Nazman & Quadcammer or any other COBRA GAWD

[KGblack99cobra]

Hey guys, Im getting the car back this weekend..

Engine Break in time.. I have been reading over on Modular about the breakin period. I want to break this puppy in like the Mod Motor Builder suggest.
I was kinda wondering if either of you 2 or any other Cobra Gawd could do a little Write up on how exactly to do this or Link it and Sticky it up top for all to see. I just dont want to do this wrong, 1 yr & 6 days with out the car is not going to happen again.

Thanks in advacne
KG

 

[Mach0ne351]

1000-1500 miles. drive around town, drive freeways (without gunning it), hills, etc. make the engine drive and run is various conditions....baby it for that many miles...

marek

 

[KGblack99cobra]

Well after reading for the past 2 hours.. I have been led to believe that is a common mistake.... Supposedly you get on it pretty good right after the car completely heats up and is running at normal temp...It sommething to do with the Rings not being under full load and not setting right due to something with the hone and low compression loads. I mean im posting up to clarify this. (IM LEARNING AS I GO)..
I know NAZMAN just did this whole ordeal an he did this new break in theory.
Any other suggestions

 

[Snake Eyes]

- Crank the engine over a few times without the coil packs and/or crank sensor to prime the engine
- Start it up but do not let it idle and keep it around the 2k mark for a while (until @ operating temp)
- When driving try to decelerate and let the engine do it vs. foot brake to help seat the rings.
- Change the oil/filter around the 50 mile marker (you should be using dyno oil, not synthetic)
- Do not run at constant rpms for any amount of time (go for variable rpms)
- Change oil again around the 500 mile marker, then again at 1500 (you can use synthetics at this point) and start to beat on it.

 

[1slosvt]

Good luck man. Post up some vids of the beast running. I've been wondering how it was coming along.

 

[KGblack99cobra]

Im to the point of Hysteria.... I mean shes almost alive again and going to be a bat out of HELL.. Ill get video's up asap... Got the camera charged and ready to Film..
YEA gonna GET IT DONE!!!

MORE BREAK IN INFO Guys come on.... I need more info

 

[JebTonkin]

What is your setup?

 

[KGblack99cobra]

She wont be to bad ass, but will be a completely different car then i had before.. Should be more then enough for me
04 Mach motor,Ported upper & lower intake, 90 maf, 39lbers, JLT CAI, Flowtech Lt's with Matchin O/R X, Slp 1 catback, Diablo Prediator, (Dyno tune soon) Thats bout it with the motor....


Comming soon ($$$ Pending)
T56
03 IRS w/ 4.30's

 

[SlwSVT]

Not on the level of Gawdness of Quad or Nazman. But I to just got my new motor in and did a lot of research. I was told by the gearheads, horsepower monsters (my bud builds and drives his registered 7 second stang), that you need to break it in hard to get the rings to seal correctly. I change the first oil after about 20 miles, then the second change after about 300 miles. I got on her quite a bit, but did keep her under redline for the first few hundred miles. Everyone has there opinion, some will say that you need to baby her.

 

[KGblack99cobra]

See what you just said, is what i have been reading... So im just wanting to hear more from more people who have been doing it

 

[SlwSVT]

Oh and by the way, my car dyno'ed 700 at the wheels at only 6600-6700rpm with 400 miles on her with a mail order tune. We were running a shredding belt and did not pull her to the 7500 redline. I was told that I should let the rings seal first by another individual. I got the belt issue's fixed and will get her back to the dyno after a few more miles. Maybe I should get rid of the stock throttle body and throw one of the new Accufabs on there and see the results? (sorry off topic, but could not resist with all the throttle body debating) :burnout:

 

[lemosley01]

I believe quadcammer used this method:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

If you choose to do it, you really should do it at the track or on the dyno. Too dangerous on the street. I did what I could on the street when breaking in my bike, but when the bike will do 65 in first gear...

 

[KGblack99cobra]

Thats what i read... LOL.... Thats why im asking about it..
So a Dyno is the best way to do this huh.... Guess i need to take the Trailer again

 

[Nazman]

I'm no Gawd by any means but I do share the little bit that I know.

I followed the following process:

Engine Break-In

This was my engine builder recomendation (Modular Performance). Now, keep in mind that MP has the top 5 fastest Modulars in the Nation....not to mention my little NA hoopty! So, they must be doing something right.

Based on that write up the inital 20 or so miles are the most important.

First off, I do not belive in running the motor with no plugs, etc. This is just un-due wear on the rings with little to no lube!

What I do, if remove the oil pump, ensure its assembled correctly, check the pressure spring, and coat the gears with some vaseline, and motor oil (10W40), put it together and go for it.

This have allowed for instant oil pressure during initial start up. No problem what so ever.

I'll run 10W30 Dyno Oil for the initial 1000-1500 miles.

After initial start-up someone needs to keep an eye on oil pressure/temp, while someone else checks for leaks, etc as well as ensure that you dont have air trapped inthe cooling system. Turn on your heat at Max and ensure you are cool.

Once the motor is up-to operating temp, and everything is good to go. Shot her down, and change the oil. This is very important since it will prevent any trash, debrey (SP??), and all those fuilds (tranny fuid on cylinder walls, cam lube, vaseline, etc. that contaminated the oil. Replace the motor oil and filter.

