McLeod RXT chatter...how much is normal?

[Yagermeister]

Just installed a McLeod RXT (reused stock flywheel) in my 2010 GT500 along with Shelby lowering motor mounts. Already had a Barton Shifter. I fully understand there is a break in period. I am doing 500 miles since I also just dropped in a FRPP short block. The 1-2 issue was manageable before and all other shifts were perfect. Now the 1-2 is horrible and the 2-3 and 3-4 get a lot of chatter and experience a little bit of the same issue as the 1-2. The clutch feel is great and the engagement point is taking a little getting used to. I have already figured out this clutch needs more rpm and is more on/off vs liking slip while leaving a light. The chatter leaving a light and now also between the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 is loud and is ever present. Anything regarding install we should double check or is it normal during break in? Sounds like something in my dash is shaking loose the time. Any thoughts will be appreciated!

 

[TerminatorSVT03]

your issue may come from re-using your stock flywheel

 

[Yagermeister]

Quote from their website:
" The RXT Street Twin Clutch Assembly is the solution to extreme street-able horsepower. The RXT can handle up to 1000 HP while still maintaining light pedal effort and excellent street characteristics. Since this assembly adapts to most applications, there is no need to purchase a new flywheel, which considerably lowers the overall cost of the unit."

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

Quote from their website:
" The RXT Street Twin Clutch Assembly is the solution to extreme street-able horsepower. The RXT can handle up to 1000 HP while still maintaining light pedal effort and excellent street characteristics. Since this assembly adapts to most applications, there is no need to purchase a new flywheel, which considerably lowers the overall cost of the unit."

but was the stock flywheel turned? Depending on how it was worn/grooved it could be causing an issue. I have an RXT in my 03 Mach 1 and Ive never had any chatter issues

 

[Yagermeister]

Supposedly you do not need to turn these because they are not used as a friction surface

 

[builttodrive]

Quote from their website:
" The RXT Street Twin Clutch Assembly is the solution to extreme street-able horsepower. The RXT can handle up to 1000 HP while still maintaining light pedal effort and excellent street characteristics. Since this assembly adapts to most applications, there is no need to purchase a new flywheel, which considerably lowers the overall cost of the unit."

Yes but if your flywheel had a slight uneven surface and you didn't have it re-surfaced before the new clutch install you just transfer that to the new clutch. I think the twin disc clutches are prone to have a little. I had a stock clutch with horrible chatter and installed the RXT with a new flywheel and it pretty much went away. Now if you didn't have it before and you do now it may be something different.

 

[VNMOUS1]

Supposedly you do not need to turn these because they are not used as a friction surface

Exactly

 

[Yagermeister]

Is the use of a 2007-9 bearing required when installing this on a 2010?

 

[Speedboosted]

Is the use of a 2007-9 bearing required when installing this on a 2010?

Yes. I went directly to Lee at McLeod because I kept getting varying answers. He told me that on my 2011, I needed the older style (07-09) TOB to make it work. He also mentioned that it is the same TOB as the 05+ mustang gt so I picked it up for $140 from Latemodel Resto.

 

[RedZR]

Where is it engaging- low (near floor) or high?
Dan

 

[VNMOUS1]

Is the use of a 2007-9 bearing required when installing this on a 2010?

Yes

 

[TORQJNKY]

I have an RXT on my 13 and it still chatters on low rpm take offs even after about 2500 miles. Rev it a little on take off and it's fine.

 

[Yagermeister]

Changing out to the 2007-2009 bearing and we'll see if it gets better

 

[69b302]

Supposedly you do not need to turn these because they are not used as a friction surface

Re-using your stock worn flywheel is your problem. The flywheel was a friction surface when I ran my RXT, so not sure what type of setup you have in which the above could be true.

 

[Yagermeister]

69b302 what yr is your gt500 and what part number did you use of the RXT? I confirmed with VMP and McLeod yesterday the stock flywheel is supposed to be used as it is not a friction surface when using a RXT with a 2010 GT500

 

[GT500RedStripe]

Watch this video at 3:00 regarding why or when YOU SHOULD change the flywheel:

[youtube_browser]kW34B532VI0[/youtube_browser]

 

[Bad Company]

Supposedly you do not need to turn these because they are not used as a friction surface

HUH???

The flywheel may not be a friction material, but it is the contact surface plate that the friction material must adhere to with a coefficient of friction between the two surfaces . The smoother the flywheel is on initial installation of the clutch, the better. The chatter is coming from the ceramic drive disc trying to skip across the irregular surface of the steel surface/plates of the clutch and flywheel as the clutch is being engaged

 

[Yagermeister]

For more details:

I bought the McLeod 6975-07M seen here:




With this particular clutch you CANNOT use any flywheel other than the stock one.

This clutch comes preassembled so there is no setup issue.

@GT500RedStripe, your video refers to an UNsprung hub design and this one is a Sprung hub design. I believe the CNC-machined and anodized flywheel adapter ring takes the place of the stock flywheel in the way it bolts to the flywheel...but I may be wrong.

Also please remember this is a 2010 GT500

I talked to another shop today and they also confirmed the need to use the 2007-09 throwout bearing BUT I then had to call Lee at McLeod due to an install issue my mechanic was having. Lee backtracked on what his coworker said yesterday stating "whoever is telling you to use an 07-09 throwout bearing is wrong period." Lee says that using the 07-09 throwout bearing with a 2010 GT500 will cause the clutch to be preloaded and will slip. So that leaves me in the middle with the manufacturer changing their mind on what they are telling vendors regarding what throwout bearing to use. I just want to get it installed without a lot of chatter and without it making horrible scratching noises from 2-4k. I want it to actually go into all gears at any rpm and I want the engagement point to be correct (not at the top).

I may just reinstall my stock slave cylinder/throwout bearing and stock 2010 clutch and try to get a refund if this isn't resolved first thing in the morning as I can't have the car down any more.

This is not a bashing of any manufacturer or vendor. I just need to confirm what parts or install tips to put on or do to solve my issues! If needed PM me if discreetness is desired

 

[VNMOUS1]

This be the trick to using the M clutch on a '10

http://vmptuning.com/07-12-gt500-drivetrain/4r3z-7a508-aa/

bj

 

[Yagermeister]

BJ, that is what you said to me on the phone yesterday as well as some other rep at McLeod (not Lee) yesterday but today while trying that new part the trans wasn't going in well so I called Lee at McLeod and he said that is wrong and to keep using the stock one so I am not sure what to do or who to believe if the manufacturer says not to use it