Oil Change at 800 miles

HAMMRHEAD

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Mine started showing the same at 900+ miles, then went to change oil. I just reset it.

I made it to 650 miles before it said 'oil change required'(I think that's what it said?). I reset it as well.


I've owned the car for 10+ months now and I'm at 685 miles.
 

Cman01

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I did my first change at around the 1000km. mark (about a month and a bit after picking up the car in Sept. last year).

I drove it for 2 months and racked up another 2000kms. before parking it for the winter in Nov.

I just got it going last weekend. The instant I started it up after storing it for 5 months the dash gave me the warning to change the oil.

Personally there's nothing wrong with the oil. I'm going to reset the OLM and drive it a bit more before changing it. I'm going to Carlisle for the Ford Nationals next month and snaking my way towards Summit racing before heading home before changing it. Timing it perfectly to have fresh oil and brake fluid before my romp on Mosport in July with the Shelby.
 

usmotox

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We did 3000 first change and the car had an easy life till then I now do it every 5k the computer can be set to remind you by the dealer.
 

BCPD199

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I always change mine on a new car at 1,000 miles (to get all the metal flakes out) then I proceed to beat on the car

I change it again at 2500 and at 5,000....then I go to 5,000 intervals

with my performance cars I only drive them 2,000-2500 a year, so I just change them before I put them in storage

Exactly what I do.
 

biminiLX

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Exactly what I do.

ditto.

Here's a question I always wondered and I guess could be argued, but for those of us with winter climates, do you recommend:
1) park the car with dirty oil and change before firing up in the spring?
2) change oil before parking car in winter and just firing and enjoying in the spring?

I do #1, but always wanted to ask.
Also, I have a trickle charger, but I've found my last new car ('04 Cobra) never needed it.
I never start the cars over the winter, they are stored in a heated garage.
-J
:beer:
 

Chris!

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As soon as I hit 1200kms (800 ish miles), the "oil change required" came up on the digital dash.

You're in Canada- I assume that your car sat for about 6mos between use (over the winter)? The light will come on- if it's been 6mos and no oil change has been performed.
 

BCPD199

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ditto.

Here's a question I always wondered and I guess could be argued, but for those of us with winter climates, do you recommend:
1) park the car with dirty oil and change before firing up in the spring?
2) change oil before parking car in winter and just firing and enjoying in the spring?

I do #1, but always wanted to ask.
Also, I have a trickle charger, but I've found my last new car ('04 Cobra) never needed it.
I never start the cars over the winter, they are stored in a heated garage.
-J
:beer:

From my boating days, I can tell you #1 is the wrong way and here is why. Dirty oil has acids that have accumulated in it. When you park it (or winter store your boat), that acid has time to etch into the bearings. The preferred method of long term storage is get the engine up to operating temperature, drain the oil and refill with new oil and filter. Re-start, check for leaks (this also gives the fresh oil time to coat everything and then put it to bed. Any condensation that forms over the winter time will burn off the first time you start it up and get it up to normal operating temperature in the spring. Depending on layup time, it might not be a bad idea to spray some fogging oil into the cylinders. Note: this may or may not foul your O2 sensors in the spring. This is not an issue with a marine engine. Also, if you're stored in a heated garage and/or dry environment, I would pass on the fogging oil.
 

ford13

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You're in Canada- I assume that your car sat for about 6mos between use (over the winter)? The light will come on- if it's been 6mos and no oil change has been performed.

You are absolutely right Chris. The girl sat for six months and timed out. Got parked in November, and I just took my first ride on the 15th of May.
 

SDBs13GT500

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ditto.

Here's a question I always wondered and I guess could be argued, but for those of us with winter climates, do you recommend:
1) park the car with dirty oil and change before firing up in the spring?
2) change oil before parking car in winter and just firing and enjoying in the spring?

I do #1, but always wanted to ask.
Also, I have a trickle charger, but I've found my last new car ('04 Cobra) never needed it.
I never start the cars over the winter, they are stored in a heated garage.
-J
:beer:
I have always done number 1. I do not use a trickle charger but I will on average once to twice a month start the car and let it run for 20 minutes or so just to circulate fluids. It also keeps seals and gaskets from drying out. At least that is what I have heard and tend to believe. I owned an 03 Cobra and it still had the original battery when I traded it in on the 13.
 

Franz

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From my boating days, I can tell you #1 is the wrong way and here is why. Dirty oil has acids that have accumulated in it. When you park it (or winter store your boat), that acid has time to etch into the bearings. The preferred method of long term storage is get the engine up to operating temperature, drain the oil and refill with new oil and filter. Re-start, check for leaks (this also gives the fresh oil time to coat everything and then put it to bed. Any condensation that forms over the winter time will burn off the first time you start it up and get it up to normal operating temperature in the spring. Depending on layup time, it might not be a bad idea to spray some fogging oil into the cylinders. Note: this may or may not foul your O2 sensors in the spring. This is not an issue with a marine engine. Also, if you're stored in a heated garage and/or dry environment, I would pass on the fogging oil.

This is what I have heard as well. Fresh fluid, then park it.
 

Norton

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From my boating days, I can tell you #1 is the wrong way and here is why. Dirty oil has acids that have accumulated in it. When you park it (or winter store your boat), that acid has time to etch into the bearings. The preferred method of long term storage is get the engine up to operating temperature, drain the oil and refill with new oil and filter. Re-start, check for leaks (this also gives the fresh oil time to coat everything and then put it to bed. Any condensation that forms over the winter time will burn off the first time you start it up and get it up to normal operating temperature in the spring. Depending on layup time, it might not be a bad idea to spray some fogging oil into the cylinders. Note: this may or may not foul your O2 sensors in the spring. This is not an issue with a marine engine. Also, if you're stored in a heated garage and/or dry environment, I would pass on the fogging oil.
This is what I have heard as well. Fresh fluid, then park it.
x3.
 

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