Pics of my new 335/30/18 Toyo Proxes

[Mustang Matt]

It always goes to open loop at the 8 minute mark while idling. It runs fine but it's in open loop the entire time. I wanted to get that figured out before I start tuning it for WOT.

I'm still not sure that it is the computer. We've looked over the tune with a fine toothed comb. I was hoping this new computer would work but it's not hardware compatible.

I may have found another one at Corral for sale that would work. If I can get a good computer I can at least isolate if the problem is with the computer or something else.

 

[whtcobra1998]

if your car is turbo you should turn off all o2's and run open loop the whole time. and if try closed loop make sure the o2's are after the turbo, but the problem with o2's is you can run lean for a while esp if the comp doesn't switch to OL. if they are before the turbo they can get overheated

 

[Mustang Matt]

I don't necessarily disagree with that, but the thing that I don't like is that it's going into open loop without an apparent explanation. If it's a bad computer causing that, I can't really trust the computer at WOT. They are before the turbo.

 

[Shake&Bake]

Mother of god - those are HUGE! I had no idea we could fit that size tire on these cars.

 

[Mustang Matt]

Drove it into the garage to try and figure out some tuning issues.

While it was up in the air I checked some clearances on the rear tires and it is TIGHT.

Granted, this is with suspension at maximum travel (hanging) and it would probably never happen in actual driving.

Believe it or not it isn't touching the spring. If it were it wouldn't be too big of a deal as these springs turn freely with no weight on them.

Near the old spring perch. I may try to do some hammering here:

The parking brake brackets which are already smashed are less than a finger width away. I'm going to try to use a dremel on them and move them to the inside of the LCA. Maximum Motorsports extreme duty in this case. If I can pull it off, that should give me a good 1/4" more clearance.

Also, my entire axle is shifted slightly to the passenger side. If I could center it up I could gain clearance in these pictures as the passenger side has more clearance in the same spots. Any thoughts on how to do that? I've got a torque arm and panhard setup.

 

[bigredd]

if you dont mind what is the backspacing on those rears. Car looks great by the way.

 

[whtcobra1998]

your panhard bar shifts the axle to the pass side during travel, you need to set the axle in the middle with it on ramps so the suspension is weighted, or just do a watts linkage since you don't run tail pipes. and when is your car going into open loop? if anything makes the car load fast or hard it goes into open loop-thats why the car is tuned in open loop. with turbo cars its best to stay in open loop, because if you drove hard and it stays in closed loop it can run too lean and well, meltdown. as for your statement of the 8 minute mark is that from full cold to operating temp? or even with a hot motor. there is a setting in the pcm of when to go into o/l based on coolant temp

 

[Mustang Matt]

if you dont mind what is the backspacing on those rears. Car looks great by the way.

I'm honestly not sure. I need to measure it. I suppose it's whatever the Ruff Racing 278 9.5" wheels are + 1.75" that they were widened.

your panhard bar shifts the axle to the pass side during travel, you need to set the axle in the middle with it on ramps so the suspension is weighted, or just do a watts linkage since you don't run tail pipes. and when is your car going into open loop? if anything makes the car load fast or hard it goes into open loop-thats why the car is tuned in open loop. with turbo cars its best to stay in open loop, because if you drove hard and it stays in closed loop it can run too lean and well, meltdown. as for your statement of the 8 minute mark is that from full cold to operating temp? or even with a hot motor. there is a setting in the pcm of when to go into o/l based on coolant temp

I've considered a watts link. I wonder how different it would be because I'm fairly happy with the way the car handles now.

Car is going into open loop during idle. For a while I was able to get it to switch to closed loop briefly but then it would switch back to open loop and never come out during idle, cruise, wot.

I'm thinking the On3 kit has enough side to side difference in transport delay that it's throwing it off or maybe my heater circuit is not working 100% on one or both sides. I never to figure out which wires are the heater circuit and prod them with a multimeter and see if they're showing 12V or not. I believe the heater circuit goes into a duty cycle mode where it gets flipped on and off more frequently as they get warmed up.

I did log the Open loop due to ect flag and it was 0 the entire time.
I also have a new PCM arriving any day now that I'm going to try to rule out my factory PCM.

 

[Ciotti]

I've considered a watts link. I wonder how different it would be because I'm fairly happy with the way the car handles now.

You probably won't be able to tell a difference because they are very similar but if you do feel a difference it will be an improvement. Panhard bar setups corner and feel different when you're making a right vs a left where-as a watts setup is identical right to left and has a better roll center.