Need Help Asap Motor Not Starting!!!

[cobra196]

when i turn the key the fuel pump doesn't goes on and theres no spark those are the only things i checked. the fuel pump does work tho bc i jumped it. i checked all fuses they look good and all grounds seem good

any ideas why its not getting spark and fuel pump is not working??
how many grounds are there and where?

its a brand new build forged bottom end. installed hellion turbo system and deleted egr, smog and secondary air injection. car ran perfect before all this was done.

this is the only connection i could not find where it goes back. where does this go???

 

[Cookieman00x]

looks like the wire for the fuel pump..

 

[98(oBra\/ert]

looks like the wire for the fuel pump..

x2

 

[Tx_Diablous]

That connector looks like a shorting plug on one end. Does it have two connectors or is there a plug in the flat end. I have an engine harness in the garage I will go look at but I do not think that it has anything to do with the fuel pump...

 

[Yellow98SVT]

That plug you are holding in your hand looks just like the VSS plug that plugs into the transmission speed sensor. When you put a Speedcal into the tranny, that is what the plug looks like. It may have nothing to do with your problem, but, that is exactly what hat plug looks like

 

[James Snover]

It looks like some O2 eliminators I have seen. Are you saying you found this lying loose in the car? If it is just a secondary O2 eliminator it should not prevent the car from starting, ordinarily.

The throttle position sensor could cause your exact problem.

Jim Snover

That plug you are holding in your hand looks just like the VSS plug that plugs into the transmission speed sensor. When you put a Speedcal into the tranny, that is what the plug looks like. It may have nothing to do with your problem, but, that is exactly what hat plug looks like

 

[Slow95Cobra]

is the theft lamp blinking fast when you turn the car on?

 

[03 TOPLESSSVT]

Check your Engine to Body grounds and/or try adding one. If the motor has just been out they might not have been reconnected.

 

[jlg32281]

You need to give more info. Does the car turn over? Does it try to start? Having a lose plug like means you weren't very careful in making sure everything went back the way it should have. I would go back and re-check all of the connectors and grounds.

 

[roush24]

looks like the wire for the fuel pump..

ding ding ding...my car doesnt start and i have a left over wire :bash:

 

[cobra196]

It looks like some O2 eliminators I have seen. Are you saying you found this lying loose in the car? If it is just a secondary O2 eliminator it should not prevent the car from starting, ordinarily.

The throttle position sensor could cause your exact problem.

Jim Snover

i wasn't loose just a wire i never knew where it went back.

is the theft lamp blinking fast when you turn the car on?

im not 100% sure but i dont think so

Check your Engine to Body grounds and/or try adding one. If the motor has just been out they might not have been reconnected.

theres an engine to body ground

You need to give more info. Does the car turn over? Does it try to start? Having a lose plug like means you weren't very careful in making sure everything went back the way it should have. I would go back and re-check all of the connectors and grounds.

the engine turns over fine. at first i noticed the fuel pump wasn't going so i jumped it then it still didnt start so i checked spark and noticed no spark ether.

 

[mcaligiuri]

nick flip the other end around so i can see what the connector looks like. idk but i agree that it looks like ti is realted to the o2 sensors. that shouldnt stop the sparlk. i would check the crank sensor and cam sensor.

 

[James Snover]

It can prevent the engine from starting. The rear O2 sensors are used to set the target voltage for the front O2 sensors. After that, they play no part in the running of the engine, they only monitor cat efficiency. Some engines will not run without that target voltage being set.

Jim Snover

nick flip the other end around so i can see what the connector looks like. idk but i agree that it looks like ti is realted to the o2 sensors. that shouldnt stop the sparlk. i would check the crank sensor and cam sensor.

 

[mcaligiuri]

went to his house today, the check engine light does not come on when you turn the key. we powered it up directly from the battery to the red wires on the ecu and the cel comes on dimmly, second you turn the key to start it shuts off. the fuel pump wont kick on yet a relay in the ccrm clicks and it powers up the other stuff (abs, srs) so idk what to make of it. also his theft lights flashes very fast. but the checj engine light wont light up at all. is it a dead ecu?

