My Engine Is Out

lawdude

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Getting new pistons and rings. While it's out I'm replacing fuel rails with Division X rails and replacing the engine mounts with Steeda adjustable mounts. Adding a J&S Safeguard Vampire. Can you think of any other relatively inexpensive mods that would be easier to make with the engine on the bench?
 
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Red-GT500

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2013 oil pan.
Upgraded oil pump gears.
air/oil cooler.
170 thermostat.
Powdercoated valve covers.

that should keep you busy lol.
 

lawdude

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Already got the oil pump gears and 170 thermostat. What air/oil cooler you recommend?
 
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blkGT500nCA

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Powder coat everything! lol Especially the valve covers like someone else said. SO much easier to swap out now. Let me know if I can help.
 

lawdude

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Short story, had two bad injectors and detonation in those cylinders. The factory knock detectors kept catastrophic damage from happening, but the rings in those two cylinders just weren't working right - using way too much oil.
 

VNMOUS1

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Short story, had two bad injectors and detonation in those cylinders. The factory knock detectors kept catastrophic damage from happening, but the rings in those two cylinders just weren't working right - using way too much oil.

What injectors were you running? Did you even have 1k on that new motor?
 

70SCJ

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-ceramic coat your headers
-modify intake to unshroud intercooler more
 

70SCJ

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Explain please

I think Justin did it and I know that Steggy did it. From what I understand as cast the intake blocks a percentage of the intercooler from direct airflow from the supercharger. A piece of the intake is cut out and welded back in at a different angle unmasking the portion of I/C.
I do not know if any improvements in cooling were made or not.
 

lawdude

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I am using the same injectors. Anything I should be aware of?

I asked the same question after I heard there might possibly be a problem. I was told there was no problem. My problem started with detonation in the #3 cylinder. At the track I could feel the engine pulling timing and I pulled the plugs. Ground electrode was melted in #3. The same problem then occurred in my #2 cylinder. I tried colder plugs and made sure C16 was untainted. Did not work. I replaced my injectors and the problem cleared up. Like I said, the damage was only slight because my car pulled timing. There was no damage to pistons, rings were not cracked or broken, but the rings in those two cylinders were not doing their job. Remarkably the cylinders were not scratched or marred in any way but power was down and oil consumption was up and increasing.

Now you know the reason I was asking about the J&S knock controller in another thread. The factory knock detector prevented major damage but was simply not fast enough to prevent all damage. The J&S unit starts pulling timing to the offending cylinder(s) on the next power stroke after knock is detected. By flipping a switch, the unit will pull timing in either 1 or 2 degree increments. In the 1 degree mode it will pull up to 10 degrees and in the 2 degree mode it will pull up to 20 degrees. Like I said, it only pulls timing to the appropriate cylinder, not the entire engine.
 
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crazy4life

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I have been hearing the same rumors off and on over the last year about the reflowed 72 injectors. Was thinking of switching to the 2013 injectors.
 

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