Go out (with a chase vehicle), and a co-pilot, and break that sucker as listed above.

Very important: MOTOR MUST BE AT OPERATING TEMP!

Upon return (o/a 20-30 miles) change your oil and filter once again, and then again at 500 miles and 1500 miles, from there you will be good to go full syntetics.

Just my .02

Naz

 

[Nazman]

By the way....I followed a very similar proccedure when I had my original motor on my brand new 99 back in the day....and you guys are aware of the results on that motor: 410RWHP NA stock short block.

I followed the listed steps on my new build up and great results: 459RWHP NA with just a few miles and break in tune! Lots more on her!

Hope that with the addtion of the Accufab TB, few extra miles, a bit more agressive tune and syntetics she will be able to reach the 475RWHP NA!! :thumbsup: :lol:

We will see here shortly!

Naz

 

[COBRABRAD]

I'm no Gawd by any means but I do share the little bit that I know.

I followed the following process:

Engine Break-In

This was my engine builder recomendation (Modular Performance). Now, keep in mind that MP has the top 5 fastest Modulars in the Nation....not to mention my little NA hoopty! So, they must be doing something right.

Based on that write up the inital 20 or so miles are the most important.

First off, I do not belive in running the motor with no plugs, etc. This is just un-due wear on the rings with little to no lube!

What I do, if remove the oil pump, ensure its assembled correctly, check the pressure spring, and coat the gears with some vaseline, and motor oil (10W40), put it together and go for it.

This have allowed for instant oil pressure during initial start up. No problem what so ever.

I'll run 10W30 Dyno Oil for the initial 1000-1500 miles.

After initial start-up someone needs to keep an eye on oil pressure/temp, while someone else checks for leaks, etc as well as ensure that you dont have air trapped inthe cooling system. Turn on your heat at Max and ensure you are cool.

Once the motor is up-to operating temp, and everything is good to go. Shot her down, and change the oil. This is very important since it will prevent any trash, debrey (SP??), and all those fuilds (tranny fuid on cylinder walls, cam lube, vaseline, etc. that contaminated the oil. Replace the motor oil and filter.

Go out (with a chase vehicle), and a co-pilot, and break that sucker as listed above.

Very important: MOTOR MUST BE AT OPERATING TEMP!

Upon return (o/a 20-30 miles) change your oil and filter once again, and then again at 500 miles and 1500 miles, from there you will be good to go full syntetics.

Just my .02

Naz

I read and followed those instructions for my second motor, 4000 miles now and it runs strong.

 

[KGblack99cobra]

looks like im going to be going this route as well.. Ill have the video cam on the whole time so i can post it up

 

[Quadcammer]

I did the mototune method on the dyno. it is truly the way to go. the three examples in this thread (slowsvt 700rwhp, me 670rwhp, and Naz at 460rwhp NA) should give you a good idea that it works.

you don't need to hold it at 2k rpm, thats a cam break in thing.

when you are ready to drive.

1. Prime it somehow.
2. start it, keep it alive if it wants to die.
3. let it warm up while bleeding the cooling system
4. when its good and warm, take it out slowly for just a trip around the block to make sure nothing is banging, knocking or loose (ds, lugnuts, what have you).

then, take it out and do a couple 3rd gear pulls from say 2500 to 6000 at 70% throttle. Let the engine brake itself. (easier to do at night)

Then do a few more from 2500 to 6500 at 80% throttle and let it engine brake.

Then do a few more from say 3k to 6800 at WOT.

take the car home, change the oil with dino, and let it cool off for the night.

after it cools, check torque on major bolts, and its broken in.

also let the car cool a bit between runs (by doing some highway driving), and make sure your car is ready for wot (new fuel filter, good fuel pressure, good oil pressure, etc)

 

[KGblack99cobra]

Alrighty then... With the above posted evidenece I feel completely safe at breaking the motor in via mototune method...

Priming it- Can i just push the Fuel Cut off switch in the rear of the trunk? or what do yall suggest..

Coolant bleeding method.... Remove the heater core hose till water bleeds out that way, and then close the pressure relief on the crossover correct ?

By "Checking Torque on major Bolts" Please explain further... u talking about Interals, Cam bolts, head studs stuff like that or just talkin about externals?

To be prepared for this, about how much oil do i need to buy to be prepared for this Oil change marathon LOL. Dyno Oil is the same as Ford Motorcraft (Stocker Oil).....

 

[Quadcammer]

1. Floor the Gas pedal=injectors don't fire=no start and no fuel in chambers.
2. Fill the coolant resevior to the top. close the cap, and continue filling through the crossover until its full. Leave the crossover plug slightly open to allow air to escape. Idle car with vents to full hot, blower to max. do a few cycles. you will most likely need to add a little coolant, but I have never had any major air bubbles. Don't remove the heater hose. Another trick is to do this with the nose of the car lower than the rear.

3. motor mounts, intake hoses, exhaust, etc. Things that might have gotten jostled with first startup. If your internal bolts have been properly torqued, they should be perfect.

4. I broke mine in on Castrol GTX. Its cheap as hell and readily available. Id buy 2 cases (bout 30 bux). Change the oil after intitial break in. Then do so after about 250 to 300 miles. Again after 1000. Then run the oil until about 3k or so. Change again.

I went to synthetic at 5k.