No crank, no start - assistance needed diagnosing

speedoflife

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Hello fellows.

I am having a problem with my Cobra that surfaced out of nowhere. Everything seems totally fine with the car (dash lights, accessories, etc.) until I try to turn the key from 'run' to 'ignition.' As soon as I make the turn to try to start it, I hear one (sometimes two, but the second is more faint) loud click and then everything is dead. After the loud click (which I assume is the starter engaging), no accessories will work, no door chime when the key is in - nothing. If I pull the ground from the battery and let everything reset, I am back at square one with a seemingly functioning car until key turn, click, dead.

This thread has a lot of good information that is very, very relevant if anyone tries to help me out:
https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...-engages-but-doesnt-spin-the-flywheel.736798/

Now it's easy to assume that I have a bad ground somewhere - I looked a few spots and couldn't find anything definitive.

Furthermore, when I add a ground directly from the terminal to the engine block/chassis, nothing changes!!!

My battery it totally fine, I promise. My car hasn't had any issues starting in the past. No codes are being thrown. I haven't found any blown fuses.

Please help me out here. I just had to tow away my significant other's car because I couldn't get it to start (when it rains it pours). I really need to get one of our vehicles back on the road!
 

jrichber

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How is the negative terminal on your battery? Have you tried cleaning the terminals and cables? Check ground wires to be loose, as well as maybe check the wires connecting to your starter.
 

GDDYUP

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Do you have a voltmeter? Measure your battery voltage before you try to start it and then after.
 

bigmoose

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Sure sounds like battey to me. How did you confirm its not the battery? New batteries can go bad. Try jumping it.

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speedoflife

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How is the negative terminal on your battery? Have you tried cleaning the terminals and cables? Check ground wires to be loose, as well as maybe check the wires connecting to your starter.
Brand new terminals - super clean. I haven't checked the starter wires. I'm gonna get it in the air.

Do you have a voltmeter? Measure your battery voltage before you try to start it and then after.
I've got a voltmeter. Battery is at 12.52v and is a 3 month old red top.

Maybe it's a PATs problem? Thinks it's getting stolen?


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How would I check for this? Why would it come out of nowhere?

Sure sounds like battey to me. How did you confirm its not the battery? New batteries can go bad. Try jumping it.

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I've tried starting it with another (different) battery that I know is good and the same exact thing happens.

I had this same problem with a Ford truck a few years ago. Ford explained the key went bad and had to program another key.
I'll go try to start it with a different key. I have a spare.
 

speedoflife

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I had this same problem with a Ford truck a few years ago. Ford explained the key went bad and had to program another key.
Spare key produced the exact same click click nothing.

The "click" is different from the sound that a car makes when trying to start with a dying battery. It's more powerful.

Why do all of my electrical components completely fail after the click occurs? And why will they work again if I leave the car for an hour or so and come back?
 

hotcobra03

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I say turn key to run position and push start car.


This will rule out some items and point to others. .

After it goes click and dies..does car seem to freak out with dashes in odometer. Gages sweaping.radio go black..

I had issues with grounds on radiator support ..

Inside wire casing where you can't see and cracked terminals..
 

speedoflife

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Yesterday.... I drove it to work and drove it back home. Nothing abnormal whatsoever. Parked it in the driveway, went to start it 2 hours later and there you go. Out of nowhere.
 

Skitzerman

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It could be the Clutch Pedal Position switch, Starter Relay, Starter Solenoid or the Starter Motor itself. The Starter Relay is in the Power Distribution Box in the Engine Bay.

In the starter system, you have a 40A fuse in the Battery Junction Box, in the Central Ignition Box Fuse #6 (20A) and Fuse #24 (10A).
 
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MG0h3

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Hope I didnt miss it but whats the BATT voltage when the failure occurs? Have you worked your way down the circuit (batt posts, terms, ends, etc) A bad connection can "fail" when put under load and it can give every symptom of a dead battery.
 

ashleyroachclip

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You said new cable ends.
I never like replacement ends.
I would go back, open those up , and recheck them .have you checked the positive cable , be sure it is clean and tight also ?
 

MG0h3

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Checking anything without a voltmeter doesnt cut it. I connection can look perfect and it will fail, most likely while attempting to crank as thats the highest load.
 

TxCobra76

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I had an ignition switch go bad on me and it did similar things. It was on a GM truck but should be basically the same. I thought it was a starter, battery, cables also but ended up simple ignition switch fixed it.


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Skitzerman

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Get yourself a Multimeter and start checking circuits. I have a Fluke but you can get them a lot cheaper if you look around. They are invaluable when tracking down electrical gremlins.
 

Awtblo

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I second push starting it, recheck your terminal ends, and starter

As well as monitoring your voltage while attempting to crank.
 

MG0h3

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Not sure why we would push start it. In fact, we need it to be failing to diagnose the problem.
 

Awtblo

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@MG0h3

My reasoning is just to rule out a bad spot in the fly wheel or stuck bendix, pushing it will rule out both.

When it runs, if the bendix is stuck it'll kick it out due to sheer speed. Just turning it by hand won't do that.
 

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