opinions from mach 1 and 99-01 Cobra owners

04DSGAZMACH

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Hey all,

As of late my mach has begun a transformation. It now sports a JLT RAI, MAC off-road H-pipe, Flowmaster 40 series weld-ins, SR lowering springs, KYB shocks/struts and anthracite FR500 17x9/10 with a 315/35/17 on the rear. I just ordered my custom tunes today and can't wait to put them on. Here are my questions; I want to go bigger TB so which would be better for my N/A setup 60mm,62mm or 65mm and BBK or Accufab? I am also considering going to a 90mm MAF and am curious as to what kinds of gains can be expected. I want to do UCA/LCA for better traction on the track. I am looking to have a low 12 second car with the stock 3.55 gears because it is my daily driver and I enjoy my 21.4 MPG average. Let me know any and all opinions about what has been mentioned and other ways to meet my goal without breaking the bank and keeping it N/A. Thanks!

-Tim
 

cobrakillinmach

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dont shy away from the idea of gears im running 4:10s and pulling 16 city and 22 hwy i didnt see much change in mpg with gears but i did see a world of diffrence with power
 

Roots-type

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The stock throttle body and maf are more than enough.

You say you want to keep it a friendly daily driver, but run low 12's. Changing to lower gears will help get the weight of the car moving more quickly from a launch at the strip, but what works the best at the track will not be what works the best on the street. You have to decide where you want the mechanical advantage more, street or strip.

I would highly recommend longtubes/offroad x and a real 2.5" catback. Like anything else, the exhaust is a system. To get the most from it, you have to go all the way.

Maximum motorsports makes some nice lower control arms that will reduce axle wind-up and help you launch. Don't expect them to be as NVH compliant on the street as the stock rubber bushing control arms. Like gears, the best for one thing is not going to be the best for the other. There is always a trade-off.

A slick is a must at strip. Don't even consider drag radials to launch on. Your 28 spline pieces won't last without a soft sidewall to absorb the hit.

I'll let others toss in their .02
 

cobra916

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The stock throttle body and maf are more than enough.

You say you want to keep it a friendly daily driver, but run low 12's. Changing to lower gears will help get the weight of the car moving more quickly from a launch at the strip, but what works the best at the track will not be what works the best on the street. You have to decide where you want the mechanical advantage more, street or strip.

I would highly recommend longtubes/offroad x and a real 2.5" catback. Like anything else, the exhaust is a system. To get the most from it, you have to go all the way.

Maximum motorsports makes some nice lower control arms that will reduce axle wind-up and help you launch. Don't expect them to be as NVH compliant on the street as the stock rubber bushing control arms. Like gears, the best for one thing is not going to be the best for the other. There is always a trade-off.

A slick is a must at strip. Don't even consider drag radials to launch on. Your 28 spline pieces won't last without a soft sidewall to absorb the hit.

I'll let others toss in their .02

:bowdown:
 

dsg04MACHone

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I pulled 21 mpg with my 4.30s once. 18-20 isn't unusual. You think you'll notice a 2-3 mpg hit? Because it's likely you won't...

And you're better off going with the control arms right now instead of the tb.
 

C.Hicks26

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4.30's, tune, and FULL exhaust should have the car getting pretty decent gas mileage. You guys may think im BS'ng but my cousin and I went to Mariette, GA in which i live in alabama and we filled up on the way up there. Well thats the only time i got gas. Anyway, dont think im BS'ng when i say i got 180 miles to 1/2 tank. My car is a Mach swapped 04 convertible with 4.30's, tune, full exhaust and intake. i wish i had ran that whole tank out on the interstate to see how many miles it would have gotten off the tank. Yes this was all interstate and riding about 75mph. I would say that is excellent
 

C.Hicks26

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Oh and to get that car to low 12's with bolt ons will be a combination of driver mod and the correct bolt ons. It wont be easy in general but especially not if you dont have driver mod but with full bolt ons including gear and a tire with good driving you should def be able to get to mid 12's with no problem. My vert with lowered suspension and street tires with the mods i mentioned before ran a 12.71 and it bogged in 4th. that was with only a 1.87 60ft.
 

na svt

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I want to go bigger TB so which would be better for my N/A setup 60mm,62mm or 65mm and BBK or Accufab?
An aftermarket TB will add absolutely no power.

I am also considering going to a 90mm MAF and am curious as to what kinds of gains can be expected.
Once again, not worth it at your power level.

