Possible new Coolant Bleeding Technique, and a Coolant flow problem I am having

ShockTherapy

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A little background on my project and cooling system for those that don't know. (I'm putting this same post on a few boards that I haven't posted my project on.) I put a built 5.4L DOHC in my 2001 Lightning, with twin turbos to be installed as soon as I figure this cooling issue out. I am using a cobra coolant crossover pipe, t-stat housing, and hoses. For those who don't know what that looks like here's a pic. (Borrowed from Chad's http://www.2kgt.com web site.)

IMG_7416.jpg


The hose on the lower right portion of the pic goes to the lower radiator. The hose in the upper left goes to the upper radiator. There is a hose that goes down from the crossover pipe and connects to the t-stat housing, and another that comes from the engine and connects beside that at the t-stat housing as well. When the engine gets up to operating temp +, both of those hoses are hot, but the lower radiator hose is not. Seems to me like there is no flow through the radiator, resulting in it not cooling like it is supposed to.

OK, here's the scoop my cooling issue. I tried bleeding the system, and realized once the temps got over 180 and rising, my lower radiator hose was not getting hot. OK, sounds like a bad or improperly installed thermostat, so I proceed to pull the t-stat and have a look. Well, it was installed correctly (spring portion towards engine heat.) I took it out (it was a brand new t-stat) and threw it and my Lightning t-stat on the stove and brought them up to temp. Both opened up, with the Lightning 180deg opening slightly before the new 180deg one, so I decided to reinstall it. Reinstalled the t-stat, refilled and bled the system. Same thing. I've bled it several times by getting it up to temp, letting it cool completely, and then I'm able to add maybe 3-4 oz of water to the crossover tube neck each time. Doesn't seem like much, but the water in the overflow tank is staying in exactly the same spot, so it must be filling up some air pockets in the system. I'm wondering if that's enough to prevent the water from flowing through the radiator?

I've done some searches and talked to a few people, and it seems like a lot of folks have a really hard time burping all the air out of a 4V cooling system for some reason. I was disgusted/discouraged to no end yesterday when I didn't get to drop off the truck to get the turbos put on, but I stuck with it and heat cycled the truck a few times trying to bleed it. I keep telling myself maybe once it's bled it will work fine, but I can't get it out of my head that there may be other possibilities for it not working right.

One other mod I did on mine was to knock out the freeze plugs at top back of the 4V heads, and drill and tap my intake to fit heater hoses. I T'd those together and used that as my input to the heater core. This is one variation of the "cooling mod" to help flow across the back of the heads. Here's my intake for those that haven't seen it.

fuel_plumbed_rear_closer_middle.jpg


I am also using the NAVI water pump with my setup, with my stock Lightning radiator and stock overflow tank.

Could it be that I still have air in the system, which is preventing the water pump from sucking water through the radiator? Or, by knocking out those plugs at the back of the heads and flowing that through the heater core, have I created an easy path for water to flow through that's keeping it from flowing through the radiator like it should? As with any custom project the things you least expect come out of nowhere to bite you, and this one has me stumped at this point. Anybody else have any ideas or suggestions?

My dad, an old school hot rodder, gave me a suggestion this morning. A trick they used to use to relieve any air pockets in a cooling system was to drill an 1/8" hole in the plate of the t-stat, which allows the water to equalize on both sides without having to heat up the engine 1st. I'm thinking I might try that if I can't get it to work right after heat cycling it a few more times. As a matter of fact, that gives me an idea. I think I will drill a hole in the t-stat, reinstall, and remove the overflow tank cap and the coolant crossover filler plug. Leaving the overflow cap off, I'll screw an NPT --> hose nipple fitting into the crossover tube, and hook up a garden hose to it. I should be able to use the garden hose to force water through the entire system since there will be a small hole in the tsat to let water through. I'll fill it up until water is coming out the overflow tank, and keep running water through for a bit to make sure all the air is out. Then I can siphon off some of the overflow tank. Am I crazy, or is this a viable coolant bleeding / burping idea?
 

WDW MKR

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It is very difficult to get all of the air out of these systems. Drilling a hole in the thermostat does seem to help. The biggest thing is to make sure that you follow the Ford procedure:
1) fill overflow tank until level reaches top of tank
2) install cap and tighten
3) continue filling by means of the burp plug on the crossover tube (driver's side)
4) install burp plug once level reaches top
5) turn heater and fans on max
6) start car and let it run until the thermostat opens
7) shut off engine and let cool, completely
8) once cooled, remove burp plug and top off, if necessary
9) repeat steps 6-8 until level remains constant

Also, you should really get rid of the factory thermostat setup and go with the relocated housing and thermostat from Evans. It offers great coolant flow, actually opens all the way before hitting 210*F+, and puts the housing in the upper radiator hose for better control.
 

GordsFord

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ShockTherapy, thanks for your posts. This is an interesting topic as many of our 03/04 Cobra's have serious cooling issues, especially when the boost is increased or we track the car in "open Track" events!

Re your propsed burping method it should work but you need to have a pressure reducer since most domestic water systems are at 80 to 120 psi or so and your cooling system is 16 psi.

I have been trying to get a coolant flow diagram to illustrate how the coolant actually flows through the engines. Ford SVT wont supply one. Does anyone have any such info?

Gord
 

WDW MKR

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I just happened to catch the method you listed at the bottom of your post. The problem is that the crossover plug is the high point, which is why it must be filled last. You can be overflowing at the tank and still have air in the system. It works better to just follow the aforementioned procedure and do it slowly. This cooling system is quirky and seems to require "settling" time for all of the coolant/water to work its way into all the empty space. Also, pressuring cold water though the system will make it hard to get an equal balance on both sides of the thermostat being in the lower radiator hose. It may work better with the thermostat located in the upper hose, but I'd still recommending filling it nice and slow. Some have been lucky enough to fill it once and never worry... the majority of us had to do it multiple times.
 

racebronco2

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i burped mine like this .... after filling expansion tank up to the top of the mark i put the lid on ... i continued to fill thru the crossover plug and squeezed the upper hose to get all the air out .... i let the car warm up .... turn it off, wait about 1/2 hour ..... then i proceed to loosen the crossover cap to get all the air out, once water starts coming out i tighten the crossover cap and repeat ... i do this about three times and have not had any problems (the pressure in the system forces the air out of the crossover cap and you can the difference between air and water excaping)
 

ShockTherapy

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Thanks for all the info guys. How much coolant are you able to add through the crossover tube each time you heat cycle the engine then let it cool down? And do you have to drive it to "shake" the air bubbles loose? I've been just heat cycling it in place and letting it cool down. I am still not getting any flow through the lower radiator hose once it gets up past the point the t-stat should be opening.

Also, does anyone have a diagram showing the coolant flow through the engine and radiator?
 

Black04Lightning

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One other option is to have the cooling system vacuum pulled down at a shop, I have seen them use a tool like this on Boyd Coddingtons TV show American Hot Rod.
This tool much like a vacuum brake bleeding tool ,pulls a vacuum down on the cooling system and helps remove trapped air in the cooling system , good luck And may the LIGHTNING Force be with You, :beer:
 

ShelbyGuy

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you need to get that thermostat open somehow

once its open, you can then fill through the burp plug and watch the water level raise in the overflow tank. then you know that you're not airlocked. the rest of the air at that point will work its way to the overflow tank (aka degas bottle)
 

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