I want one
My custom Kenne Bell inlet tubing upgrade
- Thread starter k_kenley
- Start date
very cool!!
We've actually thought about building more to sell them. It would have to incorporate the twin 75mm GT throttle body though, so it would be a little pricey.
Looks good. If you made them to sell ditch the Twin 75mm. It's been proven that it is not needed. Causes flow problems on a lot of cars which causes tuning issues. The single blade 110mm flows ~1700cfms (depending how it's measured) and the Kenne Bell 2.8LH at like 27 psi does not even flow 1600 cfm. So adding the Twin 75mm just adds many problems. Just a tip if you do make more. Been through it with a couple of cars.
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Love it! I've always wanted to do something like that! One day!
Well, I finished building the fuel hat last night (Thanks for the help Tony), put the fuel tank up, and I'm finishing the wiring for the dual Boost-A-Pumps and dual fuel pump drivers.
I had to be REALLY careful putting the power wires for the 2nd pump through the fuel hat. There's a rubber grommet keeping the screws from touching the sides of the hole in the hat, then non-conductive spacers. Once it was assembled, I kept the wires disconnected from the fuel pump, set my multi-meter to resistance test, and touched one lead to the top of the screw and the other lead to the hat. If I got a tone, then the screws were grounding out on the hat. I did get a tone on the first try, which ended up being because the grommet had been torn up from loosening and tightening the screw a few times for fitment, so I just replaced the grommet and it fixed the problem.
The 2nd fuel pump driver module is on the backside of the mount plate.
I had to be REALLY careful putting the power wires for the 2nd pump through the fuel hat. There's a rubber grommet keeping the screws from touching the sides of the hole in the hat, then non-conductive spacers. Once it was assembled, I kept the wires disconnected from the fuel pump, set my multi-meter to resistance test, and touched one lead to the top of the screw and the other lead to the hat. If I got a tone, then the screws were grounding out on the hat. I did get a tone on the first try, which ended up being because the grommet had been torn up from loosening and tightening the screw a few times for fitment, so I just replaced the grommet and it fixed the problem.
The 2nd fuel pump driver module is on the backside of the mount plate.
Very interested to see the results of the DIY intake. Congrats on trying something new for more power!
ALMOST DONE!!!! I will be ready to do final installs of everything in the morning.
Okay, I've spent the last couple days doing test fits of the intake to figure out the best way to mount it, and modifying the wire loom. I had to fabricate a couple tools, and get the right fasteners to get to 2 bolts that the inlet covers up that bolt the lower intake plenum to the heads. I tried to:
1 - Install the lower intake, the assemble the intercooler, blower, and inlet as a separate assembly. That would've been the BEST way to go, but I wouldn't be able to bolt on the water inlet for the intercooler that bolts onto the front of the lower plenum because it would hit the block.
2 - Install the blower, intercooler, and lower plenum as a complete assembly, and then put the inlet on last. I would prefer that, but I couldn't easily access the lower inlet bolts easily because of how close it was to the firewall.
3 - The least favorable (Because of weight and awkwardness) Assemble EVERYTHING off the engine and install all as one unit. I had to settle on this route, but then I had to figure out how to put those back 2 bolts on and torque them down. I ended up buying a LONG "T" handle (About 10 inches) 5mm Allen wrench with a ball tip, cutting the handle off, and securing it into a socket. I then had to test to make sure I could get it to 21 inch/pounds of torgue with an almost 45 degree angle, and it ended up working.
Also, over Tuesday and Wednesday, I had to tear apart and redo the engine wire loom to make some changes:
1 - Eliminate where the loom comes from the MAIN connection on the passenger side, goes ALL THE WAY over to the driver side, then spreads out onto the engine. I could NEVER understand why Ford did that??
2 - Move the IAC and throttle wiring from the passenger side to the driver side.
3 - Move the vacuum valves from the driver side of the engine to the back corner of the engine compartment.
4 - Add the wiring for the mass air sensor and IAT sensor (They're normally on a separate loom.
Here's some pics of the wiring process.
This is the whole loom before I opened it up. The red is the part that I want to eliminate that Ford wasted space on. The green ones are where I need to move parts around, the blue it where I need to add the MAF and IAT wiring.
This is a close up showing the sections that I want to blend together. You will see zip ties throughout the loom, which are there to keep the junctions intact where the wires branch off from the main loom.
This is the loom after I've stripped off all of the covering.
This is a test fit after I've already moved things around. The MESS in the corner is the excess that was left after I blended that part that went behind the engine into the rest of the loom.
Another view of the test fit.
A close up of the MESS.
Another view of the test fit.
Test fitting with the inlet and blower to make sure everything clears, and to figure out how long to make the throttle and IAC wiring.
This is a view of where I have to add the MAF and IAT wiring.
Here's a demonstration of how I got rid of the MESS of extra wiring.
1st - Figure out a wire that's the RIGHT length to put the connector where you want it.