I want to do UCA/LCA for better traction on the track. I am looking to have a low 12 second car with the stock 3.55 gears because it is my daily driver and I enjoy my 21.4 MPG average.
You're not going to see low 12s with a stock gear without some type of forced induction or putting the car on a serious diet. Low 12s requires no less than 4.10s but more like 4.30s.
 
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Machery

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I ran 11'9's in my mach with stock TB and a catted H-pipe. I had drag springs in the rear, drag shocks in the rear, 70/30 drag struts in the front as well as UPR upper and lower rear control arms. I ran 4:30 gears......3.55's will get you nowhere unless you boost it.
 

cobra916

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all long tubes have clearance issues..uca will have bind issues...short gears suck balls to drive on the streets and kills roll race runs.. tb wont do shit but cause idle issues.. add lca and panhard bar and just enjoy.. if your not happy with that.. buy a faster car..all your going to do is throw your money away.. learn from people like me.
 

na svt

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All long tubes do not have clearance issues. Upper control arms with poly front bushings and solid bushings on the rear axle WILL NOT bind.
 

cobra916

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All long tubes do not have clearance issues. Upper control arms with poly front bushings and solid bushings on the rear axle WILL NOT bind.

all long tubes that allow the tranny to be dropped with them being on will have clearance issues..maybe the ones that hug the tranny will be fine..but then you will have that issue when you have to change a clutch... maxium motorsports says what you have listed will bind.
 

Mystic-SVT

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all long tubes that allow the tranny to be dropped with them being on will have clearance issues..maybe the ones that hug the tranny will be fine..but then you will have that issue when you have to change a clutch

I scraped my X pipe with stock manifolds 10x more than I do my MAC lt's. They also allow for trans removal.

Just because you had issues with one or two brands doesn't mean everyone else has the same issues.
 

Mystic-SVT

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short gears suck balls to drive on the streets and kills roll race runs..

4.10s IMO seem to make the car easier to drive on the street, my car does better all around (roll races, digs, track). The only thing that suffered was top speed in 4th gear. Car still tops out at 127-128mph in fourth gear but that doesn't really matter since I don't go faster than that.
 

cobra916

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I scraped my X pipe with stock manifolds 10x more than I do my MAC lt's. They also allow for trans removal.

Just because you had issues with one or two brands doesn't mean everyone else has the same issues.

how about..just because youve had good luck with yours that others might not have?? works both ways hommie.. all long tubes will have some type of issues..maybe the macs might have the least..but being cheapy headers im sure they have thier issues.
 

cobra916

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4.10s IMO seem to make the car easier to drive on the street, my car does better all around (roll races, digs, track). The only thing that suffered was top speed in 4th gear. Car still tops out at 127-128mph in fourth gear but that doesn't really matter since I don't go faster than that.

how about i show you vids of my car that is bolt ons with crower stage 2s.. roll runs with 430s vs 373s?? would that change anything?? no.. you will be still stuck on your 410s.. i dont care to change peoples minds or to keep fighting with people.. the op asked a question and i gave my opinion.. its up to the op to look into both sides of the story..i just want to post and let them know that everything isnt always so peaches and creame.
 

clc44

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OP,

Get long tubes!! I had the BBK's and and made great power. It was a PITA to remove trans, but is working on a car suppose to be easy? Don't let the babies that don't want to get there hands dirty direct you away from good mods.

Complement the LT's with an O/R X pipe and some form of straight through muffler unless chambered give you a more desired sound. 2.5" minimum all the way through.

I agree with the others on not wasting money on TB and 90mm, I basically got mine for free and feel they did very little.

Gears are a must. Get 4.10's since you're concerned about MPG. If you're going to be beating on the car with DR's I'd get the rear end build.

Other than that, you can run 96-01 cobra intake cams and ported intake. Aluminum D/S and some UPR lca & uca would help get that 60' down.

Most important parts, driver mod and awesome tune!
Best of luck!
 

Stopsign32v

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all long tubes have clearance issues..uca will have bind issues...short gears suck balls to drive on the streets and kills roll race runs.. tb wont do shit but cause idle issues.. add lca and panhard bar and just enjoy.. if your not happy with that.. buy a faster car..all your going to do is throw your money away.. learn from people like me.

Sounds like you don't know the correct parts to pick. The only thing I agree with is the throttle body part and still, not all cause idle issues. Stop spreading bad information. :kaboom:
 

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