 

[James Snover]

Not necessarily. I can't discount the idea, and it does seem odd there is no active fault code, but it could still be some issue is not being met to allow the ECU to start the engine.

If the ECU sees the throttle position wide open, or gets irrational data from it, that, all by itself would pevent the engine from starting. No target voltage set by the rear O2's could do it. No crank position sensor or irrational data from the crank position sensor will do it. If it thinks the engine is over-heated it won't allow it to start, in some cases. But all of those ought to generate codes and turn on the CEL.

A blown fuse to the fuel pump, or a bad relay to the fuel pump will do it. If you don't have a meter, swap the fuel pump fuse and relay with equally-rated ones and see what happens.

Were you guys able to find out what the mystery connector was and where it should go?

Jim Snover

went to his house today, the check engine light does not come on when you turn the key. we powered it up directly from the battery to the red wires on the ecu and the cel comes on dimmly, second you turn the key to start it shuts off. the fuel pump wont kick on yet a relay in the ccrm clicks and it powers up the other stuff (abs, srs) so idk what to make of it. also his theft lights flashes very fast. but the checj engine light wont light up at all. is it a dead ecu?

 

[mcaligiuri]

yeah the mystery connector was for a trailer harness, oem ford too. the fuel relay i think is ok. The thing that makes me crazy is that the check engine light never comes on. meaning when you turn the key to the on position the check engine light should come on for a sec and then go off. IT NEVER COMES ON PERIOD. its weird. but if i have the key out and put power to the solid red wires that go to the ecu the check engine light comes on barely. also the ecu gets yellow constant 12v power and the red wires are getting 5v switched from the key. i dont understand. that should at least make the check engine light come on to power itself up. any other ideas?

 

[James Snover]

All I can think of right now is check incoming power to the ECU. If it is there, it may well be a failed ECU.

You say this came up after the engine was pulled, the bottom end was rebuilt and then re-installed. Before it ran great, now it does not run. Is that correct? Because most likely explanation, and I'm not denigrating anyone's abilities, but most likely it is something that was done in the process. I can't count how many times I have had a x-ray machine taken apart for something simple, and put it back together wrong and ended up with a whole new problem.

Including this one time I crossed the anode and the cathode on a brand new tube. I don't want to talk about it.

Jim Snover

yeah the mystery connector was for a trailer harness, oem ford too. the fuel relay i think is ok. The thing that makes me crazy is that the check engine light never comes on. meaning when you turn the key to the on position the check engine light should come on for a sec and then go off. IT NEVER COMES ON PERIOD. its weird. but if i have the key out and put power to the solid red wires that go to the ecu the check engine light comes on barely. also the ecu gets yellow constant 12v power and the red wires are getting 5v switched from the key. i dont understand. that should at least make the check engine light come on to power itself up. any other ideas?

 

[cobra196]

All I can think of right now is check incoming power to the ECU. If it is there, it may well be a failed ECU.

You say this came up after the engine was pulled, the bottom end was rebuilt and then re-installed. Before it ran great, now it does not run. Is that correct? Because most likely explanation, and I'm not denigrating anyone's abilities, but most likely it is something that was done in the process. I can't count how many times I have had a x-ray machine taken apart for something simple, and put it back together wrong and ended up with a whole new problem.

Including this one time I crossed the anode and the cathode on a brand new tube. I don't want to talk about it.

Jim Snover

yes the car ran fine before the motor was rebuilt and installed.

 

[Cookieman00x]

Do you have a ford alarm on the car? Do you have an LED on the dash or overide switch under the dash?

 

[anakyn]

One day, that kind of problem happened to me, it was the pcm fusible link, so I would double check if I were you. What led me to the problem coming from the pcm was that when I plugged my x-cal2 to read for codes indicating what could be wrong, it said it couldn't connect to the pcm. I suggest you try this.