Malcolm's Teksid Cobra rebuild thread

[Givens]

I told you it would sound good, and the more miles you put on it, it will continue to sound better for some reason, I cant explain that part, but it does.

Also I think I read some where the Killer Chiller works better with it sitting up right, here is the only pic I have of mine when I was getting it setup. I may not be correct, but I'll do some research if I can find my instructions, I swear I read that somewhere.

I don't know why it would make a difference, I was also thinking of cutting some Plexiglas and installing it in front of the intercooler on hot days instead of all those valves. That way you still retain all of the fluid just a thought.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I told you it would sound good, and the more miles you put on it, it will continue to sound better for some reason, I cant explain that part, but it does.

Still doesn't sound as good as yours lol

Also I think I read some where the Killer Chiller works better with it sitting up right, here is the only pic I have of mine when I was getting it setup. I may not be correct, but I'll do some research if I can find my instructions, I swear I read that somewhere.

Actually no upright is the worst position followed by upside down. On its side the way I have it is the most efficient. I called Joe directly at Killer Chiller to enquire on this and get the reasoning behind it? He said it's because the oil in the A/C system will pool up in the KC unit and reduce the surface area that's able to transfer heat. So in your setup pointing straight up oil is pooling in there and unable to get out.
Same with upside down but the issue would be less pronounced. It would still collect across all the plates in there. On its side you have the best oil drainage and least amount of oil collection in the unit.

I don't know why it would make a difference, I was also thinking of cutting some Plexiglas and installing it in front of the intercooler on hot days instead of all those valves. That way you still retain all of the fluid just a thought.

I thought about that too but consider you also then block airflow to the AC condenser which is not good either. The local GT500 I mentioned ran his KC all summer with the heat exchanger inline (no valves or covering) and didn't see much of a problem or changes in temp. I'm sure it could have been a few degrees cooler but apparently not enough to be of concern. So for now I will run as is and see how it goes next summer

 

[Givens]

Still doesn't sound as good as yours lol

It will get there mine sounded just like that at first

Actually no upright is the worst position followed by upside down. On its side the way I have it is the most efficient. I called Joe directly at Killer Chiller to enquire on this and get the reasoning behind it? He said it's because the oil in the A/C system will pool up in the KC unit and reduce the surface area that's able to transfer heat. So in your setup pointing straight up oil is pooling in there and unable to get out.
Same with upside down but the issue would be less pronounced. It would still collect across all the plates in there. On its side you have the best oil drainage and least amount of oil collection in the unit.

You are correct I just went and read that on the instructions not sure why I didn't change the way I mounted mine. So far its working great if it becomes less efficient I'll change mine

 

[MalcolmV8]

It will get there mine sounded just like that at first

You are correct I just went and read that on the instructions not sure why I didn't change the way I mounted mine. So far its working great if it becomes less efficient I'll change mine

That's interesting. I still have more tuning to do too so we'll see how it ends up.

Should be easy enough to flip over later if needed.

 

[raym5_0]

Still doesn't sound as good as yours lol



Actually no upright is the worst position followed by upside down. On its side the way I have it is the most efficient. I called Joe directly at Killer Chiller to enquire on this and get the reasoning behind it? He said it's because the oil in the A/C system will pool up in the KC unit and reduce the surface area that's able to transfer heat. So in your setup pointing straight up oil is pooling in there and unable to get out.
Same with upside down but the issue would be less pronounced. It would still collect across all the plates in there. On its side you have the best oil drainage and least amount of oil collection in the unit.



I thought about that too but consider you also then block airflow to the AC condenser which is not good either. The local GT500 I mentioned ran his KC all summer with the heat exchanger inline (no valves or covering) and didn't see much of a problem or changes in temp. I'm sure it could have been a few degrees cooler but apparently not enough to be of concern. So for now I will run as is and see how it goes next summer

blocking it, caused my eng temp to go up slighty. Even with the 3-way valve there isn't a huge difference. I just recently removed my bypass setup & H/E and going to give it a try. It was really was nice to simplify the hosing with removing both of them. Hope to shed a few more degrees out of mine.

 

[whitedevil95]

Mine is inverted upside down. I could have sworn he told me inverted was the best way to run it specifically to keep oil out.

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

Not to take this thread backwards, but I've been meaning to ask about the excessive wear to the lower pulley for a while now. It's substantial.

How many miles on the lower pulley/cage support? Also, what pulley combo?

 

[MalcolmV8]

Not to take this thread backwards, but I've been meaning to ask about the excessive wear to the lower pulley for a while now. It's substantial.

How many miles on the lower pulley/cage support? Also, what pulley combo?

I assume you mean the prior lowers I was running. I wish I kept better records of mileage when I swap parts but I usually don't unless its something major. Stock lower setup was ruined in one summer so perhaps 5k miles? I was running a 3" upper.

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

I assume you mean the prior lowers I was running. I wish I kept better records of mileage when I swap parts but I usually don't unless its something major. Stock lower setup was ruined in one summer so perhaps 5k miles? I was running a 3" upper.

Thanks, and yes I meant the prior lower. You said lower(s) - plural - have you replaced more than one?

I've never had a factory caged lower apart before so the damage is clear, but I'm unsure of what needs to be replaced aside from the rubber bushings. Is the threaded end that had the threads completely worn out replaceable, or do you have to source a new lower with acceptable threads?

 

[MalcolmV8]

Thanks, and yes I meant the prior lower. You said lower(s) - plural - have you replaced more than one?

I've never had a factory caged lower apart before so the damage is clear, but I'm unsure of what needs to be replaced aside from the rubber bushings. