Malfunctioning gauge cluster help!

[SVTerror]

A few days ago I realized my stock water/coolant temperature gauge stopped working. It stays below "C" and does not rise to indicate normal operating temperatures (middle of "C" and "H"). When I try the gauge cluster tester (holding the odometer reset button while turning on the ignition), the water/coolant temperature gauge goes all the way to the "H" then back below "C". Judging by this, the needle is not stuck. The car is not throwing any codes (service engine soon light is not on) and the only after-market gauge I have is the boost gauge.

I searched online to see what the possible cause was and also spoke to a Ford mechanic about it. He told me to check the thermostat and to check the coolant temperature sensor. So I checked the thermostat, it seems to be good. I replaced my coolant temperature sensor because to be safe. I took it for a drive lastnight after changing the sensor and my gauge stayed below "C" and did not move until I came back onto my street when it suddenly jumped up to normal operating temperature. This morning, the gauge stayed below "C" as I drove it around :cuss:.

My question is: What is the solutions to my problem? I want to keep the stock gauge cluster. What is causing this and how can I go about fixing it? Any ideas would be appriciated.:shrug:

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

A few days ago I realized my stock water/coolant temperature gauge stopped working. It stays below "C" and does not rise to indicate normal operating temperatures (middle of "C" and "H"). When I try the gauge cluster tester (holding the odometer reset button while turning on the ignition), the water/coolant temperature gauge goes all the way to the "H" then back below "C". Judging by this, the needle is not stuck. The car is not throwing any codes (service engine soon light is not on) and the only after-market gauge I have is the boost gauge.

I searched online to see what the possible cause was and also spoke to a Ford mechanic about it. He told me to check the thermostat and to check the coolant temperature sensor. So I checked the thermostat, it seems to be good. I replaced my coolant temperature sensor because to be safe. I took it for a drive lastnight after changing the sensor and my gauge stayed below "C" and did not move until I came back onto my street when it suddenly jumped up to normal operating temperature. This morning, the gauge stayed below "C" as I drove it around :cuss:.

My question is: What is the solutions to my problem? I want to keep the stock gauge cluster. What is causing this and how can I go about fixing it? Any ideas would be appriciated.:shrug:

Currently my tach is sticking.

I am thinking about buying a junk yard cluster and swapping out the tach into my cluster.

This may be a possible solution for you and your sticking coolant temp gauge.

Though if it was mine, I would probably not bother with it since it is such a vague semi-worthless POS gauge anyway even when it is working correctly.:nonono:

If this happened to me and I did not already have a full sweep accurate temp gauge of some type, I would buy and install one and ignore the factory gauge.

 

[SVTerror]

I would love to do that, but since my car is near stock right now, I didn't think it was necessary. I changed the coolant temperature sensor on the driver side under the supercharger. Are there two sensors? One for the cluster and one for the computer? If there are two, where is the location of the second one?

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

I would love to do that, but since my car is near stock right now, I didn't think it was necessary. I changed the coolant temperature sensor on the driver side under the supercharger. Are there two sensors? One for the cluster and one for the computer? If there are two, where is the location of the second one?

The one under the super charger is your intake air temperature #2 sensor(IAT2).

That ECT engine coolant temp sensor is in the front of the drivers side head.

 

[SVTerror]

Thank you Jimmy for the info. I'm still unable to solve this issue at this time. My main concern is that I will have to drive my car about 300 miles next week to attend school, and I don't want it over-heating or throwing a code while I'm driving. I just hope it's nothing major like my PCM malfunctioning. I may try to check my gauge cluster tomorrow, and although I checked my thermostat, I may just replace it to be safe. If there are any other things I can check to solve this problem, I'm all ears.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Thank you Jimmy for the info. I'm still unable to solve this issue at this time. My main concern is that I will have to drive my car about 300 miles next week to attend school, and I don't want it over-heating or throwing a code while I'm driving. I just hope it's nothing major like my PCM malfunctioning. I may try to check my gauge cluster tomorrow, and although I checked my thermostat, I may just replace it to be safe. If there are any other things I can check to solve this problem, I'm all ears.

Look up how to do the odometer function test mode thing on here. Then you can scroll through and put it into ECT temp read out in Celsius and monitor your engine temps with the odometer reading digital engine temps on your trip.

