Opinions on turbo kits?

Famine

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I'm wondering what the consensus is generally on what are the best turbo kits in terms of quality first, and then price. I've turbo'd n/a cars before and I came to the realization that quality and tune are imperative. I'm sure they can all make similar power numbers, so those should be the deciding factors anyhow. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

onefastmf

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No doubt cpr kits for quality!! No one has a single turbo kit that comes close as far as I'm concerned. There are some bad ass twin kits, but your gonna pay for it, i thought about twins, but for the price you can get a cpr kit and a built motor for the same price as i nice twin kit. seem like a no brainer to me, can't think of one good reason to get a twin over a single besides that it has a bigger WOW factor, thats it
 

Facepuke

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This is going to sound really stupid but I've been trying to find the website to get a cpr kit and I can't find it, anyone help me out?
 

Brezick

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No doubt cpr kits for quality!! No one has a single turbo kit that comes close as far as I'm concerned. There are some bad ass twin kits, but your gonna pay for it, i thought about twins, but for the price you can get a cpr kit and a built motor for the same price as i nice twin kit. seem like a no brainer to me, can't think of one good reason to get a twin over a single besides that it has a bigger WOW factor, thats it

CPR's show starting price of 7299. I bought my Hellion TT kit for 7215 from Lethal Performance with forum discount.

CPR's kit is amazing, but its not THAT much cost difference between a single and twin kit.
 

CPRsm

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This is going to sound really stupid but I've been trying to find the website to get a cpr kit and I can't find it, anyone help me out?
We had a forum based site. But was too much work banning pill spammers and porn posters lol. But this is the new one we've been dragging our feet on. http://cprturbo.com

If you want to go fast ours already includes what you may want to buy later. Custom headers, 4.5in thick Garret core intercooler, turbo blanket, kmember, hot parts are already ceramic coated for you, and a big ass 5in down pipe, no cut outs needed. We are the only single to retain the swaybar as well.
We also have a multitude of turbo selections depending on yours goals. Those are included in the base price as well.

And if sex appeal maters,... Lol


image_3.jpg
 

Turbo5.0

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My choices have been narrowed down to a CPR single or Hellion twin setup based solely on that you can retain the front sway bar. If JPC redesigned their kit to retain a front bar, Id put that kit at the top of my choices but they don't seem to have any plans for it so unfortunately its off my list.

To the CPR guys, is there an option for stainless or what is the reasoning for the mild steel construction? It seemed like many systems over the past 10 years went to stainless. I have an original Cartech setup on one of my fox cars which is mild steel and has been fine, but started to notice corrosion developing in the piping (kit was made in 1992 and was coated at the time). At one point in time I had the turbo header crack which had to be welded but I think that was a stress crack vs heat related. My other Fox 88 Notchback has a PTK Pro Turbo setup which is also mild steel and has performed great as well without any issues ever.

I love the CPR single (mild steel) but am on the fence of going with Hellion Twin (Stainless) as I want it to look nice and corrosion free 10 yrs from now since this 2014 is my only new car bought and want to keep it forever.
 
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CPRsm

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One crack in the cartech system w no brace since '92 ain't bad! Lol.
Truth is metal fatigues, all of them. They all also all oxidize. That's why mild turns red, and stainless turns brown. Neither material will stay new forever. Even the aluminum head unit on a blower or turbo is going to oxidize. Check out the color of your oem catback. That color is it oxidizing. It will probably never fall apart, but we've never had that problem w mild either. The exterior is ceramic coated for that purpose. And the inside becomes coated in carbon which does a good job of keeping it protected believe it or not. When you take a part off the kit you'll see species of rust showing thru. But no flakes, scale, and still in one piece. We've never had a kit fall apart. Your stress vs heat theory is the same as ours. That's why we also brace our turbos so the kit doesn't have to carry that weight. Which in this case is the wieght of a small child lol.

We chose mild because when we started doing this a decade ago we looked into it and the consensus was SS cracked over time between the expansion rate, and the material becoming brittle. We haven't really found it to be true as much as a lot of people just can't weld it. The weld is very easy to overheat. Then it's fubar. We've done 304 as well even on the coyote w a few test sets. 20k miles on one set and so far so good. But it's harder to work with, costs double in argon to weld, wears out tooling faster and the material costs more. When we decided on mild for this kit, the offset in cost in material and labor is what lets use a larger down pipe, CNC flanges, Garret intercooler cores, and many other small differences that set us apart, while still being within market range.
 

Flaco1

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Cpr turbo. Mines in works as we speak. But all the upgrades it comes with and my tuner Daniel over at tss recommend it since he has tuned a couple of them and the drivability is great he said. Great service from Dustin when having any question.
 

T's03GT

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Any differences in installation such as tapping the oil pan or anything?

Weld it. Do it right the first time.

I wonder if these people are ones that only go straight.

Hopefully some post in here, but no, they aren't just going straight. No, they're not autocrossing either but people make it seem like you can't take a simple corner with them. I would hit on ramps without one and be fine.

Same goes about the whole cornering debate with people running skinnies... I'd bet that is a whole lot more sketchy.
 

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