Ngk tr7ix assembled in Thailand..
- Thread starter WicK
- Start date
I ran the TR7IX plugs in my old 13 GT500 for awhile and was suggested by Lund to switch to the BR7EFs. Never thought much of it. Sold that car and since I've owned this 14 I've always ran the BR7EFs, since I switch to E85 with the Gen3 TVS the car always has a hard time starting (which is expected on E85) but it's a little excessive, also the car has some other weird little driveability issues. I just put in a fresh set of BR7s but it didn't change a thing and I know the tune is dialed in. I was about to buy a set of TR7s than after talking to a few high HP GT500 guys they just kept saying stick with the BR7EFs, mostly because a Iridium plug runs hot compared to a copper plug, but I'm on E85 so I would think E85 would be ok with a hotter plug, at this point I just want to see if the TR7s fix some of the stupid issues I'm having.
I'm about 19 to 20 psi with the Gen3 TVS on a 2.4 upper, ill probably run the TR7IXs gapped at .27 as well.
With good fuel and proper timing. You should be ok. TUNE is everything.
I wasn't trying to imply that 19 PSI was exceptionally high or unsafe. In context... WicK asked about using TR7-IX plugs. I confirmed they work well for me. He installed them and reported improved idle and driveability, but wondered about spark blowout with 0.030" gap. I confirmed that mine have been great for 4 years and 12K miles configured the same way. me32 questioned my maintenance regimen and mentioned that 19+ PSI would require changing BR7EFs every 5k miles or once a year. I asked who's running 19+ PSI, since I hadn't seen that mentioned previously in this thread. FWIW, I agree with me32 and 2011 gtcs - with proper tuning, it shouldn't be a problem.
Got it. If you're concerned about heat range, I recall a discussion with @biminiLX about TR8-IX (NGK Stock# 3691) being suitable when pushing higher boost levels. (I can't locate the discussion, but maybe he'll chime-in to confirm.)
I would think the TR7IXs will be ok, I already ordered a set so I'll put them and do a quick WOT log to make sure everything looks good. I'm interested to see if it improves the driveability.
Watch out for Adam’s apples......l
^^^ Been there - done that.
Swapped out the BR7EFs and put in the TR7IXs gapped at .27, the car does seem to start a little better, throttle response is definitely improved, I still have a small driveability issue I've never been able to figure out. Did a WOT pull, had negative knock all through the pull and A/Fs looked good. Lund tuned it so I know it's safe. I'm
Side by side comparison
I think I'm going to maybe also try the Brisk GR12S plugs, I use to run those in my 13 GT500 with the 3.6KB.
Brisk Racing GR12S Spark Plugs - Silver (GT500 and Cobra)
Side by side comparison
I think I'm going to maybe also try the Brisk GR12S plugs, I use to run those in my 13 GT500 with the 3.6KB.
Brisk Racing GR12S Spark Plugs - Silver (GT500 and Cobra)
Swapped out the BR7EFs and put in the TR7IXs gapped at .27, the car does seem to start a little better, throttle response is definitely improved, I still have a small driveability issue I've never been able to figure out. Did a WOT pull, had negative knock all through the pull and A/Fs looked good. Lund tuned it so I know it's safe. I'm
Side by side comparison
I think I'm going to maybe also try the Brisk GR12S plugs, I use to run those in my 13 GT500 with the 3.6KB.
Brisk Racing GR12S Spark Plugs - Silver (GT500 and Cobra)
What plugs did Lund recommend for your setup?
The only couple of downsides ive experienced with the BR7 are hesitation when the car is not warmed up and short life. But once car is to temp if runs great. Even fires right up when cold.
Thats awesome!! What drivability problem if I might ask? Might be a tps thingSwapped out the BR7EFs and put in the TR7IXs gapped at .27, the car does seem to start a little better, throttle response is definitely improved, I still have a small driveability issue I've never been able to figure out. Did a WOT pull, had negative knock all through the pull and A/Fs looked good. Lund tuned it so I know it's safe. I'm
Side by side comparison
I think I'm going to maybe also try the Brisk GR12S plugs, I use to run those in my 13 GT500 with the 3.6KB.
Brisk Racing GR12S Spark Plugs - Silver (GT500 and Cobra)
Dakota tuned the car and he never specified a plug and I didn't ask. With my other 3.6KB 13 GT500, Lund Jr tuned that car and looking back through my emails he said to use the Brisk GR12S plugs, the GR12s plug is almost identical to a BR7 plug, except it's silver instead of copper.
Once the car is warmed up it fires up with no hesitation at all, cold start is a little better. I still have a slight hesitation when doing mild acceleration but it's not a huge deal.
I notice when the car is not all the way warmed up I have a slight hesitation under mild acceleration, if I give it more gas or go WOT than it's not a issue, I will say with TR7IX plugs the car feel insanely more responsive under WOT.
Hey boys I’m baaaack
Lost my log in since NMCA Bradenton, so SVTP withdrawls and lurking only.