 

[jrgoffin]

This??

Mustangworld HEC Instrument Cluster Diagnostics

 

[SVTerror]

Look up how to do the odometer function test mode thing on here. Then you can scroll through and put it into ECT temp read out in Celsius and monitor your engine temps with the odometer reading digital engine temps on your trip.

Wait...Jimmy, so that reading on the gauge cluster that I can see using the test mode, does that read the temperature of coolant through the ECT sensor that I just replaced located on the front of the drivers side head? Or does the test mode use a different sensor to determine the engine temp?

If the test mode is reading the temperature from the ECT sensor, then that narrows my problem down to a fault gauge. Does this sound about right?

 

[JB]

Or does the test mode use a different sensor to determine the engine temp?

It does use a different sensor...

That digital temp readout is coming from the cylinder-head-temperature sensor (CHT) that's screwed into the back of the passenger side head


.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

It does use a different sensor...

That digital temp readout is coming from the cylinder-head-temperature sensor (CHT) that's screwed into the back of the passenger side head


.

WOW! I did not know that! I always thought it just used the same one for both functions from the left front of head temp sensor.

Thanks JB!!:rockon::beer:

Freaking former parts guys!:bash:oke: Guess I need to get dirty a little more often.:-D

 

[JB]

Sorry guys, I had a major brain fart :bash:

I was thinking of one of my trucks, which has both ECT & CHT sensors

 

[cobracide]

So does that mean that the CHT is derived from the ECT sensor on the Cobra?

 

[SVTerror]

Sorry guys, I had a major brain fart :bash:

I was thinking of one of my trucks, which has both ECT & CHT sensors

So does that mean the test mode on our gauge clusters...the temperature that it shows is from the ECT? Because my gauge still doesn't work...and I took the gauge cluster out to see if there are any loose connections...

If the test mode does show the ECT sensor temperatures, that means my gauge cluster is the cause of my problem...not the PCM as I feared or some wire connection that would be difficult to find.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

So does that mean the test mode on our gauge clusters...the temperature that it shows is from the ECT? Because my gauge still doesn't work...and I took the gauge cluster out to see if there are any loose connections...

If the test mode does show the ECT sensor temperatures, that means my gauge cluster is the cause of my problem...not the PCM as I feared or some wire connection that would be difficult to find.

I'm pretty sure the answer to this question is yes.

Best way to find out is turn the cluster test function(excellent link provided above) on and scroll though to function #16 degrees in C. If it works the actual ECT gauge is most likely toast.

 

[SVTerror]

Update:

I was able to fix my issue (possibly temporary). The issue was the left smaller plug (looking straight down on the gauge cluster) was not contacting the mother board in the cluster for some reason. I had to apply a upward force on the plug to make the coolant temp gauge move and function properly. So instead of buying a entire new cluster I put a screw through the back plastic which would apply a upward force that would make my coolant temperature gauge read. It so far works, and hopefully this will cause me no more problems.

 

[hotcobra03]

not sure if this helps but its from ford manual

cluster test diag

https://acrobat.com/#d=55gJG8oS8SZS3bQqY411pA

cell 60
https://acrobat.com/#d=YKEUcZIOyef3H9gV*FcXpA
60-2
https://acrobat.com/#d=f5eupujk*S*bOF9Ngx9uNg
60-3
https://acrobat.com/#d=dyAJ6uozNyLlBOgar6XcKg

 

[SVTerror]

not sure if this helps but its from ford manual

cluster test diag

https://acrobat.com/#d=55gJG8oS8SZS3bQqY411pA

cell 60
https://acrobat.com/#d=YKEUcZIOyef3H9gV*FcXpA
60-2
https://acrobat.com/#d=f5eupujk*S*bOF9Ngx9uNg
60-3
https://acrobat.com/#d=dyAJ6uozNyLlBOgar6XcKg

Thanks! I will use this in the future!

I'm still unable to solve this issue at this time.

I suggest checking the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor and the thermostat. If those two are not the issue, try checking the connection that attaches to the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor with a volt meter to see if it's getting power. If that is not the case, next try the gauge cluster and check the connections behind the gauge cluster.