My McLeod RXT install - 03/04 cobra

[digital911]

I just got a new RXT, Steel flywheel, TOB, Pilot bearing and TOB retainer sleeve installed.

I am noticing three problems with this new setup.

1) This RXT is noisy as hell during engagement (most noticeably during downshifting). Best way I can describe the sound is like a bad case of diarrhea - just a lot of loose sounding stuff going on in there. I will try and take a video of it and post later so you can judge for yourself.
Other than engagement, the clutch does not make noise.

2) Under HARD acceleration, 2nd and MOSTLY 3rd gear I get a bad vibration in the car. If I accelerate normally this is not an issue.

3) While the clutch IS engaged, I hear what sounds like the beginning of TOB failure. As soon as I DISengage the clutch, the noise goes away. Clutch as about 530 miles on it so I can't beleive the TOB would be failing already - especially since I have followed break in advice and for most part been granny'ing it.

I should note that prior to this clutch kit install, I was not having any of these issues.

Any advice would be much appreciated!

 

[jblood37]

I know this is an old thread, but I just want to update it with my experience with the pivot ball. I'm using the RXT, Mcleod aluminum flywheel, stock shift cable, Steeda quick release quadrant, Mcleod adjustable pivot ball, and a firewall adjuster turned all the way in now. I tried making my adjustable pivot ball 4.5 mm shorter to start with, but the clutch fork was almost at the very back of the clutch fork window. With this orientation my clutch fork was way into the pressure plate fingers after the cable was attached. I then took the trans out and shortened the ball all the way down and now the fork sits about halfway between the center of the window and the rear of the window. It feels pretty good here. I wonder why my install was so much different than others?

 

[135 Boom]

I know this is an old thread, but I just want to update it with my experience with the pivot ball. I'm using the RXT, Mcleod aluminum flywheel, stock shift cable, Steeda quick release quadrant, Mcleod adjustable pivot ball, and a firewall adjuster turned all the way in now. I tried making my adjustable pivot ball 4.5 mm shorter to start with, but the clutch fork was almost at the very back of the clutch fork window. With this orientation my clutch fork was way into the pressure plate fingers after the cable was attached. I then took the trans out and shortened the ball all the way down and now the fork sits about halfway between the center of the window and the rear of the window. It feels pretty good here. I wonder why my install was so much different than others?

I'm going through the same thing right now with my RXT, Fidanza etc. Pulled the tranny and went down 4mm, the TOB is still riding the fingers and the fork was all the way aft. Pulled it again and went down 6mm, it gave me about 1/16 of an inch between the TOB and pp fingers but the TOB is still going when in neutral. Going to pull it again and go down 8mm to see if I can fix the problem. Glad to hear I'm not the only one that had this issue. FML BTW on this install.

 

[davidbettencour]

I just did this. My setup is a McLeod RXT with McLeod Aluminum flywheel, McLeod clutch ford, replaced the TOB, pilot bearing and the a few minor bolts here and there while I was in there. I never changed the pivot ball and haven't had issues with the TOB.

I bought the McLeod adjustable pivot balls, but never installed them. I use the FRPP firewall adjuster and the stock cable. I use the FRPP because each turn has a click and a lock, plus you can really see the Allen key to lock it down.

I did lose 5/6 the other week though in the tranny, but it does have 97,500 on it and I've got close to 600 hp at the wheels(on my street tune) and 700 at the wheels (on my race tune) so there's that. I never got the trans worked on.