oil cooler/heater delete.

[03 svt]

What adapters are available for this? I've rebuilt mine but I think it's still leaking. I would rather be safe and delete it and add a real cooler later on. Would the adapter from a teksid block work on the terminator? I see the frpp one was discontinued. Looking to do this over the weekend thanks

 

[SlowSVT]

MMR sells a nice outlet adapter.

to do this job right plan on it taking more than a weekend. There is a lot more going on here, have you sorted the rest of the system?

 

[03 svt]

Well I was just hoping to do a delete by swapping a 2v or another stock ford filter adapter and add a sandwich style or better set up later. Mine is mixing coolant in the oil and is got to go. I rebuilt it and still seem to have water. Not risking it.

 

[03 svt]

So I was going some one has some experience with thIs and knew if there were a direct swap out.

 

[SlowSVT]

Well I was just hoping to do a delete by swapping a 2v or another stock ford filter adapter and add a sandwich style or better set up later. Mine is mixing coolant in the oil and is got to go. I rebuilt it and still seem to have water. Not risking it.

You can do that but I would not run without one for too long the oil cooler other job is to protect the integrity of the oil itself.

here's something to consider for the other end.

http://petersonfluidsys.com/filter_mount.html

This is the easy part. Setting up the oil cooler is where it gets a little dicey. Where best to have the inlet and outlet on the remote filter is very important so make sure you figure out how your going to route you lines. You may find out what worked without the cooler suddenly doesn't with a cooler. I would factor in an oil thermostat as well, Mocal makes a nice one.

 

[03 svt]

Very good info. I do intend to make a nice set up, but currently need to quickly rule out that the oil cooler is my issue. I believe it is. I have 150 compression across the board. It runs strong.

 

[Nightmare302]

You can do that but I would not run without one for too long the oil cooler other job is to protect the integrity of the oil itself.

here's something to consider for the other end.

http://petersonfluidsys.com/filter_mount.html

This is the easy part. Setting up the oil cooler is where it gets a little dicey. Where best to have the inlet and outlet on the remote filter is very important so make sure you figure out how your going to route you lines. You may find out what worked without the cooler suddenly doesn't with a cooler. I would factor in an oil thermostat as well, Mocal makes a nice one.

The oil cooler is worthless. It's basic job is to heat the oil up quicker that's about it. Millions of cars are run without "oil coolers". It's a totally worthless headache that's not needed. A real air oil cooler is a nice unit, the coolant ones are junk. I ran a 2v outlet with a torktech relocated thermostat. Works perfectly.

 

[03 svt]

I tried using an outlet I have from a teksid block and the water outlet runs right into the back of the alternator. Looking for a cheap way out

 

[SlowSVT]

The oil cooler is worthless. It's basic job is to heat the oil up quicker that's about it. Millions of cars are run without "oil coolers". It's a totally worthless headache that's not needed. A real air oil cooler is a nice unit, the coolant ones are junk. I ran a 2v outlet with a torktech relocated thermostat. Works perfectly.

I don't think anyone was endorsing the factory oil-to-water "heat exchanger". Calling it a "cooler" is a bit of a stretch. Oil is a pretty crappy heat conductor anyway but a big cooler filling the LH brake duct is a nice way to shed BTU's. Oil doesn't like getting too hot and will last longer if kept below 200 degrees.

 

[FMD]

@03 svt, Did you figure out a solution? Thats the predicament im in right now. I bought a 2v one off a friend it just hits the back of the alternator. Thank you.

 

[03 svt]

I ended up with an mmr plate, quick connect 10AN lines and a remote oil filter mount from summit. All together was around 300!!

 

[Snake Plissken]

I ended up with an mmr plate, quick connect 10AN lines and a remote oil filter mount from summit. All together was around 300!!

What did you do about the lower coolant hose? Did you get a specific hose with a part number? (I'd be interested in that part #) I guess your not running a air oil cooler in your set-up? Thanks...