Steve, those pics make the great point of the NON-projected tip of the BR7EFs over the TRs.
It also is why I too also want to try the Brisk plugs which should be closer heat range 8s in NGK. Last I looked they didn’t make a BR8EF.
Also a PSA on why ‘13-14 500s are perceived as more fragile is that they run a higher compression (9.5) and higher factory boost (14-15#) and come with a colder plug (equivalent to a 7 heat range) from Ford SVT.
When you add mods, boost and power (higher cylinder pressure) but use the standard proven 4.6/5.4 modular plug— the NGK TR6 —you’re actually using a hotter plug!
On regular pump 93 or especially 91, this shrinks the tuning window—making detonation and then engine failure more commonplace.
Fuels like E85 can tolerate a hotter plug and rarely show detonation/pre-ignition.
The downside of non-projected tip or colder plug or tighter gap all can lead to harder starts, less throttle response or generalized ‘worse’ drive ability.
My first bit of advice would be to check your plugs regularly after some google/youtube research on how to do it right.
I watched a decent video on plug reading from Steve Morris (SME) in the past.
Brisk plugs are factory on some previous Cobra Jets and I spoke to Brisk at PRI 3-4yrs ago.
As there isn’t a BR8EF, I’ve been wanting to try a set of heat range 8 non-projected tip Brisk plugs, which should be similar to the VMP link above!
Good luck.
-J
All good points J, I ordered the Brisk GR12S plugs, I'm going to put those in and see how they do compared to the TR7s. At this point I'm interested to see what plugs the car likes best, I will say the car is more responsive with the TR7s, but maybe the GR12S will feel the same.Hey boys I’m baaaack
Lost my log in since NMCA Bradenton, so SVTP withdrawls and lurking only.
Steve, those pics make the great point of the NON-projected tip of the BR7EFs over the TRs.
It also is why I too also want to try the Brisk plugs which should be closer heat range 8s in NGK. Last I looked they didn’t make a BR8EF.
Also a PSA on why ‘13-14 500s are perceived as more fragile is that they run a higher compression (9.5) and higher factory boost (14-15#) and come with a colder plug (equivalent to a 7 heat range) from Ford SVT.
When you add mods, boost and power (higher cylinder pressure) but use the standard proven 4.6/5.4 modular plug— the NGK TR6 —you’re actually using a hotter plug!
On regular pump 93 or especially 91, this shrinks the tuning window—making detonation and then engine failure more commonplace.
Fuels like E85 can tolerate a hotter plug and rarely show detonation/pre-ignition.
The downside of non-projected tip or colder plug or tighter gap all can lead to harder starts, less throttle response or generalized ‘worse’ drive ability.
My first bit of advice would be to check your plugs regularly after some google/youtube research on how to do it right.
I watched a decent video on plug reading from Steve Morris (SME) in the past.
Brisk plugs are factory on some previous Cobra Jets and I spoke to Brisk at PRI 3-4yrs ago.
As there isn’t a BR8EF, I’ve been wanting to try a set of heat range 8 non-projected tip Brisk plugs, which should be similar to the VMP link above!
Good luck.
-J
Cool I definitely value your feedback.
Mileage on last set of BR7EFs? I usually swap mine ever season or twice if lots of hard use.
I would agree and say give the car what it wants and monitor what they look like.
Good luck.
-J
The BR7 plugs I just took out only had maybe 200 miles on them, they all looked good expect one, not sure why this one looked off from the rest.
But I usually changed them out every 1000 miles. I'm going to look at the TR7s I have in there since they have about 40 miles on them and I did 2 WOT pulls.
But I'm definitely interested to see how the GR12s do.
Swapped out the BR7EFs and put in the TR7IXs gapped at .27, the car does seem to start a little better, throttle response is definitely improved, I still have a small driveability issue I've never been able to figure out. Did a WOT pull, had negative knock all through the pull and A/Fs looked good. Lund tuned it so I know it's safe. I'm
Side by side comparison
I think I'm going to maybe also try the Brisk GR12S plugs, I use to run those in my 13 GT500 with the 3.6KB.
Brisk Racing GR12S Spark Plugs - Silver (GT500 and Cobra)
I'm happy to hear the TR7-IXs are working better for you, Steve.
I knew you'd have advice here, J.
FWIW, VMP recommended Brisk plugs to a local friend for his '13, but he was not happy with the way they ran, so he returned to NGK. Curious to hear what both of think about them...
My Brisk GE12s plugs showed up today, they're definitely closer to the BR7s than the TR7s. They come pre gapped at .27 so no need to adjust that. I'm interested to see how they perform, also got a Griptec 2.4 upper.
Look forward to the feedback on the plugs
Steve how long have those injectors been in there?
Have you ever had them cleaned.
I’ll probably do that every 1-2yrs based on less than great cleaning of injectors that were in for 3-4 season.
-J
Have you ever had them cleaned.
I’ll probably do that every 1-2yrs based on less than great cleaning of injectors that were in for 3-4 season.
-J
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