Nitrous users NEED OPINIONS ASAP

[z-eater]

go for the wet kit.
when i have did dyno on my car, it put 580 RWHP 637 TQ
and air and fuel is fine so i didnt even tuned the car. no smoke or nothing behind me. and everything was 560.00 dollars.
just dont get to gredy with it. dont spray more without checking air-fuel.
my friend has a 03 with 200 shoot on it and ran 10.30 no problems at all.
i still have a stock IRS no problems so far.

 

[Swervedriver]

Spraying a pullied Cobra is hairy! Using a dry kit into the MAF with a 2.8" upper is going to put the MAF at it's limit before the 75 jet! Jet placement is very critical with this configuration as well. With that being said; there are ways to make it work.

Wet kits to take care of the MAF limits, but at the cost of a suddon drop in fuel rail pressure. Also, the stock pumps aren't going to be able to supply that kind of flow rate. The BAP is a great little device that does it's job a LOT better then I thought it would.

The old style dry kits would add pressure to the vac port of the FPR to reduce the fuel returned to the tank. The end result was a tunable rail pressure. The more the rail pressure the richer the A/F with the same injector duty cycle. This CAN BE DONE on an '03 Cobra because it has a pressure port on the FRPS. You dead head the stock pumps, but the BAP took care of this completely for me. The Edelbrock dry nitrous kit works this way, and I'm spraying a lot of nitrous after the MAF and things are working quite well.

Don't forget to retard the timing as well as reduce the gap of your plugs (which better be a cool heat range already).

Good luck with it whatever you choose.

 

[JTSVT]

Spraying a pullied Cobra is hairy! Using a dry kit into the MAF with a 2.8" upper is going to put the MAF at it's limit before the 75 jet! Jet placement is very critical with this configuration as well. With that being said; there are ways to make it work.

Wet kits to take care of the MAF limits, but at the cost of a suddon drop in fuel rail pressure. Also, the stock pumps aren't going to be able to supply that kind of flow rate. The BAP is a great little device that does it's job a LOT better then I thought it would.

The old style dry kits would add pressure to the vac port of the FPR to reduce the fuel returned to the tank. The end result was a tunable rail pressure. The more the rail pressure the richer the A/F with the same injector duty cycle. This CAN BE DONE on an '03 Cobra because it has a pressure port on the FRPS. You dead head the stock pumps, but the BAP took care of this completely for me. The Edelbrock dry nitrous kit works this way, and I'm spraying a lot of nitrous after the MAF and things are working quite well.

Don't forget to retard the timing as well as reduce the gap of your plugs (which better be a cool heat range already).

Good luck with it whatever you choose.

So your suggesting the Dry Kit or your saying either but if the Wet kit make sure to get a BAP (or would I need the BAP for either)....I already have NGK TR6's cant remember the gap for em though but thats an easy check.....Great feedback, please keep it coming.....Thx again---Jon

EDIT: Moy mods are in my sig above, but I will be adding the following also if this helps you in your suggestion:

4LB Lower kit
LFP Heat Exchanger
Ported Blower
Subframes----doesnt really apply here
H&R race springs---doesnt really apply
SuperChip tune (Ill have 4 different tunes--Street tune-Street/Race tune-Race tune-Nitrous tune)......Thx again guys---Jon

 

[Swervedriver]

So your suggesting the Dry Kit or your saying either but if the Wet kit make sure to get a BAP (or would I need the BAP for either)

Either way you should do a Boost a pump or Aviator pumps and a larger wire to supply current to them. BAP is less expensive, easier to install, and works great.

I have my plugs gapped to .030" now. They are Autolite AR103's which is the equiv. heat range as your TR6's.

Also, I wouldn't recommend the spray through the MAF nitrous setup on a pulleyed '03 Cobra. I've heard a lot of people post & talk negative about wet kits & fuel puddling but I have no first hand experience. Apparently the Lightning guys have been doing it through a more convoluted path then our for quite some time.

 

[z-eater]

my NX goes right before the throt.body
and its a full throt. switch.

 

[Detroit_Doc]

I don't think he'll be pegging that maf with a 75 shot dry shot, thanks for explaining how fuel systems work, the maf will add fuel when a 75 shot is running through it. The critical component is that he leave the MAF screen IN! The screen mixes the air so the maf gets a more consistent sample when reading as the maf only rates a sample of the air that moves through.

Ouch... yes the MAF measures the 02 not the n20. Do you even know how a MAF works? It's a heated wire that measures how much voltage it takes to keep it at a specific temp. It only measures to +5.5 volts usually. It assumes based on how much voltage it takes to heat the wire how much air is passing over it.

I doubt there is a linear equation between the amount of N20 and Air (a mix of 02 and plenty of other stuff). As such deciding the N20 will cool the MAF wire at the same rate as air (per 02 volume) is decidedly schetchy in my opinion.

 

[SVTHorsnake]

Ouch... yes the MAF measures the 02 not the n20. Do you even know how a MAF works? It's a heated wire that measures how much voltage it takes to keep it at a specific temp. It only measures to +5.5 volts usually. It assumes based on how much voltage it takes to heat the wire how much air is passing over it.

I doubt there is a linear equation between the amount of N20 and Air (a mix of 02 and plenty of other stuff). As such deciding the N20 will cool the MAF wire at the same rate as air (per 02 volume) is decidedly schetchy in my opinion.

I appreciate you being so smart. It's not direct, but it's damned close. Thanks for your input and explaining to me how a MAF works, but I already knew. oke: having the temp sensor in helps too.

EDIT: how's that 2007 cobra working for you?