2nd - Take one of the wires that's too long.
3rd - Clip the long wire to match the correct length where it goes into the connector.
This is the stock style connector (You can buy them at specialty electronics places. I get them from Del Mar Wire in Ontario, Ca), and the special crimper that I use. You CAN'T use a generic crimper from an Auto Zone, Sears, etc because it has to curve the ends when it crimps.
This is the wires after I've crimped the shortened one.
Here's the connector ALL CLEANED UP. The ONLY wires that I didn't shorten were three that were wrapped in an aluminum shielding and went to the crank sensor. I just looped it back within the loom.
This is the loom all modded and ready to wrap up. The zip ties have now been replaced with electrical tape.
This is after I've put the plastic ribbing back on and wrapped it back up. I use the same non-adhesive wire loom wrap that they use at the factory. It's not cheap, but it gives a clean/OEM look to the loom.
Okay, I've spent the last couple days doing test fits of the intake to figure out the best way to mount it, and modifying the wire loom. I had to fabricate a couple tools, and get the right fasteners to get to 2 bolts that the inlet covers up that bolt the lower intake plenum to the heads. I tried to:
1 - Install the lower intake, the assemble the intercooler, blower, and inlet as a separate assembly. That would've been the BEST way to go, but I wouldn't be able to bolt on the water inlet for the intercooler that bolts onto the front of the lower plenum because it would hit the block.
2 - Install the blower, intercooler, and lower plenum as a complete assembly, and then put the inlet on last. I would prefer that, but I couldn't easily access the lower inlet bolts easily because of how close it was to the firewall.
3 - The least favorable (Because of weight and awkwardness) Assemble EVERYTHING off the engine and install all as one unit. I had to settle on this route, but then I had to figure out how to put those back 2 bolts on and torque them down. I ended up buying a LONG "T" handle (About 10 inches) 5mm Allen wrench with a ball tip, cutting the handle off, and securing it into a socket. I then had to test to make sure I could get it to 21 inch/pounds of torgue with an almost 45 degree angle, and it ended up working.
Also, over Tuesday and Wednesday, I had to tear apart and redo the engine wire loom to make some changes:
1 - Eliminate where the loom comes from the MAIN connection on the passenger side, goes ALL THE WAY over to the driver side, then spreads out onto the engine. I could NEVER understand why Ford did that??
2 - Move the IAC and throttle wiring from the passenger side to the driver side.
3 - Move the vacuum valves from the driver side of the engine to the back corner of the engine compartment.
4 - Add the wiring for the mass air sensor and IAT sensor (They're normally on a separate loom.
Here's some pics of the wiring process.
This is the whole loom before I opened it up. The red is the part that I want to eliminate that Ford wasted space on. The green ones are where I need to move parts around, the blue it where I need to add the MAF and IAT wiring.
This is a close up showing the sections that I want to blend together. You will see zip ties throughout the loom, which are there to keep the junctions intact where the wires branch off from the main loom.
This is the loom after I've stripped off all of the covering.
This is a test fit after I've already moved things around. The MESS in the corner is the excess that was left after I blended that part that went behind the engine into the rest of the loom.
Another view of the test fit.
A close up of the MESS.
Another view of the test fit.
Test fitting with the inlet and blower to make sure everything clears, and to figure out how long to make the throttle and IAC wiring.
This is a view of where I have to add the MAF and IAT wiring.
Here's a demonstration of how I got rid of the MESS of extra wiring.
1st - Figure out a wire that's the RIGHT length to put the connector where you want it.
2nd - Take one of the wires that's too long.
3rd - Clip the long wire to match the correct length where it goes into the connector.
This is the stock style connector (You can buy them at specialty electronics places. I get them from Del Mar Wire in Ontario, Ca), and the special crimper that I use. You CAN'T use a generic crimper from an Auto Zone, Sears, etc because it has to curve the ends when it crimps.
This is the wires after I've crimped the shortened one.
Here's the connector ALL CLEANED UP. The ONLY wires that I didn't shorten were three that were wrapped in an aluminum shielding and went to the crank sensor. I just looped it back within the loom.
This is the loom all modded and ready to wrap up. The zip ties have now been replaced with electrical tape.
This is after I've put the plastic ribbing back on and wrapped it back up. I use the same non-adhesive wire loom wrap that they use at the factory. It's not cheap, but it gives a clean/OEM look to the loom.
Attachments
Okay, after spending about 3 hours cleaning out the blower (I learned the HARD way why it's BAD to ice down the blower. I had some VERY light scuffing on my rotors from them contacting the case because I was cooling the case faster than the rotors. I took it by KB since I'm about 1 mile from them, and they said it was fine. I just took some 2000 grit sandpaper, and the blades don't contact anymore), then I cleaned out the intercooler and intake from ALOT of oil (I'm also installing an oil separator that I built). Everything has been sealed, torqued down, and is ready for final install onto the engine. I just have one little mod to do to the engine that I decided to do this morning.
