Need advise - over heating

[firemanmike]

I ran her through a car wash today. I have vent mod and the few times in the past I used a car wash had no issues. Today, the guy is wiping her down and I see the normal steam out the grill area. Suddenly I see thick white steam (almost looked like smoke) pouring out of hood vents and grill. It stops after a bit and I drive off thinking it was just a bunch of steam from water going through hood vents. I drive a few minutes and see the temp is pinned so I pull over a pop the hood. I see steeam and the tell tell coolant all over the inside of the hood. The coolant reservoir is empty. I get some water and fill just to get me home but the temp gauge pins again quickly. I see steam coming from between the radiator and the coolant tank. I think the seam between the upper and lower half of the coolant tank is split but cannot see an obvious split, just the steam and bubbles of water. I do not have any smoke out of exhuast, white or otherwise, just what to me is normal exhuast vapor. Check oil and looks okay, not like chocolate milk althought it does smell burnt, I guess from over heating. Whats my first move here. I've replaced the tank in the past casue it warped and was not able to get a good seal with the cap. I also noticed (after letting her cool down a few hours til cold) that when it got up to running temp and before over heating (again) the fans did not cut on. Could they not be going on due to no pressure in the coolant system? I am hoping it's not a head gasket, but from reading here don't think so. Could the water at the car wash going in have caused some problem with the open hood vents? Any help or thought would be appreaciated. Also, can anyone recommend a good shop in Long Island?

 

[firemanmike]

Bump for help!!!

 

[Modular Racing]

If the reservoir was empty it is likely that it has a leak or a blown head gasket which is not uncommon for these cars now (being almost 10 years old and boosted their whole life), a quick gas test of any remaining coolant may show if there is combustion gasses in the coolant (dont forget, just because there is no water in the oil does not mean it is not a blown gasket) A compression test may also help you find out if there is a bigger problem. A set of new head gaskets, possible decking the heads and block and some ARP head studs should put you back in the game!

Best of luck! Let us know if we can help!

MMR
Modular Motorsports Racing

 

[P49Y-CY]

The coolant reservoir is empty. I get some water and fill just to get me home but the temp gauge pins again quickly.

at that point (just to get you home) you did fill it at the crossover tube, right?


also how long had you been driving the car without any problems before this?




and... car wash? seriously dude? haa j/k

 

[brownsvo]

My 04 did the same.. coming to work at 545 in the morning its like 60 degrees outside. Notice no power and wtf my temp gauge is pegged. The fans where also on outrageous fan speed. The fan will come on from the temp.. if its low im guessing 90% sure that it would be hot enough to turn the fans on.. not that it matters because the radiator is designed to cool Water, not air..

My tank had hairline cracks that would drip over night eventually depleting the system. I replaced with another tank i found in a Jy and have been leak free ever since.

Your options?
-Replace the reservoir, aluminum that may not seal correctly or a new stock unit.
-Ensure your cooling fan is actually working and or not cracked or broken. turn the A/C on, the sure fire way of turning it on without the wait for operating temp.
-Change your oil
-Put antifreeze back into the engine via the crossover tube. look for the instructions on the forums or pour till your tank fills up (cap on) and pour some more with the engine on.

 

[firemanmike]

Thanks for the info, please keep it coming. Here's where I'm at now; fan is shot!!! Went to the shop and they said it blew the 50 amp fuse (wasn't that in some song???), they showed me the fan (still in the car) start smoking and the blades seem to be hitting something; I hope not the radiator. They don't think the head gaskets are damaged (exhaust is okay to the eye, just some normal water vapor) but will run the test when the new fan (THANKS SVTP AND TOUSLEY!!!) is installed so as not to unnecessarily overheat the engine. No one has any idea how or why it happened, but it is shot. The coolant tank seems fine. They pressure tested it and it held fine. I'm hoping the new fan, a new thermostat *but which one to use!!!??? Stock with holes or other???) and oil change. Then I’ll have that squeaking Billetflow idler pulley swapped out. I hate to even ask but do they need a pulley puller for the idlers??? Is there anything else to check for damage due to the overheating??? Any thoughts are apprecaited!!!

 

[03SonicVert]

You have to take it one step at a time. I'm pretty sure you can actively command the fans on both low and high with a scan tool. If either or both of the fan speeds don't operate then you start there. Keep your fingers crossed it wasn't run too hot to warp or damage components. Once a T-stat is overheated it needs to be replaced. It's your call/budget as to what you want to put in there. I'm my opinion you have two choices: stock replacement with holes drilled or Reische. I would go with the Reische. These cars run hot under the hood and the Reische is a nice fix.

Did the shop check for hydrocarbons in the coolant? Just get the fan working, replace the t-stat, burp properly and go from there. If they pressure tested and didn't find any leaks then you should not have any....

I watch my gauges like a hawk. I find it ridiculous how many times I scan my gauges but its just programmed in my brain. I'm pretty sure Ford built a fail safe in these cars at 248 deg or so to alternate/shut down cylinders to turn the engine into an air pump to help the heat escape. If it did reach that temp you would have felt it running rough and the check engine light would come on with a DTC stored to indicate it went into fail safe.

 

[firemanmike]

You have to take it one step at a time. I'm pretty sure you can actively command the fans on both low and high with a scan tool. If either or both of the fan speeds don't operate then you start there. Keep your fingers crossed it wasn't run too hot to warp or damage components. Once a T-stat is overheated it needs to be replaced. It's your call/budget as to what you want to put in there. I'm my opinion you have two choices: stock replacement with holes drilled or Reische. I would go with the Reische. These cars run hot under the hood and the Reische is a nice fix.

Did the shop check for hydrocarbons in the coolant? Just get the fan working, replace the t-stat, burp properly and go from there. If they pressure tested and didn't find any leaks then you should not have any....

I watch my gauges like a hawk. I find it ridiculous how many times I scan my gauges but its just programmed in my brain. I'm pretty sure Ford built a fail safe in these cars at 248 deg or so to alternate/shut down cylinders to turn the engine into an air pump to help the heat escape. If it did reach that temp you would have felt it running rough and the check engine light would come on with a DTC stored to indicate it went into fail safe.

I didn't get any warning lights and she drove okay (about a half mile) to get to the shop where I just parked it, so hopefully trheres no additonal damage other then tghe fan that crapped out. I need to check the radiator after they get the fan out to make sure the blades weren't for some reason rubbing against it. Thanks for the T Stat advice.:beer::beer::beer:

 

[Jomo1994z71]

What brand idlers do you have?
If billet flow you can get new bearings pressed
No pulley puller needed...just loosen belt and unbolt idler...get new bearing and press it in
There's a thread somewhere talking bout the correct bearing

 

[firemanmike]

What brand idlers do you have?
If billet flow you can get new bearings pressed
No pulley puller needed...just loosen belt and unbolt idler...get new bearing and press it in
There's a thread somewhere talking bout the correct bearing

I spoke to Doug; he said identify the bad one and send it back, he'll fix it. That said, my blue pullies are all scratched and grooved. He said I must've bought unhardened ones which is why; I certainly don't remember there being a choice between hardened and unhardened. I have never gone the cheap route when upgrading parts and certainly would've gotten ones that would not look like shit a few thousand miles down the road, especially on what's essentially "look good" parts!!!