On3Performance Turbo Kit

Venomhiss

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Everybody knows that a real turbo kit can't cost less then your first born and that its impossible for since metal welded together that wasnt even put thought computer mapping just bent along to find tje best, possible route like ANYONE with decent welding skills can do assuming your not blonde, blind def or dumb. Oh, and nobody ever had fitment issues with there 8k plus kit...EVER right?

On3 confirmed what anyone with half as brain on terms of fabrication with a turbo kit knew all along...hot side and cold side piping does NOT cost more then a billet ball bearing 76mm turbo. 3k for hot side piping when long tube headers,x pipe and cat back cost under 2k made of the same materials from mac. Someone finally said "hey that is a bit of a ripoff, let me open the markets eyes up a bit" and I hope more come to follow.
 

99riocobra

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^ Sounds about right lol.

Going along with that, if you're considering their kit you should at the very least get a better wastegate(Tial, Turbonetics, etc). It seems like that's where the majority of issues come from. Also, I would at least plan on upgrading the turbo..I think they can get you good deals on Masterpowers or Precisions. If you're real snazzy you could also replace the v-band connections with slip fit connections and have no worries about leaks that some people mention.
 

kachup

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dont waist your money...my friend had one and it last him like 8 moth before it cracked and plus they are made in china>that should say it all
 

Wildcard

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Ok Venomhiss I'm going to write back to this one.

Ok turbo kits. Stainless piping about $650-1000 depending on how complex, stainless and tig welding.

Wastegate $250-550 depending on brand

Intercooler, and I don't mean eBay garbage I mean top quality intercooler (Garrett/spearco/hks/greddy, etc)... $750-1000

Intercooler/ cold side piping- aluminum $200-300 *depending on difficulty

Couplers and clamps $100-150 depending on size and how many junctions or couplers will be needed.*

Blow off valve- you can go cheap with the Bosch 1" or go expensive with a $200-300 unit.*

And the fun bit. The turbo. A good turbo- will cost you $650 plus. And that's journal bearing. Size of the turbo will increase the price as well as shrouding/compressor housing/choices of turbine housings/ or different turbine wheel materials etc. Etc. Ball bearing will double the cost, so we will just put it about $650-3000.*

And if you go twins double the turbo and wastegate cost.

All of this so far should be around $2800-5000 (#based on experience as I build kits for a living). And that number not include the fuel system and tuning cost that can run up another $1000.*

So the kits that you are calling a "scam" because they are not $2000 is ignorance on your part. Kits cost a lot of money: R&D (research and development), parts- quality parts... Not $100 eBay turbo or cheap knockoff wastegates, materials, and the tuning work that goes into the tune (if it is included in the kit).*

These are prices that quality parts cost... They're a ball park figure of what you should expect to pay per item. Cheap out on your wastegate and your motor goes boom. Cheap out on your turbo, and you'll be diagnosing boost problems for a long time. Or it smokes, blows seals, eats itself from being unbalanced etc. And if your piping isn't designed correctly you can suffer from overboosting, too much back pressure or choking. Choose your turbo wrong and it will either not boost correctly or max out too early.*

Turbo kits aren't easy. They are a network of many different factors that have to come together in the correct way to keep the car reliable and make power. There's no scam when you see a high price. That's what power cost.*

Jermey Clarkson said it best, "...when have you heard anyone say, "right, i'm going to deploy my cheap and cheerful parachute"? i could have had an expensive heart operation but i decided to go for one that was a cheap and cheerful!"

Some things you want to spend money on. Quality parts, quality materials, etc. Your car is relying on it.*
 
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Venomhiss

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Ok Venomhiss I'm going to write back to this one.

Ok turbo kits. Stainless piping about $650-1000 depending on how complex, stainless and tig welding.

Wastegate $250-550 depending on brand

Intercooler, and I don't mean eBay garbage I mean top quality intercooler (Garrett/spearco/hks/greddy, etc)... $750-1000

Intercooler/ cold side piping- aluminum $200-300 *depending on difficulty

Couplers and clamps $100-150 depending on size and how many junctions or couplers will be needed.*

Blow off valve- you can go cheap with the Bosch 1" or go expensive with a $200-300 unit.*

And the fun bit. The turbo. A good turbo- will cost you $650 plus. And that's journal bearing. Size of the turbo will increase the price as well as shrouding/compressor housing/choices of turbine housings/ or different turbine wheel materials etc. Etc. Ball bearing will double the cost, so we will just put it about $650-3000.*

And if you go twins double the turbo and wastegate cost.