IT'S ALIVE!!!!
I got it fired up tonight. It idles a bit high, but I still have to route some vacuum connections (I had the vacuum ports closed up while it was running so there were no leaks, but some of the sensors still need to have the lines routed to them). I also only had 1 fuel pump running, so I have to hook up the 2nd fuel pump and FPDM.
The Lentech kicks HARD into gear, and the little 2.4L blower has gotten a good bit louder, especially when I just crack the throttle. I will button up everything in the morning and pull it out onto the street for the 1st time since June.
Here's a little video of it. Sorry about the lack of lighting.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7PhgdqHd7s"]YouTube - Foxinator Rebuild Startup[/nomedia]
I got it fired up tonight. It idles a bit high, but I still have to route some vacuum connections (I had the vacuum ports closed up while it was running so there were no leaks, but some of the sensors still need to have the lines routed to them). I also only had 1 fuel pump running, so I have to hook up the 2nd fuel pump and FPDM.
The Lentech kicks HARD into gear, and the little 2.4L blower has gotten a good bit louder, especially when I just crack the throttle. I will button up everything in the morning and pull it out onto the street for the 1st time since June.
Here's a little video of it. Sorry about the lack of lighting.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7PhgdqHd7s"]YouTube - Foxinator Rebuild Startup[/nomedia]
Very nice ,it should be name kenne bell 2.4 mammoth:beer:
I did a little walkthrough of the inlet mods:
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oizd7KAMlOI"]YouTube - Foxinator Rebuild Walkthru[/nomedia]
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oizd7KAMlOI"]YouTube - Foxinator Rebuild Walkthru[/nomedia]
Okay, I've been driving the car for a few weeks, getting used to the Lentech automatic and working out the quirks in the car. Most of the issues have been worked out, so I just need to mainly button up the interior.
I decided to try a different throttle body. Accufab makes 2 TB's for the Ford GT Supercar, a twin 75mm and a mono blade. I had been told that the mono blade is a little hard to manage on the street because it moves so much air (up to 2300 CFM), so I went with the twin blade. I have since found out that Adam uses the Kenne Bell mono blade (Exact same as the Accufab, KB just got Accufab's permission to use them because Accufab didn't want to mess with making them with the throttle by wire set-up) on many of his cars, so I got a hold of the mono blade and swapped it on yesterday. It drove perfectly fine for me last night (The fact of me having an automatic probably makes it easier to use). GOSH, it only takes MAYBE 3/8" throttle AT MOST to cruise with that throttle body. Just a little crack moves ALOT of air. Here's some pics of the throttle body comparisons.
This is the engine as it sits right now. I am going to try an air filter on the passenger head, because I found some fresh oil that had been sucked into the intake.
Here's the mono-blade TB.
Here's the mono-blade and the twin-blade together.
Here's the mono-blade compared to the inlet from the old Accufab 03-04 Cobra mono-blade throttle body. This shows how much more air I'm moving with the new set-up.
This shows the Cobra inlet with the opening in my new inlet.
This shows the gasket I cut for the mono-blade TB against the Cobra inlet. This is the best indication of how much bigger this sucker is.
I decided to try a different throttle body. Accufab makes 2 TB's for the Ford GT Supercar, a twin 75mm and a mono blade. I had been told that the mono blade is a little hard to manage on the street because it moves so much air (up to 2300 CFM), so I went with the twin blade. I have since found out that Adam uses the Kenne Bell mono blade (Exact same as the Accufab, KB just got Accufab's permission to use them because Accufab didn't want to mess with making them with the throttle by wire set-up) on many of his cars, so I got a hold of the mono blade and swapped it on yesterday. It drove perfectly fine for me last night (The fact of me having an automatic probably makes it easier to use). GOSH, it only takes MAYBE 3/8" throttle AT MOST to cruise with that throttle body. Just a little crack moves ALOT of air. Here's some pics of the throttle body comparisons.
This is the engine as it sits right now. I am going to try an air filter on the passenger head, because I found some fresh oil that had been sucked into the intake.
Here's the mono-blade TB.
Here's the mono-blade and the twin-blade together.
Here's the mono-blade compared to the inlet from the old Accufab 03-04 Cobra mono-blade throttle body. This shows how much more air I'm moving with the new set-up.
This shows the Cobra inlet with the opening in my new inlet.
This shows the gasket I cut for the mono-blade TB against the Cobra inlet. This is the best indication of how much bigger this sucker is.
any updates on power numbers....great project...looks like a mini mammoth
+1
any numbers? fab is great, but 90% of fab turns out as fail. cfm and air flow on paper mean nothing if the engine can't use it. not trying to prevent you from trying new things again, but understand what works in theory rarely works in practice.
Nice fab work! I am interested to see the #'s for sure.
Are we going to see before and after hp numbers
Updates?
+1!
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