Pro Charger F1a Supercharger Kit * 1000+rwhp

[thebuffalo11]

F1a supercharger by procharger. (Not the avg procharger kit)..

Only been on the car a few weeks.. Less than 1200 miles.. Car made 959 h.p with 21lbs boost, without cams and on a conservative tune.. This kit can hit 1100+ rwhp...

I no longer need the kit, i am now sponcered by a turbo company, so I'm switching over.. Complete kit, 12 rib set up. Comes with water tank, intercooler and electric fan, and all instalation hardwsre.. Ready to bolt up, fits 2011 to 2014 mustang.

Asking $4899. I think its reasonable considering it is super low miles and all of this costs almost $8000 new..

I have a good seller rating. I can ship in usa at your expence.
Thanks

 

[by9468840]

just curious.. was that air intake location ever a problem with intake temperatures?

 

[GBCoyote]

Injectors/boost a pump?

 

[thebuffalo11]

No injectors or bap. They don't sell it with that stuff. To get this F1a blower, it only comes in a tuner kit form..
These big kits don't normally come with that stuff anyway. U usually buy other good upgrads seporate. The kit comes with what you see. Supercharger, tubing, intercooler, water tank, 2 pulleys and the electric fan.

I'm re using any other parts not listed on the new setup.

No noticable intake cooling problems. Although it is a wierd placement, #'s don't lie. I've seen many laeger kit have wierd intake locations.

Like I said, this is not your normal "ima supercharge my car kit".. this kit Is expensive new, creates huge power, and its basically only a tuner kit with a massive upgraded blower.

Taking offer. I will ship. Thanks.

 

[FlashNinja11]

Is your motor stock?

 

[thebuffalo11]

When I ran the larger pulley it was stock. Around 720hp.
When I got the smaller pulley I got a built bottom end and a retune. 959hp +.
If you have a stock bottom, you could run the larger pulley and get a conservative tune to be in the safe but max 700rwhp range. After that the rods get weak.

You Will need injectors, fuel pump, bap, a blow off valve & a good tune.

Let me know any other questions.
Thanks.

 

[thebuffalo11]

$4999 obo. Bump

 

[thebuffalo11]

Bump $4899. Any offers guys? This is a killer kit. Well worth the money. Send an offer!

 

[FlashNinja11]

how much psi is the larger pulley pushing? I really don't wanna ruin my completely stock car lmao

 

[thebuffalo11]

You should be at 13.8 psi. which depending on your other bolt ons, should put you at 650-730 hp range. Maxing the stock motors out. Read some threads on the optional F1a blower on the P-1SC-1 kit. The standard run of the mill P-1SC-1 produced 7psi I think, but when you upgrade the the F1a blower you can get anywhere from 13.8-20+ psi. It has the ability to make over 1000rwhp. But that doesn't mean you have to make that much on your car, if you dont want too, especially with a stock motor. If you can stay in the 650-700 range (which this can can deliver) you should be fine. There are lots of guys running that much on stockers. And the good thing about this kit is if you wanted more HP down the road, you dont have to get a new blower, because this one can deliver..

Let me know if you interested. I lowered my price $500 in the last 2 days. I can ship.
Thanks

 

[FlashNinja11]

Does it have helical gears in the blower? I am not a huge fan of the centri-blower whine.

 

[FlashNinja11]

also if you have if boxed up would you mind sending me a shipping quote to 29588(residential) and 32119(commercial/business). I live at both addresses so if I did end up buying, I would have it shipped to the cheaper obviously haha

 

[thebuffalo11]

No, these are the standard square cut gears.
It sound more like a vacuum or a Jet to me than a whine, lol.

I just called pro-charger too to confirm on the gears. And I also asked them their opinion on running this kit on a stock 5.0 motor, and the gentleman said with the low boost pulley it should be fine. He even agreed with me in saying that if you add a Blow Off Valve it will further decrease boost levels if you are worried about too much boost. And like I said, if you ever wana raise the boost later, you have to option with this kit. (the sound of the BOV is pretty cool coming from a supercharged Mustang too..).

Well let me know if your still interested. I am accepting reasonable offers.
Thanks

 

[thebuffalo11]

Shipping will cost about $100 depending on carrier.
If you are serious and you want it, Ill cover the shipping for free..

 

[wakebum2507]

So you're saying that 13.8 lbs is safe on a stock motor??

Safe is 11psi, and that's on E...you'll pop a stock block at 14psi.

 

[thebuffalo11]

Sorry let me clarify.

13.8 is standard for the larger pulley. Once you add the blow of valve it lowers the boost to about 9-9.5.

You will need a good BOV that moves alot of air but it can easily be done. Some guys will run 2 BOVs to help displace the charge air enough to be In the safe zone. With an F1 I would highly recommend a BigRed Open Race valve from procharger. That will keep you below the safe levels.

I will lower the lrice to $4600 if someone wants it. Let me know.

