Looks like a bit of a waiting list for a Magnum XL at the moment, Hope to get some more info next week. Talked to the Shop where I take my Boss (ford will not help out on warranty since I did a direct import to Chile) and the shop owner offered to get me the box rebuilt, he was a little surprised to hear the idea of a swap and he does do the Shelbys here in Chile. Will get a quote for a complete rebuild with new bearings and syncros before going the Tremec route, though it still sounds the best route. Maybe try to get better quality parts etc with the MGW shifter........
MT82 gearbox problems
- Thread starter Splatter
- Start date
Installed an MGW in my Boss the day after picking it up and never had shifting or grinding issues. My problems didn't start till the horsepower doubled and I started breaking input shafts and other large internal metal bits.
Btw, a high horsepower Boss with a 6R80 trans is insanely fun to drive. :banana:
i bet it is. i just went from a 2013 MT82 to a 2013 auto. i didnt have any issues with my MT82 but it only had 3500mils on it. but the auto is a much nice tranny in these new 5.0s. it would be nice to put one in a GT500 they would sell them
My buddy had his syncros replaced for 5th gear at 9500 miles in his '12 LS. I am at 3500 in my '13 PW and I have had bad lock out issues while tracking the car at Homestead, also have had the clutch stick to the floor several times at the track too.
Have you removed that ass of an assist spring? Also have you changed the fluid over to DOT 4?
Have not removed the spring. I flushed out all of the fluid and replaced it with ATESuperBlue. Also have brake cooling ducts. I had no brake issues at all so I know I didn't cook the fluid. I am advanced driver and instructor with 30+ years of road coarse experience. About 90% of my track time has been in Mustangs and I am absolutely disgusted with this car after one track event. The lock out became so bad that I was nearly rear ended twice when the train behind me had to check up when my rate of acceration suddenly and unexpectedly slowed when I couldn't upshift. I was just reading on the other thread about the TSB on the early 2011 GT's with the "clutch stay out" problem. This describes exactly what is happening to me.
TSB 10-19-4 2011 Mustang Clutch Stayout at High RPM
ISSUE
Some 2011 Mustangs built on or before 4/25/2010 with a manual transmission and low mileage, typically 10,000 miles or less, may exhibit a clutch pedal stayout condition at very high engine RPM. This condition will generate a concern of the clutch pedal remaining on the floor during high engine RPM shifts. When engine RPM drops, clutch pedal operation returns to normal. but the re-engagement may be abrupt.
The clutch pedal Stayout is a condition where at DEALER CODING high engine RPM, centrifugal forces on the clutch CONDITION system can reduce the force with which the clutch BASIC PART NO. CODE diaphragm fingers push against the release bearing. 2455 01 This can result in the clutch pedal staying on the floor until engine RPM decreases and the diaphragm return force increases. 1. Replace the Brake Pedal and Bracket assembly.
Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 206-06.
PART NUMBER PART NAME BR3Z-2455-M Brake Pedal And Bracket (Black-3.7L/GT 5.0L w/Brembo Brakes) BR3Z-2455-P Brake Pedal And Bracket (Metallic-3.7L/GT 5.0L w/Brembo Brakes) BR3Z-2455-R Brake Pedal And Bracket (Black-GT 5.0L Standard Brakes) BR3Z-2455-T Brake Pedal And Bracket (Metallic-GT 5.0L Standard Brakes) NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do
TSB's do not mean there is for certain a problem with your Mustang. It just means that Ford has seen a lot of repairs for this particular problem, so they send a bulletin out to the dealers so they have general direction with warranties. ____________________________________
Removing the assist spring should do wonders, ad if you do it correctly you can always put it back in if it becomes a warranty issue. This has fixed a lot of issues for me, though at higher RPM's the clutch tries to push back harder then I feel it should. I also don't understand after reading that TSB how replacing the brake pedal will fix and issue with the clutch, then again I am no engineer.
Sounds like BS, I think the issue with the clutch sticking is the assist spring when pressed down at higher RPM's binds, the other issue with the peddle pushing back too much at higher RPM's can be fixed by a braided steel clutch line, but I can't substantiate that since I have to do it.
Still waiting for my MGW shifter and a price for new syncros. Probably look at the rest of the box as well, bearings etc. Then have to decide between T56 or rebuild
I drive a Land Rover Defender for work here in Chile and found out that it also has the MT82!!! We have 10 defenders with the MT82 with nearly a combined total of a million kilometers. So far not one failure of a syncro but these boxes are made in the UK and they only have 220 ft/lbs. Not likely to shift at 7500 rpm in a diesel!!!
Who would have thought a Landrover jeep would have the same box as a Boss 302.....
I drive a Land Rover Defender for work here in Chile and found out that it also has the MT82!!! We have 10 defenders with the MT82 with nearly a combined total of a million kilometers. So far not one failure of a syncro but these boxes are made in the UK and they only have 220 ft/lbs. Not likely to shift at 7500 rpm in a diesel!!!
Who would have thought a Landrover jeep would have the same box as a Boss 302.....
true thats where the came from, but also ford has china making them at a lower cost.
Is there a how to on this spring removal?
I have the braided steel clutch line, MGW shifter, Redline tranny fluid and DOT 4 brake fluid with brake cooling ducts and still have shifting lock-out and the clutch sticking to the floor when tracking my car. The MGW helped some but did not solve the problem as promised. IMO the problem is a combination of the slave, TO bearing and pressure plate not being able to handle the heat and high revs. I sure hope Ford comes up with a solution for these issues. While there have been a few isolated tranny failures I believe most of the shifting issues are clutch related.
Glad I'm not the only one... I hope this issue gets solved for us
Ford will Never make good for its customers. Look at all the money people spent out of their pocket for Spark plugs blowing out of their engines, and customers with bad 6.0 Diesel motors
Hi, a update on my tranny problems. Got the box rebuilt with a new set of syncros and MGW shifter. Put in the same oil as Landrover uses in the MT82 (Castrol from Germany). So far so good...no noise, nice shifting and after a few trys no crunching on high rev changes. The MGW shifter is brand new so a little bit stiff but very short crisp changes.
Fingers crossed!!
Fingers crossed!!
Thanks for the update, and good luck with the trans! (I was going to say tranny, but that sounded weird!)
Just a fyi of my situation. I noticed a few times when I ran through the gears that I would have a missed gear. I moved my seat one notch closer ( it now feels to close for my upper body) and I have not missed a gear since. I am so comfortable with it now I can power shift at 7500 with no issues. Just saying the clutch travel is very deep in the foot well... If you don't hit the bottom of the floor when you depress the clutch, your seat position might be part of the issue...
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