 

[JTSVT]

I ended up going w/ a Dry Kit....the guy at me shop recommended it and my buddy has been running his dry shot @ 75 w/ no problems....its evidentally the "safer" alternative for blown Cobras......at least thats what the general knowledgable guys are saying.....So here we go!---JT

 

[Blk03GT]

We use the same style blower in our kits (Jackson Racing, I know, I know, but least I drive a Mustang ).
And when you loose effic. and your blower starts to not put the power down and makes more heat, take a look at what the rotors look like after suckin N20 through it. It'll take the coating off the roots.

We can tell everytime someone tries to send one in for warr....

Other than that, the sh*t is AWESOME.

 

[Swervedriver]

We use the same style blower in our kits (Jackson Racing, I know, I know, but least I drive a Mustang ).
And when you loose effic. and your blower starts to not put the power down and makes more heat, take a look at what the rotors look like after suckin N20 through it. It'll take the coating off the roots.

We can tell everytime someone tries to send one in for warr....

Other than that, the sh*t is AWESOME.

This was a problem with the Lightnings (even without nitrous) that was supposedly corrected in 2003.

 

[SVTHorsnake]

I ended up going w/ a Dry Kit....the guy at me shop recommended it and my buddy has been running his dry shot @ 75 w/ no problems....its evidentally the "safer" alternative for blown Cobras......at least thats what the general knowledgable guys are saying.....So here we go!---JT

good choice! Let us know what you think. Enjoy th power! :burnout:

 

[ITSTOCK]

I know I'm late and you already got your kit, but you will NOT regret it. Just be aware that your stock clutch may not last long on any nitrous shot.

I am currently running a .041 jet (I switch jets about every week depending on race gas or not) on 94 octane (about a 75 shot, although, according to some companies, like NOS, it is a 100 shot). I plan on running a 175 shot first day out in march, with the addition of 60# injectors, BAP, and MAFxtender. I also have a 2.76 pulley, O/R xpipe, and JLT cold air. I am CURRENTLY on stock everything else, minus et streets and a new clutch that will be going in this week. Do NOT take anybodys advice serious that claims a wet kit is safer than a dry kit on these cars. The fact of the matter is, unless you don't have a MAF or are running it post MAF, the dry kit is JUST AS SAFE AS THE WET KIT, NEITHER IS SAFER THAN THE OTHER.

 

[Kid Smitty]

I recently dynoed to test a/f with 39 shot (dry - before MAF, WOT, Window switch set at 3500-6200).

W/o shot 477rwhp/453rwt. a/f = 12-12.5 range

W/ shot torque went to 525 instantly and stayed there. A/f shot instantly to 14 then back down to high 12's ( within 300- 400 rpm) but continued to hover close to 13. I shut it down at 4800 rpm where hp was 480. 60 more horses than w/o shot at same rpm. The dyno tech thinks it was gonna do 550. Yeah, I might be able to run this multiple times without blowing the car up, but why risk it (this is one expensive ass motor to replace).

I assume "cold mode" kicked in to add fuel but was not enough. I have closed the bottle off until I can determine appropriate way to add fuel.

Bottom line - NOT AS SAFE AS YOU THINK.

CHECK YOUR A/F'S - DON'T TRUST WHAT OTHERS CLAIM AS "SAFE ON THEIR CARS"!

 

[ITSTOCK]

I recently dynoed to test a/f with 39 shot (dry - before MAF, WOT, Window switch set at 3500-6200).

W/o shot 477rwhp/453rwt. a/f = 12-12.5 range

W/ shot torque went to 525 instantly and stayed there. A/f shot instantly to 14 then back down to high 12's ( within 300- 400 rpm) but continued to hover close to 13. I shut it down at 4800 rpm where hp was 480. 60 more horses than w/o shot at same rpm. The dyno tech thinks it was gonna do 550. Yeah, I might be able to run this multiple times without blowing the car up, but why risk it (this is one expensive ass motor to replace).

I assume "cold mode" kicked in to add fuel but was not enough. I have closed the bottle off until I can determine appropriate way to add fuel.

Bottom line - NOT AS SAFE AS YOU THINK.

CHECK YOUR A/F'S - DON'T TRUST WHAT OTHERS CLAIM AS "SAFE ON THEIR CARS"!

Just curious, but why did you not shut down even sooner??? Running close to 13:1 on these cars is extremely dangerous no matter what. You might want to change your tune aroudn a little, you really shouldn't just throw on nitrous with no tune :rollseyes .

Of course you should get your A/F checked, but if your tuner is good, it's safe :banana: . I have had 4 bottles through my car with zero problems, and don't plan on having any. After another tune and fuel system upgrades, I don't anticipate any problems with the 175 DRY shot either :banana: :banana: .

 

[JTSVT]

Just curious, but why did you not shut down even sooner??? Running close to 13:1 on these cars is extremely dangerous no matter what. You might want to change your tune aroudn a little, you really shouldn't just throw on nitrous with no tune :rollseyes .

Of course you should get your A/F checked, but if your tuner is good, it's safe :banana: . I have had 4 bottles through my car with zero problems, and don't plan on having any. After another tune and fuel system upgrades, I don't anticipate any problems with the 175 DRY shot either :banana: :banana: .

Bump to that tune is EVERYTHING when running the gas......then plan/setup accordingly...

 

[94306gt]

Its all on ur prefrence on weather to go dry or wet. Personally i like my Nx wet kit with the shark nozzle that u just drill right into the intake b4b the throttle body. Ive sprayed a 75 shot for a year and a half and havent had ne problems. only had to change the spark plugs twice

 

[juiced96snake]

with some of these post it makes me wonder if you even know how nitrous works....