Need some help here... Car cranks but wont fire, story inside!

MG01GT

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Ok basic run down here. Pulled the blower and ect to take the valve covers off for powder coating. Got it all back together, put JLT high boost CAI, SCT BA3000 MAF, and a BilletFlow SB throttle body. Load my revised tune and she fires right up but has a high idle, throws a p0122 code which indicates a bad TPS. Makes sense cause I may or may have not dropped it once or twice... don't judge me. Fast forward to today, I replaced the TPS with a quality part from NAPA as the Yucca Valley ford has nothing stock... yay 29 Palms.... and she fires right up with not too bad of an idle but still a little high( I had set the set screw out a little bit so figured this might be the problem) but I see that its popped two codes p0068 and the same p0122 again. So I tried clearing the codes while the engine is running...no love... tuner tells me that it failed clearing the codes. Im like ok well must be cause the engine is running. Turn it off and proceed to clear the codes that way and it works. Go to fire the engine and I get nothing now.... Just sits there and cranks but wont fire. Checked the fuses for the pumps and the boost a pump and they are good. You can hear the pumps in the tank so I know they are good. Tried reloading the tune... no love there either. Checked the MAF, IAT, TPS, and IAC connections and they are all good.... Kinda thinking this is a spark issue but why all of a sudden? Has any body had a issue like this or similar? Keep in mind that it is not throwing any more codes now at all now. Just will not fire. Only thing I can think of is maybe one of the engine ground straps isn't as snug as it should be.... would this cause an issue? Ive tried the search function... so before you blast away, I came up with nothing.
 

Rich'sTRsvt

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Don't know why your car won't currently start. When you did the throttle body and tps did you set the voltage to .98 and go through the process of setting up the idle correctly? I don't recall the exact procedure but I know it has been said or linked to on here. Others have been having problems with the search function so maybe some one will come in with it or link to it.
 

04dreamcobra

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If it's not the TPS I would watch for a PATS lockout. The security system may have said FU. Does your theft light flash while you're trying to start?
 
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MG01GT

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Don't know why your car won't currently start. When you did the throttle body and tps did you set the voltage to .98 and go through the process of setting up the idle correctly? I don't recall the exact procedure but I know it has been said or linked to on here. Others have been having problems with the search function so maybe some one will come in with it or link to it.

To be honest no I hadn't gone through the process...... I suppose I could go check out a volt meter from the base hobby shop and tackle that. But it still confuses me as to why it would start just fine then not....
 

MG01GT

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If it's not the TPS I would watch for a CATS lockout. The security system may have said FU. Does your theft light flash while you're trying to start?

I didn't notice it flashing, but Ill go give it a try today and see if it is..... I hoping that's not the case cause I really do not want to tow this thing down to Ford just to get a PATS reset... FML
 

Rich'sTRsvt

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Sorry, I didn't type that out quite right. I was talking about fixing the codes and high idle. It may not be related to the car not starting.
 

NastyNate420

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If your tps voltage is stable and around .98 you should be good with that. TPS isnt as critical as some think.
Id check to see if you theft light is flashing... sounds like it could be your PATS. you can have it disabled in a tune to see if that fixes the problem.
 

MG01GT

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If your tps voltage is stable and around .98 you should be good with that. TPS isnt as critical as some think.
Id check to see if you theft light is flashing... sounds like it could be your PATS. you can have it disabled in a tune to see if that fixes the problem.

Appreciate the info! Ill go check that out today during chow and see if that's the issue.
 

NastyNate420

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Yeah long story short is I had My PATS malfunction. The light will be flashing quickly if its activated. You can also go in the engineering "test" mode by holding the odometer button why turn the key to the on(without starting) and you can scroll through until the DTC show up and write down any that pop up.
 

MG01GT

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Yeah long story short is I had My PATS malfunction. The light will be flashing quickly if its activated. You can also go in the engineering "test" mode by holding the odometer button why turn the key to the on(without starting) and you can scroll through until the DTC show up and write down any that pop up.

So I went out and took a look and its not flashing as you try to start it... It will stay on for a second or two as I crank it then it goes out. But it does flash quickly when I first put the key in and into the on position.... Pulled the codes in the "test" mode, or at least what I think are the codes... P0262 Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit High and P0043 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low.....
 

04dreamcobra

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Mine did this same thing. Ended up being PATS and then the TPS. Fixed both and fired right up. Hope you get it worked out.
 

MG01GT

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Thanks guys... Im still going through this as we speak. I gotta go through every fuse under the dash still but Im really leaning to it being the PATS
 

hotcobra03

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If you have fuel and spark..pats isnt the issue. .

is the car tuned?

Do you have tuner if it is?

ive had times of no start but cranks...fuel switch in trunk just trips at any time for no reason

I would also do compression test..half an engine will not start.

you can confirm injectors and coil ground signal with. A noid or test light of multi meter
 

NastyNate420

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Take a spray bottle filled with gas ..spray it in the throttle body and see it if starts for a sec. if it does you got spark and compression and jus missing fuel.
 

MG01GT

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If you have fuel and spark..pats isnt the issue. .

is the car tuned?

Do you have tuner if it is?

ive had times of no start but cranks...fuel switch in trunk just trips at any time for no reason

I would also do compression test..half an engine will not start.

you can confirm injectors and coil ground signal with. A noid or test light of multi meter

Well I know the pumps are priming as you can hear them and all the fuses are good to go that relate to the pumps, BAP, Wiring up grade and FPDM.

I just recently added a SB throttle body, JLT Hight boost intake and SCT BA300 MAF, so my tuner sent me a base tune to do data logs with. Loaded the tune and she fired right up. had a high idle and threw a code for a bad TPS. Changed it... tried to clear the codes as the car was running, failed with no love, turned it off cleared the codes with success then it wouldn't start at all. Just sits there and cranks but doesn't fire.
 

MG01GT

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Little update....

Ok so Gents, I ended up swapping the old TPS on and she fired right up. Still had the same high idle and threw the same P0122 code. Decided not to even mess around and went and bought a motorcraft TPS. Cleared the codes and fired her up and well there was no more check engine light or codes however it still had the high idle. Had someone show me the thread about the Billetflow throttle bodies having that issue. I went through the procedure to supposedly fix this issue minus read the TPS voltage.... waiting on my Volt meter to come in the mail. So with that said.... it did work a little bit. Before it was idling at 1500 and this dropped it down to around 1200 or so but trying to drive it when you push the clutch in it rises to almost 2000 and wants to hang there..... Im almost suspecting the Idle air control valve. There are no codes or lights and out side of that the throttle response is spot on. Ive checked all the vacuum lines and ect. Anybody got some ideas?
 

NVRL8TE

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I love when guys post the fix!

Ok, here is what I want you to do...

Go buy some "cut it yourself" gasket material (it's like $3 for 5 acres...), and make the gasket so it blocks off your IAC, completely (5 minute operation, really....) See what happens and report back...
 

MG01GT

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I love when guys post the fix!

Ok, here is what I want you to do...

Go buy some "cut it yourself" gasket material (it's like $3 for 5 acres...), and make the gasket so it blocks off your IAC, completely (5 minute operation, really....) See what happens and report back...

LOL much appreciated... this is why you get paid the big bucks, I hadn't even thought of that. FML
 

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