Painted my brakes. How do I get them working properly?

SonicBeast

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I finished painting my brakes and reassembled them. I reconnected the lines but do I have to bleed them? And If so does anyone know of a good writeup on how? Never done it before.
Thanks
 

blackedout06

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#1 Start with the brake caliper that is the furthest away from the brake fluid reservoir.
#2 Have someone sit in the car and pump the brake pedal 3-4 times or until pressure on the pedal starts to build up and keep pressure on the pedal.
#3 Then open the bleeder valve on the brake caliper and allow the air in the line to come out. (the person in the car will feel the pedal go soft and to the floor)
#4 Repeat steps 1-3 until only fluid is coming out of the line.
#5 Repeat steps 1-4 on the next furthest away brake caliper from the fluid reservoir and so on and so forth until all four are done. If done properly the brake pedal should be nice and stiff.

*Make sure the cap is off the brake fluid reservoir and that you keep adding fluid to it as needed*

This is how I have always done it and have never had any issues.
GL hope it helps :beer:
 
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NJredfire03

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how long did you have the lines disconnected? is the master cylinder look dry? if so, you're going to need to bleed the master cylinder too. There is also how-to's on that.
 

SonicBeast

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They were off for a few months while the car was stored for the winter. Is that long enough to cause that? I hope not. Also where's the bleeder valve on the breaks calipers? Thanks
 

Anabolic

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The only Info I'll provide is make sure you have a generally good idea on how to do it before you attempt because hydro boost/Abs is easily damaged.
 

SonicBeast

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Yea it drained a bit over time. And I'm not planning on doin anything untill I get some good help. No one seems to have a good link
 

SonicBeast

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#1 Start with the brake caliper that is the furthest away from the brake fluid reservoir.
#2 Have someone sit in the car and pump the brake pedal 3-4 times or until pressure on the pedal starts to build up and keep pressure on the pedal.
#3 Then open the bleeder valve on the brake caliper and allow the air in the line to come out. (the person in the car will feel the pedal go soft and to the floor)
#4 Repeat steps 1-3 until only fluid is coming out of the line.
#5 Repeat steps 1-4 on the next furthest away brake caliper from the fluid reservoir and so on and so forth until all four are done. If done properly the brake pedal should be nice and stiff.

*Make sure the cap is off the brake fluid reservoir and that you keep adding fluid to it as needed*

This is how I have always done it and have never had any issues.
GL hope it helps :beer:

This seems like good info but I'm not sure how to open the bleeder vakves
 

Anabolic

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if the bleeder is frozen,

DO NOT, twist whatever you're loosening them with
DO NOT, APPLY HEAT
DO NOT, APPLY MORE STRENGTH TO LOOSEN THEM.

DO, use the PROPER size socket, don't use a 10mm if a 3/8 will fit
DO, tap the top of them lightly with a hammer
DO, TRY to loosen alittle retighten and EASE them open.


if they are frozen I would suggest replacing them now before you kill the caliper., also blackedout06 up top has the best how to bleed them..
you will need to bleed them all probably about an hour because it sounds like you have NO fluid in the system.
 
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VirtualSVT

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Yeah you're gonna need to get a power bleeder. Rent or buy one.

I hope air hasn't gotten into the abs pump.
 

SonicBeast

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man i cant believe no body has done a write up with pictures for this. i know its simple for most but ive never done it on any car.
as of right now this is the best approach im seeing as i dont have any sort of power bleeders nor do i know how to use them....

"#1 Start with the brake caliper that is the furthest away from the brake fluid reservoir.
#2 Have someone sit in the car and pump the brake pedal 3-4 times or until pressure on the pedal starts to build up and keep pressure on the pedal.
#3 Then open the bleeder valve on the brake caliper and allow the air in the line to come out. (the person in the car will feel the pedal go soft and to the floor)
#4 Repeat steps 1-3 until only fluid is coming out of the line.
#5 Repeat steps 1-4 on the next furthest away brake caliper from the fluid reservoir and so on and so forth until all four are done. If done properly the brake pedal should be nice and stiff.

*Make sure the cap is off the brake fluid reservoir and that you keep adding fluid to it as needed*

This is how I have always done it and have never had any issues.
GL hope it helps "
 

POPPAJ

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Have your car towed to a garage and have them bleed the brakes. This is the safest thing to do as you don't know the basics. Not a jab, just a fact. :shrug:
 

SVT_Troy

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theres no real need for a specific writeup. Its pretty much the same procedure as any other vehicle. Start farthest wheel away and work your way up doing the master last. Make sure you dong get fluid on your paint and if you do clean it off right away.

A power bleeder will yield alot better/faster results obviously. The brake system should never be left open longer than it needs to be for parts swap.......
 

MysticRob

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Definitely bleed the master after you bleed the calipers.

Dunno if I'd recommend this. I took my front calipers off to paint them just like the OP and left the rears connected. When I reassembled everything I spent way too much time bleeding all 4 calipers with ZERO brake feel returning, and hardly any fluid or air ever bleeding out.

I discovered the master cylinder screws and immediately bled both. Brake pedal feeling returned immediately and all four corners were easily bleedable immediately afterward. Just my own experience... :beer:
 

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