Maximum motorsports Solid Steering Shaft

Quadcammer

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I know some people were looking for some feedback here, so I'll try my best.

Part: I paid $200 for this. The part was new from a private seller, but had been sitting and therefore had some surface rust. I believed this to be no big deal, but it ended up being a pain. More on that later.

Install: Removing the stock piece was a piece of cake. The black plastic sleeve as a bit of a pain to remove, but eventually came off after wrapping an adjustable wrench around the shaft, and tapping down on the wrench (which was resting on the sleeve) with a hammer.

However, the surface rust mentioned above also prevented the telescoping upper shaft from coming out of the outer shaft (shipped all the way in). It needed some hammering to get it moving again. That was the biggest bitch.

Now there is always a chance I installed this improperly, but when bolted in on both sides, the plastic sleeve was not snug against the firewall. Although I believe you could extend the lower shaft to get it snug, I don't feel like it would stay that way, so I simply slid the sleeve up against the firewall. Its not up against the ujoint. Either way, no sealing issues are apparent.

Finally, installing the rubber accordion on the top extension joint before sliding it through the firewall is impossible. I had to install that accordion after getting it through the firewall.

So overall the install instructions were not as good as MM's usually are, but in the end, it was no biggie to install.

Feel: You can immediately notice the difference. It doesn't give you Porsche steering feel, but you do get significantly more feedback on what the tires are doing. When combined with the alu steering rack bushings, you really get a sense of how much bumpsteer a lowered mustang has. I need to work on that still.

The steering feels much tighter and more responsive, and it seems like the car attacks the corners much more quickly. I didn't get to do too much corner carving, but on the ones I did hit, it really felt better. On the highway it feels about the same. Still a bit numb, but you can't be driving it like you're in a movie.

It doesn't transform the car into a BMW (i may have exaggerated in my other post), but anything that can be done to improve the steering feel in a mustang is good.

I would probably do the rack bushings first. They are cheaper and probably provide a bigger impact, but this is a good mod regardless.

Bottom Line: If you care about steering and handling, and own a mustang, you need this shaft and the rack bushings. Period.
 

Lumpydogs

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Finally, installing the rubber accordion on the top extension joint before sliding it through the firewall is impossible. I had to install that accordion after getting it through the firewall.


I installed my MM shaft a few weeks ago. I sent an e-mail to MM about the
same rubber accordion issue and suggested they change the instructions to what you did (same as I did) install the rubber piece after poking the shaft thru the fire wall. They sent me an e-mail back and said that tech was reviewing it :shrug:

At least now I know I'm not the only knucklehead that couldn't make it work per the instructions. :rolling:
 

Quadcammer

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Jeff, I'm not surprised. I can't see how anyone could have gotten that to work.

Was your middle ujoint up against the firewall when you installed it?
 

LargeOrangeFont

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I was able to get mine through the firewall with the rubber cover on. I don't remember having any trouble with that.

As stock, the plastic sleeve does not sit all the way up against the firewall, so having it protrude is not a big deal. I ended up using RTV to secure the sleeve to the U joint, and both protrude about an inch, if not slightly more from the firewall.

During the install I sat there for 10 minutes tring to figure out what was wrong, then called my friend to look at his stock shaft. He said his protruded as well. I had not paid enough attention to the stock shaft during disassembly.

I found the alumnium rack bushings to be a better bang for the buck (obviously). I did the rack bushings on my car first, and the difference was ammazing for the price and effort involved. I would say the solid steering shaft added the same amount of improvement on top of the alumnium bushings, just at a higher cost. Both parts are well worth the cost if you care about handling and responsiveness at all.
 
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SKMCOBRA

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I sold mine new still in the bag to someone earlier this year because it wouldn't fit between my longtubes w/o removing them...and I didn't have the patience for that. I guess I need to do the steering rack bushings since that is simpler and cheap and you are so highly recommending it.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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I sold mine new still in the bag to someone earlier this year because it wouldn't fit between my longtubes w/o removing them...and I didn't have the patience for that. I guess I need to do the steering rack bushings since that is simpler and cheap and you are so highly recommending it.

You could make your steering shaft solid. There are a few ways to do it- 1. By replacing the rag joint with something solid (hockey puck etc). 2. A ball bearing U joint in place of the lower rag joint.
 
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Lumpydogs

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Jeff, I'm not surprised. I can't see how anyone could have gotten that to work.

Was your middle ujoint up against the firewall when you installed it?

From memmory(???), I believe the middle u-joint was near the firewall but not touching. The plastic sleeve butts up against the firewall and holds the u-joint just off the surface.

Street driving I cannot feel any difference after replacing the steering shaft. MM warns of the possibility of increased vibration, but I don't feel any. On track however, I needed much less steering correction input during hard corners and long corners. Not a huge difference but noticeable. BTW, I already had aluminum rack bushings and delrin front control arm bushings.
 

20psirabbit

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i read the instructions on this shaft, and i was kinda thrown off about having to center the rack and all this other stuff. i was thinking for the money saved to just replace the rag joint with a hockey puck (but i don't know if it's too thick or might melt?) or aluminum or something like that as LargeOrangeFont said. i wish somebody made a bolt-in rag joint replacement, it would be cheap and i'm sure it would be popular :shrug:
i don't mind making stuff if need be, but usually others having better tooling and skills than i do, and i like putting something in as opposed to having the car down while i figure something out haha.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Borgenson makes a U joint that you can use to replace the lower rag joint. The U joint is $75 and I believe is set screwed into place. You could weld it in place as well.
 

20psirabbit

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I picked one up in the meantime so now I can look at it. I would guess you don't want put paint directly into the bearing assemblies, and you may not want to paint the part of the shaft where you put the black plastic sleeve from the stock shaft. Other than that you're probably good :beer:
 

Sirl

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I sold mine new still in the bag to someone earlier this year because it wouldn't fit between my longtubes w/o removing them...and I didn't have the patience for that. I guess I need to do the steering rack bushings since that is simpler and cheap and you are so highly recommending it.

Good info here.

I've got full MM suspension, but not the solid steering shaft. Its next on my list (MMST-14)

I'm wondering if anyone has this on a 99-04 (mine is a 2000) GT, with Mac Long Tube headers...

Any idea if I will have fitment issues? I've got the K member, A arms, rack bushing already installed if that matters.

Thanks for any feedback :beer:

~Mitch
 

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