and or lines.
 

BurnTire

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Drop the tank and check the hoses first. If they are fine then you can trouble shoot the FRPS.
Removing the PPRV allows more pressure to hit the FRPS. There have been partial FRPS failures that still allowed the car to run, but most make the car die. Adding the Kenne Bell disc reduces the amount of fuel volume that hits the sensor thus dampening the spikes to the FRPS.
 

Adamn

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sounds like one of the pumps may have disconnected electrically or a fuel hose is leaking back into the tank. ABove 4500 rpm requires a higher volume of fuel. I would hook a fuel pressure guage to the rail, tape the guage to the windshield and drive it. if the fuel pressure drops off at higher rpms under a load check your pump wiring and or lines.

Wouldn't it be easier to use a handheld to datalog than to tape a gauge to my windshield? What you said sounds like it could be a possibility, I talked to my tuner today and he mentioned a pump or or fuel line failure as a possibility too
 

Adamn

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Drop the tank and check the hoses first. If they are fine then you can trouble shoot the FRPS.
Removing the PPRV allows more pressure to hit the FRPS. There have been partial FRPS failures that still allowed the car to run, but most make the car die. Adding the Kenne Bell disc reduces the amount of fuel volume that hits the sensor thus dampening the spikes to the FRPS.


I'm going to pick up a used frps for $20 and try that before I drop the tank again. I figure I should try the 5 min job and if it doesn't fix the problem I'm out $20 and 5 min. I have a feeling it's not the frps and it's likely in the fuel tank but I want to at least give it a shot
 

cj428mach

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That's what still confuses me is from what I've read it won't start but if u unplug the electrical wires to the frps the car starts. Mine runs fine until it gets up to about 5k then it falls on its face and runs like crap over 1500 but idles fine. Should I try data logging?

I would try datalogging. If you had a hose blow off the pump duty cycle would likely be high as its maxing out the pump to try to bring up pressure. I'd also be interested to know what FRP you're seeing with the sensor unplugged, maybe it defaults to 70psi or something. I'm so glad I'm return system lol.
 

speeddemon2000

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p0190 typically means your fuel pressure is too low. Most likely your new hoses are either kinked or leaking fuel back into the tank.
 

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