 

[RAZRS EDGE]

Sorry let me clarify.

13.8 is standard for the larger pulley. Once you add the blow of valve it lowers the boost to about 9-9.5.

You will need a good BOV that moves alot of air but it can easily be done. Some guys will run 2 BOVs to help displace the charge air enough to be In the safe zone. With an F1 I would highly recommend a BigRed Open Race valve from procharger. That will keep you below the safe levels.

I will lower the lrice to $4600 if someone wants it. Let me know.

I think you are extremely confused on the function and purpose of a blow-off valve. A blow off valve does not/is not designed to lower boost when the engine is not under vacuum. Only way it would be "lowering boost" is by having a weak spring that does not have the proper tension and venting into the atmosphere. They are meant prevent compressor surge on the turbo by releasing positive pressure when the throttle blade closes and the engine goes back to vacuum.

 

[thebuffalo11]

I know what the intended use of a bov is. But I don't think you are understanding what I a recomending. you can use a bov and boost controller to lower your boost.. I stole this from an article I read. I've seen a lot of guys run this type of setup on their cars to lower the boost of their centri SUPERCHARGERS.



"But what is a wastegate, and how does it help a blower car? In simplest terms, a wastegate is fastened to the exhaust piping (hot side) of a turbocharger system to control boost level. It regulates boost by bleeding off exhaust gas to slow the turbocharger impeller speed. The wastegate is fed boost via a vacuum hose, the user predetermines the boost level at which he wants to bleed boost, and the turbo will not exceed that number. The uber-cool whooshing sound from a turbo engine is also created by the wastegate when it opens.

Why use it in conjunction with a centrifugal blower when it's not exhaust driven? Because in this application, the wastegate is not installed on the exhaust side but rather on the inlet tube. So why not just use a bypass valve? Bypass valves control boost and are a fixed entity in that they are open or closed. There is no way for the bypass valve to open partially to bleed off boost and achieve a max boost setting. The wastegate is designed to perform this function, however, we are diverting compressed air rather than exhaust gases. It's a different type of relief, but in the end, the wastegate controls the amount of boost in the manifold.

Utilizing the wastegate in this application has a distinct advantage when tooling around the streets. It allows the supercharger to be pulley'd up for maximum efficient impeller speed at the engine's peak rpm. Our test subject (Grundman's '90 Saleen Mustang) is equipped with a D.S.S.-built 331-Dart block, steel crank, TFS heads, and so on-with a Vortech YSi-Trim super-charger. Running near maximum impeller speed means boost will be somewhere in the neighbor-hood of 19-20 psi-far too much for a pump-gas application and to keep the tires under the back of the car on the street. Grundman often prowls the New York roadways and didn't want to keep burning the expensive high-octane fuel every time he ran to the Qwiki Mart. He also didn't want the hassle of doing a lot of work when he hits the strip in race trim. Spetter's solution was to add the wastegate and boost controller to give his customer the best of both worlds. You can adjust the amount of boost wanted using the boost controller.."

Read more:*http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...supercharger-wastegate-install/#ixzz350YxlmRe

 

[wakebum2507]

I think RAZRS EDGE and I both understand the function of a wastegate, and a blow off valve. I know I do, because I run this set up on my centri car.

What we are saying is that telling people they can make the car safer with a blow off valve isn't true. the blow off valve is a necessity in a centri set up, so you should be including this anyways.
The wastegate is what would help a potential buyer from blowing up a stock block, by releasing off the extra boost that this blower would build.

In daily driving, the BOV(which should be included) remains open, because the car is in vacuum. When the car is put into boost, the BOV closes, allowing the pressure created from the blower head to make its way to the motor. The wastegate is only functioning when boost reaches a certain level in the charge pipes, and bleeds off the excess. 9.7 PSI, in my car's case.

See what we're getting at?

You need to be informed enough to tell people that if they're going to run this on a stock car, they will NEED a wastegate. simply putting in a bov won't help them not window a block.

i'd suggest adding links for the wastegate set up, and a blow off valve so people know.

 

[RAZRS EDGE]

I know what the intended use of a bov is. But I don't think you are understanding what I a recomending. you can use a bov and boost controller to lower your boost.. I stole this from an article I read. I've seen a lot of guys run this type of setup on their cars to lower the boost of their centri SUPERCHARGERS.

I don't need to "read-more" from your copy and paste findings on the interweb. I know how both work from real world experience the last 10 years. I know exactly what you are trying to recommend. You stated someone who buys this should run a Blow-Off valve. In which, they definitely should. But not for the purpose you originally described. That's not how a Blow-Off Valve works and someone who does not know the difference and is looking to buy your kit NEEDS TO KNOW. BOV's do NOT control or reduce manifold pressure in and of itself while under load/no vacuum. Now you're referencing a Wastegate. A Wastegate and a Blow-Off valve are not one in the same.