I have the MMR plate, lines, fitting and remote oil filter mount, but at my low power level (470) I wasn't sure if a air cooler would be a benefit.

 

[03 svt]

I didn't run one. I did a lot of research and several people couldn't even get there oil up to temp with one. And millions of engines don't even have one. I think it was more ofa heater than cooler. I bought a really nice flexible line from a hot rod shop near me. I can't remember the brand ir the length. Is a really sturdy corrugated rubber. If I can find the brand ill odd it up

 

[Snake Plissken]

I didn't run one. I did a lot of research and several people couldn't even get there oil up to temp with one. And millions of engines don't even have one. I think it was more ofa heater than cooler. I bought a really nice flexible line from a hot rod shop near me. I can't remember the brand ir the length. Is a really sturdy corrugated rubber. If I can find the brand ill odd it up

I agree. The factory sucks because of the leak possibilities, I thought I read their idea behind it had something to do with emissions. The quicker the oil up to temp the quicker your within acceptable emissions. I could be wrong there, lord knows I've been before. lol!

I believe if you run a air oil cooler you must run a thermostat. The oil has to get to a certain temp so it burns-off any water condensation, then it opens up and circulates.

Damn! Why didn't I think of that. That makes perfect sense, simple, a universal hose. I'll have to check the hot rod shop not to far from me.

Thanks!

 

[SlowSVT]

I didn't run one. I did a lot of research and several people couldn't even get there oil up to temp with one. And millions of engines don't even have one. I think it was more ofa heater than cooler. I bought a really nice flexible line from a hot rod shop near me. I can't remember the brand ir the length. Is a really sturdy corrugated rubber. If I can find the brand ill odd it up

avoid corrugated hose at all cost as it's terrible for flow. A thermostat is needed for an air-to-oil cooler.

 

[MalcolmV8]

For those that say the stock cooler is complete junk and worthless.... I have a question. All the threads I read on deleting the factory cooler and going to a remote oil to air cooler show about a 30F drop in coolant temp when tracking their cars. That tells me the factory unit was heating the coolant some 30F. Maybe not huge but that's heat that was been shed by the oil into the coolant. Seems like it actually was cooling the oil and in turn heating the coolant or am I missing something?

 

[SlowSVT]

For those that say the stock cooler is complete junk and worthless.... I have a question. All the threads I read on deleting the factory cooler and going to a remote oil to air cooler show about a 30F drop in coolant temp when tracking their cars. That tells me the factory unit was heating the coolant some 30F. Maybe not huge but that's heat that was been shed by the oil into the coolant. Seems like it actually was cooling the oil and in turn heating the coolant or am I missing something?

Malcolm I'm with you on this one.

Anyone claiming an air-to-oil HE will drop oil temps by 30 degrees is only doing so to make themselves feel justified for installing one in the first place. The temp differential between the inlet and output of the rad will only be a few degrees but represent a huge transfer of heat energy when you consider the volume of fluid moving thru the system. Oil is a crappy conductor of heat anyhow.

On the other hand the factory oil cooler just dumps the heat into the coolant where the rad needs to get rid of it. An air-to oil cooler will sequester that heat from the rest of the system but you will never see anything more than a 2 degree drop in actual temperature regardless of what you do. Claiming a 30 degree temperature drop is not even close to reality :nonono:

 

[Snake Plissken]

avoid corrugated hose at all cost as it's terrible for flow. A thermostat is needed for an air-to-oil cooler.

 

[SlowSVT]

View attachment 56771

Smooth inside wall hose "good"

By definition this is "ribbed" tubing to prevent the hose from collapsing not "corrugated". With a smooth wall you loose the advantage of flexibility of a corrugated hose but not at the expense of flow.

 

[SnakeBit]

Aren't those hoses better for bottom of radiator to water pump inlet? You don't want that tube to collapse under suction and the flow doesn't need to be so laminar on the inlet side of the pump. The rest of the hoses should be smooth because there is less likelihood of hose collapsing under pressure.