I have been doing some searching on the topic of cooling mods. To complete the "evans cooling mods" list you must remove the original oil filter assembly for a remote filter system, and in doing so you lose the liquid to liquid oil cooler. The original "evans cooling mods" poster suggests an air to oil cooler. How ever someone suggested that this would not cool as efficently as the original liquid to liquid cooler. I have also read that you can purchase a radiator that has an intergrated cooler. So which way is better? If you think the air to oil cooler is better, who makes a good one?
Oil Cooling Questions
- Thread starter palehorse
- Start date
Whoever said the stock liquid-to-liquid cooler is more efficient hasn't done much research. It cools the oil by heating the coolant... not a good idea. You want nice an air-to-oil cooler w/ thermostat.
Evans now offers a custom radiator that includes an integrated oil cooler. I don't like this setup. Although it makes for a nice package, you are losing all of the cooling capacity for the coolant, effectively reducing the radiator capacity by something like 10-20%. The best setup is to separate the entire system. The only downfall is that this requires more real estate, fittings, and lines.
Evans now offers a custom radiator that includes an integrated oil cooler. I don't like this setup. Although it makes for a nice package, you are losing all of the cooling capacity for the coolant, effectively reducing the radiator capacity by something like 10-20%. The best setup is to separate the entire system. The only downfall is that this requires more real estate, fittings, and lines.
Also, I use an air-to-oil cooler from Fluidyne.
I checked the how to section, but did not find any write ups on installing an oil cooler. Fluidyne sells several different shapes and sizes. What shape and size has been used with success, and how where is it located. Any "kits" out there?
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This really is a DIY type of project. You need to choose the location that you want and determine what is needed to mount it there. Do a search on this board and www.modularfords.com and you will quickly find lots of information and pictures from those of us that have installed the entire system and even helped Evans with a bit of R&D.
Not off the top of my head. I will try to dig up the paperwork, but do some searching and you'll likely find it in one of my threads. We have discussed this numerous times. Good luck! :beer:
Well, I found the 20 page history on the "evans cooling mods" and that did answer my questions. I actually found that string a long time ago but did not take the time to read past the first couple of pages. If anyone else is looking for the history it is at modular fords site and is called keeping it cool.
WDW MKR given you were an integral part to working the bugs out I commend you for sharing all of your information. So now that you have added the t in the lower coolent hose and piped it directly to the thermostat, and run the small flange inlet directly to the expansion tank, has there been any "puking problems?" Also, if the system is now working perfectly how much has it reduced your temperatures in warm weather? Lastly, for someone who will likely never road race or even drag race at the strip, but nonetheless has 500+ HP (my goal) as a daily driver, how necessary is this modification? Perhaps on a scale of 1 to 10? I ask because this modification seems to be an "all or nothing" modification, and the parts alone (if you include a heat exchanger) is about $2,000.
WDW MKR given you were an integral part to working the bugs out I commend you for sharing all of your information. So now that you have added the t in the lower coolent hose and piped it directly to the thermostat, and run the small flange inlet directly to the expansion tank, has there been any "puking problems?" Also, if the system is now working perfectly how much has it reduced your temperatures in warm weather? Lastly, for someone who will likely never road race or even drag race at the strip, but nonetheless has 500+ HP (my goal) as a daily driver, how necessary is this modification? Perhaps on a scale of 1 to 10? I ask because this modification seems to be an "all or nothing" modification, and the parts alone (if you include a heat exchanger) is about $2,000.
You have the routing confused. The thermostat bypass needs to discharge as close to the water pump as possible. That means it gets connected to the nipple on the Evans flange. The expansion tank is then run straight down to the lower radiator hose tee-fitting.
I'm still working to get my new combo on the road, so I can provide recent info. The new line routings appears to have fixed all of the puking issues. I will confirm that with more testing when this new combo is rolling. My initial results showed the mods to lower my summer stop'n'go traffic temps to consistent 180-190. That change is due mostly to the relocated lower temp thermostat. The purpose of this system is for cooling the engine at high RPM and high HP, so you're not going to see drastic improvements at cruising speeds.
Some will disagree with me, but I recommend these mods for any car over 500hp. The data shows our cooling systems to be insufficient for much over stock power levels. Now, that's not to say every car without the Evans mods is going to blow up. If the car rarely ever sees WOT or sustained high RPM, then the cooling system will have time to catch up despite its inadequacies. I'm of the opinion that safety and reliability modificaitons pay for themselves. Make sure you pick up the LDC head cooling mod while you're at it.
I'm still working to get my new combo on the road, so I can provide recent info. The new line routings appears to have fixed all of the puking issues. I will confirm that with more testing when this new combo is rolling. My initial results showed the mods to lower my summer stop'n'go traffic temps to consistent 180-190. That change is due mostly to the relocated lower temp thermostat. The purpose of this system is for cooling the engine at high RPM and high HP, so you're not going to see drastic improvements at cruising speeds.
Some will disagree with me, but I recommend these mods for any car over 500hp. The data shows our cooling systems to be insufficient for much over stock power levels. Now, that's not to say every car without the Evans mods is going to blow up. If the car rarely ever sees WOT or sustained high RPM, then the cooling system will have time to catch up despite its inadequacies. I'm of the opinion that safety and reliability modificaitons pay for themselves. Make sure you pick up the LDC head cooling mod while you're at it.
Also, keep guys like ShadowGray03, ShelbyGuy, TooFast4u, and Cobra Toy in mind. We all worked together to R&D these mods.
WDW MKR said:
I'll make sure I get the piping down right before I start anything. I think I will do this when I hit the 500+ hp range even though I probably fall into the not so necessary driving class. Any amount of $ to help keep the thing from burning up is money well spent in my book. I look forward to a follow up this summer. Thanks for your response.
apg2369 said:
this is similar to the set-up i have. but if you are going with the evans inlet you have to remove the stock oil cooler.
apg2369 said:
The biggest flow restriction in the system is the factory water/oil setup. You definitely want to ditch it if you're looking to improve the system.
So you don't like the Hyland setup?
(sorry wrong post)
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the hyland set-up will help a little to cool the oil but if you want the engine/oil to run cooler then they will need to be seperate. i am going to get the inlet as soon as i sell some things or pay down some of my cc debts.
I'm watching.
oxfordman03 said:
Not for improving the cooling system. It helps to cool the oil by installing an external cooler, which will help to lower engine temps, but it still doesn't remove the flow restriction or eliminate heat transfer between the oil and coolant.
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