All of this so far should be around $2800-5000 (#based on experience as I build kits for a living). And that number not include the fuel system and tuning cost that can run up another $1000.*

So the kits that you are calling a "scam" because they are not $2000 is ignorance on your part. Kits cost a lot of money: R&D (research and development), parts- quality parts... Not $100 eBay turbo or cheap knockoff wastegates, materials, and the tuning work that goes into the tune (if it is included in the kit).*

These are prices that quality parts cost... They're a ball park figure of what you should expect to pay per item. Cheap out on your wastegate and your motor goes boom. Cheap out on your turbo, and you'll be diagnosing boost problems for a long time. Or it smokes, blows seals, eats itself from being unbalanced etc. And if your piping isn't designed correctly you can suffer from overboosting, too much back pressure or choking. Choose your turbo wrong and it will either not boost correctly or max out too early.*

Turbo kits aren't easy. They are a network of many different factors that have to come together in the correct way to keep the car reliable and make power. There's no scam when you see a high price. That's what power cost.*

Jermey Clarkson said it best, "...when have you heard anyone say, "right, i'm going to deploy my cheap and cheerful parachute"? i could have had an expensive heart operation but i decided to go for one that was a cheap and cheerful!"

Some things you want to spend money on. Quality parts, quality materials, etc. Your car is relying on it.*
Oh I agree totally butI'm taking hot side piping not anything else in terms of its cost. How many custom made hot sides have been popping up here and modular fords that were cost effective. I even had one made years ago in 08 for 1200 down pipes included.


Wg, turbo, etc weren't what I meant. I was just pointinh out hot side pipings crazy cost in most kits

NotEveryone is shooting.for mega numbers and needs the best of the best either. Seems.most race cars are running custom kits. What do you run in terms if turbo kit?
 

Wildcard

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Ok then I misunderstood. My apologies. I usually hear some people arguing the point that it cannot cost that much, and they don't understand that parts add up. A Lincoln Ls kit that I just built cost more that 3 grand in just parts before we even get to the fuel system upgrades.

My kit is custom. Rise Like Lazarus! 4.6L Cobra Super T-76 Rebuild
 

static74

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I just installed the new forward facing kit on my mach 1. It fit like shit, point and simple. Lots of cutting, deleting, and shit that flat out needed modified or replaced.

OK for the cost I guess.
 

99riocobra

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^ Agreed. Curious what didn't fit right. Especially since ModularSpeed on here just installed his and didn't seem to have any fitment issues whatsoever.
 

TRBO VNM

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And this is why there are such variations in kits. The cheaper ones I keep reading and hearing about fitment issues. If you are ok with dealing with those problems and spending the time to figure out how to make it work, that is fine.

the more expensive kits like hellion(which actually reduced all their ford kits), HPP, etc. They are all made so there are no modifications needed. Bassani makes all hellion piping. They have the jigs and made 20+ sets at a time for hellion. So the workmanship is top notch all the time and the kits have been proven time and again with performance and quality.

Another guy locally here had a cheaper kit. I don't know which one, but it did nothing but scrape on everything, his turbo went out in 2 weeks and he had wastegate/bov issues. Now that the car is raised back to stock height, spent money on quality turbo, bov and gate, finally isn't having the problems. But he just dropped the same amount as he would have doing it right the first time.

Some other guy posted on here he got a ebay kit and had to cut open his frame rail to make it fit and all sorts of other crap. It makes no sense to me. Some of you people see a price and jump at it before you know what you are getting into. Before you know it, you are spending weeks fixing things to make it work right.
 

99riocobra

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^ I do like Hellion's pricing more now :). If you take the On3 price and add in a better turbo upgrade and the UPR suspension you're basically at the Hellion price. I just wish Hellion had a forward facing header option...
 
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static74

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If you review Modularspeeds build, he has a manual rack (no powersteering), modified cooling system, no sway bar, no AC, no ABS, etc. He's deleted everything from the car except the essentials. He also went with the smallest turbo size (i went t-76)

So far, I've had to cut my raditor fan to peices so the turbo would fit. Cut apart the bracket for the ABS pump, almost had to delete, for the passenger side wastegate to fit; also delete the ABS pump because the driver side wastegate wouldnt fit. The swaybar mounts hit the downpipe so I had to have a custom one made.

The powersteering lines had to be cut modified and re routed to allow for cold/hot side pipe, and the spyder looking coolant line job ford did had to be heavily modified and cut to fit.

When I called Mike at on3, he simply told me to bend the pipe to make it work. I guess everyone has equipment to bend 10gauge stainless pipe laying around in their garage, oh and welds dont break or stress when bending already bent pipe.

I can post pictures of some of the issues if needed.
 
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mfj

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If you review Modularspeeds build, he has a manual rack (no powersteering), modified cooling system, no sway bar, no AC, no ABS, etc. He's deleted everything from the car except the essentials. He also went with the smallest turbo size (i went t-76)

So far, I've had to cut my raditor fan to peices so the turbo would fit. Cut apart the bracket for the ABS pump, almost had to delete, for the passenger side wastegate to fit; also delete the ABS pump because the driver side wastegate wouldnt fit. The swaybar mounts hit the downpipe so I had to have a custom one made.

The powersteering lines had to be cut modified and re routed to allow for cold/hot side pipe, and the spyder looking coolant line job ford did had to be heavily modified and cut to fit.

When I called Mike at on3, he simply told me to bend the pipe to make it work. I guess everyone has equipment to bend 10gauge stainless pipe laying around in their garage, oh and welds dont break or stress when bending already bent pipe.

I can post pictures of some of the issues if needed.

Wow, sounds like some seriously shitty customer service!
 

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