Just wondering how much you guys that went aluminum got them bored to. would you recommend going .20 or .30 over? also .20 gives you 302ci correct? what would .30 give you? lastly what sleeves did you gus go with? darton? thanks again and all your responses are greatly appreciated. Luis
New Aluminum Blocks
- Thread starter Sneeks2nv
- Start date
I think you are talking about .020 and .030. And from what I recall, a .020 does not give you a 302ci but rather a 286ci or so. You get the 302 primarily by stroking.
It really isn't worth the money to have a 281 bored out. Sure you gain a little, but for the money you can gain a lot more with other mods. The only reason I would see going the 5.0 or 5.2 route with one of these is if you buy it already done as a short or long block package.
-Jeff
-Jeff
.020 over is about a 283, .030 is about a 284 and a .020 over bore with a 3.75 (stroker) crank is a 5.0 i believe.
3.7" bore with stock stroke is 305ci. 3.7 is .200 bigger, not .020.
there is some question whether or not there's enough bore spacing left for a good seal on the head gasket with that bore. and i mean in the context of forced induction.
the 3.7" bore aluminum block is $3500 from ford racing (M-6010-T50).
there is some question whether or not there's enough bore spacing left for a good seal on the head gasket with that bore. and i mean in the context of forced induction.
the 3.7" bore aluminum block is $3500 from ford racing (M-6010-T50).
thanks for the responses, nothing is certain as of now. i'm just looking at different options and different set-ups that people here have? or i guess i could send the block out to VT or MMR and let them do what they do best. anyone elses input would be appreciated also.
the supercharger controls the air going into the engine so we dont have to do all kinds of fancy tricks to increase intake scavenging (eg., ported heads, cams)
spend the money on forged internals and making more boost if its more power you want.
spend the money on forged internals and making more boost if its more power you want.
i disagree. the stock bore leaves a lot to be desired for a performance application.HISSMAN said:
My point is that it is not worth the money for an extra 10-15 horses, and a bit more torque. You are going to have to change internals any which way you go, so I would just beef up the bottom end, and save the block work for an upgraded blower and more boost. You will get a lot more out of it. It is like a cam swap, not much there. Minor changes in displacement do not yield that much more power. Now, if we could take these blocks to 6.0 that would be something. But for the money, I wouldn't machine the stock block. But like I said, if you are purchasing a whole new short or long block, then why not go with the extra ci's. I for one am going to stay as a 4.6 because it is more than capable of making more power than I will ever need. And with that one must wonder, when should be the time to bore or stroke? Once the block has exceeded it's potential in 4.6 form you will be well beyond what most street-able cars will need. Sure, you can get a little more low end grunt by adding some leverage with a stoker, but it is just cheaper to up the boost.
It is always recommend to go 0.020" over on the aluminum blocks, due to production variances. Al Pappito documented many production blocks having discrepancies amongst all of the cylinders. Going 0.020-0.030" over gives the builder a fresh canvas with which to appropriately size the pistons for each cylinder.
ShelbyGuy said:
i havent heard too much discussed about using this block from ford racing for an engine buildup. has it already been established that it may not be the best route to go for a fi application?
very expensive that is for sure
edit: nevermind - did a search and got alot of insight from this thread http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=254744&highlight=m-6010-t50
thx :thumbsup:
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