Monoblade issues

lenny127

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As I've seen this has happened to a few on here I didn't really see a solution . Yesterday I installed the SCJ intake, monoblade and FRPP CAI . I have a base map from AED (where I have been dyno tuned a couple of times through the years always without issue ) anyways yesterday I go test it and it's a hot SoCal day 90 + temps ... After a few minutes goes into a fail mode and spits out throttle actuator code P2112 or whatever it was . Shaun believes it's either sticking (which I sanded it and lubed it ) or just a junk TB . Today I go early morning 70 degrees and the car runs perfect for 30 miles then it starts raising idle to 1200-1500 at the stop light , then it holds closer to 2k ... And when I shift it doesn't come down between gears , that would coincide with it sticking but it also raises the rpm at idle on its own .



Bought the entire CJ set up from weir racing in March and yesterday was the first time it was used , they tell me sorry we don't get warranty or shit on FRPP parts it's buy as is so looks like if it's a bad TB I'm gonna shove it up my ass .


Waiting for Tasca to reply so I can buy a new one provided I can exchange it if it's bad . I have an appt Saturday to dyno tune at AED so I'm trying to make this happen and be convinced I'm not gonna get stranded since I'm 450 miles away .

FBO on e85 2014 track pack car . Any further ideas or suggestions would be appreciated
 

Jumpmaster2015

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Sounds redundant, but check double check and triple check the wiring work you did at the harness. I had similar issues and the culprit was one of the pins not being fully seated into the new connector. I would do whatever it takes to rule out a bad TB, that would suck.

BTW I just switched from Bama to AED with my SCJ setup this week. You're going to love how smooth it is.
 

KushBandit

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Sounds like your throttle body is junk. Happened to another member here, myself included. What you mention is exactly what my throttle body did. I bought a new one and haven't seen the issue since. Your best bet is to bite the bullet and get a new one, since replacing the actuator and sensor don't fix the issue.

Weir Racing is full of shit though, FRPP warranties their parts. A 1-year factory limited-warranty is the law.

PS. I saw your message, I can upload a video showing you how to rewind the spring if you still need to whine yours.
 
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Bullitt 3309

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Bought the entire CJ set up from weir racing in March and yesterday was the first time it was used , they tell me sorry we don't get warranty or shit on FRPP parts it's buy as is so looks like if it's a bad TB I'm gonna shove it up my ass .

If you have a bill of sale contact FRPP direct. I would also see where that statement from Weir is about no warrantee on FRPP... Sounds like a case for a charge back...
 

bazinga11

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If worst comes to worst, did you pay via PayPal? I'm not sure how their claim system works if the seller says there is no warranty, but worth a shot if you tell PayPal you received a faulty unit..when you paid for a new fully functional one.
 

lenny127

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I bought it in March but was stocking up on parts like RST twin disc , MGW race spec etc , installed those so last weekend I finally did the CJ set up . Part was bought new but took me 4-5 months to get around to the install .


New Tasca TB on the way gets here tomorrow . I called accufab which makes these TB and are local to me , they said they would inspect it and fix it free of charge .


The TB is getting better , it won't throw a code and for 30 minutes drives fine , after a while only at slow speeds when u come up to a stop the idle raises on its own and then rpm starts to hold between gears instead of dropping .


Very weird shit , Shaun tells me he's seen others that drive it for a while and it fixes itself as if it was breaking in .

Not taking chances hoping Tasca one is good right off the bat
 

Bullitt 3309

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New Tasca TB on the way gets here tomorrow . I called accufab which makes these TB and are local to me , they said they would inspect it and fix it free of charge .

Lucky man to have them local. I spoke to the head guy, John? for about an hour on the phone when I was troubleshooting the TB. FRPP actually told me to call Accufab. He stated he would inspect repair it for a small fee, but I couldn't swing being down for over a week. I would like to see what he finds...
 

lenny127

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Went out for the last time on the first TB ... Temps are cooler so it lasts longer but I let it sit idling for a while and eventually the idle starts raising and the TB starts opening in its own . I put on 250 miles on it since Sunday and I'm done with it . The second one that I bought from Tasca gets here tomorrow and I sure hope to shit it runs without issue .


This type shit is annoying , and yeah I hear ya this is my daily driver so being down isn't really an option even if I can get another ride to hold me over
 

KushBandit

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Please let us know how it runs with the new throttle body. It seems the monoblades can be "hit or miss". Perhaps a bad batch was made some time ago and we got the faulty ones. I sent Accufab an email to inquire about sending my faulty TB to them, as they're fairly local to me as well.

Regardless, I'm sure your issue will be fixed. It sucks sitting at a light and having the engine rev on its own. Mine would also occasionally force close during WOT. It ran decent on cold nights but would start acting up when running during a warm day.
 

Eric@BBR

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I cringe every time someone contacts us about tuning a monoblade, of any brand. They do seem to be very hit and miss. We have same that will go off without a hitch, and some that will just not cooperate or respond to any changes we make. Then the customer looks at us as to why we can't tune it. I know Whipple is having an issue with the monoblade TB's that come with their kits. Apparently they are the only ones that have correct calibration support for them. SCT, HP and others are not able to access all the necessary parameters apparently.
 

