PPRV delete

[rondog622]

HI,
I searched the forum and got what I needed for info on how to do the delete and everything. But I cant see spending 80.00 on the delete kit from lethal..rubber hose, clamps and a barbed y fitting? One of the posts I saw said that some people just cut out the white thing and connect the hose back together with a barbed fitting.

Have a lot of people done it this way and is there enough hose to make the connection? I also found the website that sells the same style hose if I need to replace the hose.

thanks
Ron
:beer:
:rockon:

 

[bigmoose]

While lethal can be pricy for some items this doesn't look too bad. Its not just any hose. The hose needs to be 30R10 rated for submersible in fuel.

Its also a good idea to remove the stock plastic hose which can become brittle and crack over time.

Depending on your future plans you could put this cost towards a new fuel hat which takes care of everything for you.

 

[MalcolmV8]

PPRV kits can be a nightmare. Search on the forum and you'll see how many issues people have with hoses popping off and been stranded getting towed home, that factory corrugated hose splitting etc. There are a few who've had success but they are the few not the norm.

Myself personally when I started installing a PPRV delete I realized how cramped it is in there and how tight hoses were been bent and pulled while trying to clamp them in. Right then I stopped and decided this was a tow bill waiting to happen. Not the way I like doing stuff.

So instead I picked up a Fore hat and did it that way. It's way more expensive solution unfortunately but a solid one that will never let you down.

 

[Mystic03]

PPRV kits can be a nightmare. Search on the forum and you'll see how many issues people have with hoses popping off and been stranded getting towed home, that factory corrugated hose splitting etc. There are a few who've had success but they are the few not the norm.

Myself personally when I started installing a PPRV delete I realized how cramped it is in there and how tight hoses were been bent and pulled while trying to clamp them in. Right then I stopped and decided this was a tow bill waiting to happen. Not the way I like doing stuff.

So instead I picked up a Fore hat and did it that way. It's way more expensive solution unfortunately but a solid one that will never let you down.

+1 buy a whole system or a new hat with built in pprv

 

[xxjaymanzxx]

Get a new fuel hat better to be safe than sorry

 

[03 Indy Cobra]

PPRV kits can be a nightmare. Search on the forum and you'll see how many issues people have with hoses popping off and been stranded getting towed home, that factory corrugated hose splitting etc. There are a few who've had success but they are the few not the norm.

Myself personally when I started installing a PPRV delete I realized how cramped it is in there and how tight hoses were been bent and pulled while trying to clamp them in. Right then I stopped and decided this was a tow bill waiting to happen. Not the way I like doing stuff.

So instead I picked up a Fore hat and did it that way. It's way more expensive solution unfortunately but a solid one that will never let you down.

This. I couldn't of said this any better myself.

 

[rondog622]

I appreciate the input. I wasn't planning on dropping that kind of cash. Right now. I budgeted myself for a port with mods and getting the front end touched up from rock chips. I guess if I get the xtra cash that's the route to go but for now just stay with my orig plan

 

[01cobravortech]

Because $80 is a lot of money, right Ron?


The Lethal PPRV kit, installed on my car, by Kevin Hand of WickedMotorsports in '07...is still working flawlessly tot his day.

If there is one thing I've come to see about Lethal...is that they make sure their customers get high quality products and maximum bang for the buck.

But hey, if you can do it better, than go for it. I mean we're arguing about $80 here...

 

[rondog622]

No I'm not saying the 80 is a lot. The whole new hat and pumps route is what I was saying was too much right now for me for what I'm doing. That's why I asked on this post. I don't want fuel lines popping or kinking. Like I said for now I'm just going to run with my port and mods and paint. Then see what happens.

I wasn't planning on doing anything with the fuel except for a bap. My tuner suggested the pprv delete. I guess what ever I do I just wanna drop the tank once and be done with it

 

[SVT_Troy]

As Malcolm previously mentioned I read too many stories of people having issues with it and skipped it totally. I bought a Fore hat and put two GT pumps in there and couldn't be happier.

If you don't have an issue now just leave it alone until you can go with a aftermarket hat. If you don't mind pulling your tank and or having low fuel pressure issues which is never good especially while WOT have at it.

 

[cj428mach]

In the future I'll have to upgrade my fuel system. If I do a pprv delete will I have to excessively crank the car to get it to start? Is there anything to do about this? I really want my car to retain factory like drivability.

 

[MalcolmV8]

If I do a pprv delete will I have to excessively crank the car to get it to start?

You will hardly know the difference. When my car was still returnless with a Fore hat and GT pumps which has no PPRV it cranked over almost like stock. It takes maybe an extra half second or so.
The only times I ever really noticed an extra second or so of cranking is when the car was fully warmed and had been driven a bunch and then parked for 20 or 30 minutes and completely heat soaked. In those instances it would crank an extra second or two and then catch and go. Really it's such a minor trade off for getting rid of that PPRV and the hesitation issues it creates when you really crank up the HP and fuel supply demands. Not to mention if you prime it first with key on, key off, key back on it'll crank over almost instantly like stock.

 

[masterjr33]

i run a diagnostino racing
GT pump FPDM and PPRV delete.
was about 500$.
fit great. ran great. no issues other than actually getting ahold of diagostino racing.

 

[FiveOhJoe]

I used the kit from adauto.com

To keep the hoses from popping off just use some stainless worm gear clamps. I used those crappy fuel injection hose clamps and they did nothing, hoses kept popping off.

 

[P Weave]

I went with a line from AD Auto Parts that was supposed to be good, an hour later this happened...

Swapped it out for the submersible hose from Gates (pn: 27093) its about $25 and haven't had issues at all. You don't need to spend $80 to delete the PPRV.

 

[Mach828]

P Weave did it right. Notice the style of clamps he used as well. Those are much better than the worm drive clamps a lot of people use, which is why many have issues with the hoses popping off. I have mine setup like his, with two clamps. Fuel pressure is at 50psi and I haven't had any problems.

 

[2003cobra22]

I used the kit from adauto.com

To keep the hoses from popping off just use some stainless worm gear clamps. I used those crappy fuel injection hose clamps and they did nothing, hoses kept popping off.

Thats what I used works good
PPRV Delete Hose Kits, AD AutoParts

 

[FiveOhJoe]

I think worm gear clamps are a lot better. Much more pressure than those silly EFI clamps

 

[P Weave]

I think worm gear clamps are a lot better. Much more pressure than those silly EFI clamps

Except for that worm gear clamps pinch and cut into the rubber when tightening down...risking fuel leaking out those small holes.

Those "silly EFI clamps" made exactly for Electronic Fuel Injection systems clamp around the entire line with equal pressure...to each their own I suppose :shrug:

 

[FiveOhJoe]

I used the corrugated hose, not rubber so the clamp actually puts pressure on the raised edges of the barbs on the fittings. Also if you install the corrugated hose properly, the seal is made at the very end of the barb because the hose is shrunk with heat over the barb so the clamp is just ensuring it won't slide off.

On the other side of the coin....it's perfectly acceptable to use worm gear clamps on rubber hose. If you tighten it to they point where you but through the fairly thick rubber and the fabric braid of the hose, you did it wrong.