P2626 code this evening

Katy TX5.0

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Riddle me this. I reset the code, drove my car for about 40 minutes, and couldn't get the MIL to come on again. It was a lot warmer today. Could the location of the sensor in the LT headers and temp cause problems?
 

darreng505

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Riddle me this. I reset the code, drove my car for about 40 minutes, and couldn't get the MIL to come on again. It was a lot warmer today. Could the location of the sensor in the LT headers and temp cause problems?

Yes. The sensor placement is important. It should be positioned between 9 and 3 o'clock on the tube to avoid moisture damage. It should not be articulated upward (between 3 and 9 o'clock). Also your tune needs to consider how far down the exhaust system your O2 sensor is positioned. That is important as well (and correct bank!)
 

Katy TX5.0

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It's as you say in the collector. So your "yes" means I should just get used to it when it gets really cold?
 

darreng505

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I was saying yes to the location (position too) of the sensor causing problems. The temperature may affect water vapor in the exhaust so if your sensor is not positioned correctly or calibrated properly in the tune then that will cause problems. So you should check those things (1. Position/Distance of sensor and 2. Ask your tuner if they accommodate it properly). These sensors are perhaps the most important sensor in my opinion as they affect AFR, so any codes that get thrown must be dealt with.
 

SILV03MustangGT

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ive been wanting to chime in on this the last few days. But being out to sea all I can do is lurk but I cannot log in or post.

Anyway, I have had the exact same issues before with my SW LTs. I went to truestreet motorsports and had them rotate my O2 sensors to about the 1 or 2 o clock position. I think the issue is especially when running E85 and LTs is that with the LTs having the sensors at a 90* angle they have water form on them and then when they get hot the water messes them up. I had not have any issues yet with the new position. I only put about 300 miles on the car before I headed back out. If the issue happens again I am going to remove the SW headers and x pipe, sell them and go to kooks mid lengths.

Just my 2 cents on my personal experience.
 

01bluesnake

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Since some people are confused by the few post I've read.

Bank 1 is the bank with Cyl 1, which is the passenger side in this case
Bank 2 would then be opposite, which is the driver side.

After that, you would need to determine if its the front or rear sensor of that bank, which would be the second number, bank 1 sensor 1, read B1S1 sometimes. That would be the primary, also known as upstream wideband. If its read B1S2, that would be the cat monitor, or downstream O2. If you change the bank to the driver, it would read B2S1 for the upstream( wideband), and B2S2 for the downstream O2. I also believe that the sensor or wiring is bad, no way to clean them when they have hard fault codes for circuit failures.
 
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castro_5o

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I'm having the same issue right now I have Amerina Racing headers and the codes are P2626 and P2629 what o2 sensors should I buy. Also is there a graph or something that shows me how to rotate the o2 on the headers
 

scott_0

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I'm having the same issue right now I have Amerina Racing headers and the codes are P2626 and P2629 what o2 sensors should I buy. Also is there a graph or something that shows me how to rotate the o2 on the headers
Motorcraft, you can get them at RockAuto for like $100/ea. I just replaced mine few days, been running Pypes long tubes for almost 2yrs, got p2629 code, I have a feeling it was a result of all the idle (warming up) time from the very very cold weather we've been having, I cleared the code, and never did come back, but I replaced both sensors so I didnt have them to worry about
 
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