KushBandit

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Just got an email back from Accufab stating that they would gladly inspect and repair my faulty throttle body. Sending it in and I will give an update when I get it back.
 

lenny127

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well got the new monoblade from tasca .... put it on and within 20 it does the same crap. idle moves towards 1500 then 2000 ...then hangs rpm between shifts....


these TB are 6-7 months apart in purchase from different parts of the country .... how can it be the tb ....

anyways this one now spit out p0507 idle air control system rpm higher than expected.

i checked my re pinning 5 times, its the right color sequence, its the right height of end terminals, i checked all connections, i cleaned maf, ...


i emailed shaun and he thinks it may now be a vacuum leak which i am not really sure how i can get a leak 20-30 minutes after driving the car only .... but i am keeping all options open. he assures me i just got the standard base map so nothing different than what hes done with dozens of others, so here are my last 3 options that i can think of


going to do a log for him he asked for throttle blade angle to see if its tb or vacuum

i can re check everything again that could leak

and finally and maybe i am reaching here, when i tried to flash the car back to stock i had issues with the sct and my car bricking the ecu .... had to disconnect ecu , battery and jump it and after like 3 tries it pushed the stock tune on so i could update my sct and load his base map


idk maybe thje base map got loaded corrupted ? idk crap about computers but i am running out of ideas and im 1200 deep into two new tbs .....



ready to set the car on fire lol
 

redline5.0

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well got the new monoblade from tasca .... put it on and within 20 it does the same crap. idle moves towards 1500 then 2000 ...then hangs rpm between shifts....


these TB are 6-7 months apart in purchase from different parts of the country .... how can it be the tb ....

anyways this one now spit out p0507 idle air control system rpm higher than expected.

i checked my re pinning 5 times, its the right color sequence, its the right height of end terminals, i checked all connections, i cleaned maf, ...


i emailed shaun and he thinks it may now be a vacuum leak which i am not really sure how i can get a leak 20-30 minutes after driving the car only .... but i am keeping all options open. he assures me i just got the standard base map so nothing different than what hes done with dozens of others, so here are my last 3 options that i can think of


going to do a log for him he asked for throttle blade angle to see if its tb or vacuum

i can re check everything again that could leak

and finally and maybe i am reaching here, when i tried to flash the car back to stock i had issues with the sct and my car bricking the ecu .... had to disconnect ecu , battery and jump it and after like 3 tries it pushed the stock tune on so i could update my sct and load his base map


idk maybe thje base map got loaded corrupted ? idk crap about computers but i am running out of ideas and im 1200 deep into two new tbs .....



ready to set the car on fire lol

It's possible something is corrupt. Return it to stock tune, clear all the tunes on the hand held and put them in a different order and reflash and see what happens. If it was anybody but shaun I would say it was a tune issue but he really has these monoblades running great.
 

Bullitt 3309

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There is a chance of a crack in the intake as well. Look where the intake is "welded" together. Most of the porting is done to clean the mismatching of the top to bottom. My first intake was received broken from tasca because the intake was not padded well. A corner mount broke off. Yours could have a hairline crack somewhere. Talk to Shaun to see how to trace a vacuum leak using carb cleaner or starting fluid I believe.
 

lenny127

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I don't see how it can be a vacuum leak .

The car is normal for 20-30 minutes , then and ONLY then idle starts rising on its own , also if I hit the AC button while this is happening the idle goes back to 750 or 800 from 1500-2000 . AC button can't stop a vacuum leak . Also if the car is to the point it does the high idle and holds rpm on its own I turn off the car and immediately turn it on and it idles fine . Physical problems like vacuum leaks don't appear and disappear at the push of a button or turn of a key .


I don't doubt Shaun can tune this with his eyes closed so I don't see that as a variable to be concerned about . But when I tried to go to stock my ecu took a crap twice and had to jump the car to force the stock tune and the second time I had to try 3 times after a failed message before the stock tune took and I could load the new map onto the SCT .

That's why I thought maybe the data was corrupted but again why would it do it only after the car sat idling for 15 minutes and let IAT climb to 130-150


I'll log this morning per Shaun's request to see throttle angle and I'll log what happens when I push the AC button too , to me this is an electronic problem and TB for some reason is getting the command to open up when it gets too hot .


I'll keep you posted as to what we learn as we go along , my appt @ AED Saturday not looking too promising :(
 

KushBandit

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That's unfortunate that you're still having the issue. Perhaps you have an underlying electronically issue. Hopefully Shaun can figure it out, the man knows the coyote platform as well as anyone can.
 

Shaun@AED

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I got this. ;-)
Fuel trims spike 25% lean and idle RPM increases once the engine warms up. My diagnosis is a leak in the Evap system. When the solenoid opens the engien runs lean.
I also believe there is a vacuum leak elsewhere as the throttle cannot close enough to control idle RPM when this leak occurs and when at a normal idle RPM the ECU is running negative ignition timing to bring the idle down.

Car should be at my shop on Saturday for further diagnostics.
 

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