Oil catch cans need advice

upnorthguy

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Hey guys I'm new member and just bought a 2011 GT500 with 900 miles on it and don't want any oil in the blower. I have been reading about JLT vs Bob's catch cans on this forum. Last week I was helping a friend remove his blower and lower intake because he was sending it out for porting. He has 70K and the blower and lower were filled with oil. He bought the car with 68k on it and it never had a catch can previous installed. The lower was almost completely plugged.

My question is I have a 2 JLT's on my car now can I plug the passenger side port on the blower and not connect hose from the catch to it. Reading the forums it seems like there is always a small amount of oil getting past the catch cans. Has anyone tried this. Would the catch can work without being connected to the blower?
 

dirtyo2000

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If pluged how would you vent the crankcase. If its that serious you can install a pipe to the header or add an evac pump to do away with the blower. Either way there will be oil. Smoke out the pipe or can under the Hood. There will be oil
 

PistolWhip

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I now have the Bob's separator on the passenger side and the JLT on the driver side. I used to have just the JLT on the passenger side; I had the blower off a few months ago to swap on the TVS and had no oil issues to be concerned with after about 5k miles.

I only upgraded to the Bobs for looks and since the fittings on the JLT broke. JLT sent me a brand new separator with upgraded aluminum fittings so I decided to use it on the driver side rather than sell it. I'd be willing to bet that the passenger side separator, whichever you choose, will be enough to keep the intercoooler clean. Most say the driver side is overkill but I did notice some residual oil in the intake track prior to installing the JLT over there.

Both companies are great to deal with and have taken care of any issues I had quickly and efficiently.

I would not plug either side, as specially if you don't use a breather. You need to vent the crank case pressure somehow and plugging either side will eliminate the positive ventilation. If you already have two cans, leave it alone and don't worry about it. Any residual oil that gets through will not be enough to cause a problem or gunk up the intercoooler.
 
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MalcolmV8

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IMO those JLT units are way to small to completely stop the oil. They have wire mesh type stuff in them which will certainly slow it down though.
I have a boosted Honda that was pushing up way to much oil and what I did was mount a catch can on the firewall about 4" in diameter. The idea is to have a large volume so the air slows down and the oil droplets in suspension will fall to the bottom. I then plumbed a hose from the bottom of the can to the oil pan for a return so it's 100% maintenance free. Never requires emptying.
If your oil problems are really that bad you may consider building a real catch can setup like that.
 

PistolWhip

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Malcom, unless you have a check valve or some sort of shut off on your return line, you're basically just returning the vented pressure from the crank case back into the crank case. Unless I'm misunderstanding what your doing here, it's a counter productive approach. If you have it set up with a valve of some sort, it should work well.
 

Steve@BAS

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^Further it's contaminated oil, I wouldn't want it back in my engine.

OP, check out the Bobs Catch cans. Available from us directly or give a call to Van at Revan racing! Bob's Auto Sports
 

MalcolmV8

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Malcom, unless you have a check valve or some sort of shut off on your return line, you're basically just returning the vented pressure from the crank case back into the crank case. Unless I'm misunderstanding what your doing here, it's a counter productive approach. If you have it set up with a valve of some sort, it should work well.

Sorry valve covers to catch can for functionality and then drain back to oil pan for maintenance free.

^Further it's contaminated oil, I wouldn't want it back in my engine.

There's nothing contaminated about it. It's the oil from my cylinder head/block area that's getting sucked out due to the high velocity of air leaving the valve cover. The air slows down in the catch can due to the large diameter of the catch can and the oil droplets in suspension settle down due to gravity and go right back to the pan where it came from. It's a clean closed system. Yes you could also have a breather on top of the catch can to release air pressure depending on your design (valve cover to intake or just valve cover pressure release) but that's no different than a breather that you stick on your valve cover.
 

jenkins_1120

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Saw this on FB and thought it fit.

dydytyhy.jpg



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Steve@BAS

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lol, that is my kitchen right now, never enough hours in the day to finish everything at work. I will be bringing it to the shop this weekend (or monday at the latest), and having the compressor blow air through them, and have an atomizer spraying measured amounts of oil into each via a T, so test will be the same for each product, giving real measurable results. :beer:
 

jenkins_1120

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Hmm just looking at the placement if the fitments I could see this being a one sided test


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jenkins_1120

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Not sure where I was going with that i did have a few drinks after work so maybe it made more sense to me then. I might've been thinking b/c the fitting are on top and would just let some oil pass through unlike the bobs where it comes up from the bottom and passes through the mesh


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