So I saw this Black saleen in a parking garage and that thing just SHINED SO sexy. Almost looked like an exotic vehicle. I know most will recommend ZAINO but I went to their site and I'm so confused.... What are all the products do I need to buy in order to get that mirror/wet amazing shine to the vehicle?
mirror shine? what all do I need to buy?
- Thread starter svtcobra2k3
- Start date
for something like this, you'll need a good polish, glaze and wax. Not to mention an orbital buffer, and quality pads. Visit specialtymotoringproducts.com and talk to Scott. I prefer optimum compound, optimum polish, red machine glaze, and carnuba moose wax.
Mother of God, that is shiney and I am jealous!!!!!!!!
I wrote this once in response to another question, but I think it fits well here. too. Mirror finishes are mostly about prep rather than product. Also, keep in mind you were in a parking garage. Clean black cars parked in the shade will almost always look great.
Swirls are difficult to remove by hand. It came be done, but it is a slow process. Swirl removal and reduction is best accomplished by machine. For an enthusiast, that machine is the Porter Cable 7424 or 7336SP. They are the same machine, with only a few differences in packaging. The 724 is found online at multiple vendors. The 7336SP can be found at Lowe’s for $109.
As far as product goes, Zaino is very good. The durability is unmatched. They do have a swirl remover now, ZPC Fusion, that seems to be effective if you wish to stick with that system. Otherwise, keep on reading for some listings of other stuff that I carry.
Once you get the PC, you’ll want to first order the Buffing Pad Starter Kit. It includes four buffing pads and the six inch Velcro backing plate that you’ll need. You get an Orange Light Cutting Pad for the heavier swirls, two White Polishing Pads, for general polishing, and a Blue Final Finishing Pad for glazes and waxes/sealants.
For swirl removal, I recommend Poorboy’s SSR2.5 and SSR1 and for the swirls. I’d start out with SSR2.5 on a White Polishing Pad first to see effective that combination is. Work a 2 ft x 2 ft area at top speed until the polish begins to dry up. Use slow, overlapping passes both up and down and side to side. Stop the machine and buff off the polish to check your work. If you notice a change, continue with that combination. Otherwise, step up to SSR2.5 and the Orange Light Cutting Pad. Repeat the above process. Because you are using a light cutting pad, you will want to follow up with SSR2.5 on a polishing pad. Finish off with SSR1 and the other polishing pad. Because you are working with an orbital polisher and not a rotary, you may not get 100% of the swirls out. You may have some light marring that has been reduced by the polishes. Your glazing and waxing steps will help those.
I tell my customers who are doing this for the first time to do the whole process on one panel before going on to the rest of the car. For example, you could do all the polishing steps on you driver’s side front fender. You’ll then have an ides of how long each product takes to work and how much to use. Plus, you’ll have a benchmark panel to reference as you go around to the rest of the car.
Once the polishing is done, you’ll notice a huge difference in the finish. Now you get to add some depth and wetness along with protection for the finish. I’d go with either ClearKote Vanilla Moose or Red Moose Machine Glaze. I find the Vanilla Moose a tad easier to use, but Red Machine Glaze gives a deeper look. Vanilla Moose does a bit better job of hiding the remaining swirls or marring that couldn’t be polished out. The Blue Final Finishing Pad on the PC used at speed 4 works great for either of the two products.
The final coat is your wax. I personally like ClearKote Carnauba Moose Wax. It is the most durable wax I have and it looks fantastic on reds and blacks. You’ll need less than an ounce to do the whole car. If you are a fan of paste waxes, then Poorboy’s Natty’s Blue Paste Wax would be my choice. If you like a sealant, go with Poorboy’s EX Sealant with Carnauba.
To maintain that shine, grab some ClearKote Quik Shine. It is excellent on all surfaces, including glass. It doesn’t contain waxes or silicones and leaves a clean, slick and shiny surface behind. I like to use it after washing the car. Poorboy’s Spray & Gloss also works well. If you’d like to add some more carnauba to the mix, Poorboy’s QW+ is a quick detailer with carnauba wax.
I hope this helps.
Swirls are difficult to remove by hand. It came be done, but it is a slow process. Swirl removal and reduction is best accomplished by machine. For an enthusiast, that machine is the Porter Cable 7424 or 7336SP. They are the same machine, with only a few differences in packaging. The 724 is found online at multiple vendors. The 7336SP can be found at Lowe’s for $109.
As far as product goes, Zaino is very good. The durability is unmatched. They do have a swirl remover now, ZPC Fusion, that seems to be effective if you wish to stick with that system. Otherwise, keep on reading for some listings of other stuff that I carry.
Once you get the PC, you’ll want to first order the Buffing Pad Starter Kit. It includes four buffing pads and the six inch Velcro backing plate that you’ll need. You get an Orange Light Cutting Pad for the heavier swirls, two White Polishing Pads, for general polishing, and a Blue Final Finishing Pad for glazes and waxes/sealants.
For swirl removal, I recommend Poorboy’s SSR2.5 and SSR1 and for the swirls. I’d start out with SSR2.5 on a White Polishing Pad first to see effective that combination is. Work a 2 ft x 2 ft area at top speed until the polish begins to dry up. Use slow, overlapping passes both up and down and side to side. Stop the machine and buff off the polish to check your work. If you notice a change, continue with that combination. Otherwise, step up to SSR2.5 and the Orange Light Cutting Pad. Repeat the above process. Because you are using a light cutting pad, you will want to follow up with SSR2.5 on a polishing pad. Finish off with SSR1 and the other polishing pad. Because you are working with an orbital polisher and not a rotary, you may not get 100% of the swirls out. You may have some light marring that has been reduced by the polishes. Your glazing and waxing steps will help those.
I tell my customers who are doing this for the first time to do the whole process on one panel before going on to the rest of the car. For example, you could do all the polishing steps on you driver’s side front fender. You’ll then have an ides of how long each product takes to work and how much to use. Plus, you’ll have a benchmark panel to reference as you go around to the rest of the car.
Once the polishing is done, you’ll notice a huge difference in the finish. Now you get to add some depth and wetness along with protection for the finish. I’d go with either ClearKote Vanilla Moose or Red Moose Machine Glaze. I find the Vanilla Moose a tad easier to use, but Red Machine Glaze gives a deeper look. Vanilla Moose does a bit better job of hiding the remaining swirls or marring that couldn’t be polished out. The Blue Final Finishing Pad on the PC used at speed 4 works great for either of the two products.
The final coat is your wax. I personally like ClearKote Carnauba Moose Wax. It is the most durable wax I have and it looks fantastic on reds and blacks. You’ll need less than an ounce to do the whole car. If you are a fan of paste waxes, then Poorboy’s Natty’s Blue Paste Wax would be my choice. If you like a sealant, go with Poorboy’s EX Sealant with Carnauba.
To maintain that shine, grab some ClearKote Quik Shine. It is excellent on all surfaces, including glass. It doesn’t contain waxes or silicones and leaves a clean, slick and shiny surface behind. I like to use it after washing the car. Poorboy’s Spray & Gloss also works well. If you’d like to add some more carnauba to the mix, Poorboy’s QW+ is a quick detailer with carnauba wax.
I hope this helps.
crizzut said:
for something like this, you'll need a good polish, glaze and wax. Not to mention an orbital buffer, and quality pads. Visit specialtymotoringproducts.com and talk to Scott. I prefer optimum compound, optimum polish, red machine glaze, and carnuba moose wax.
everything you need is @ SMP! :rockon: Also dont forget a porter cable.
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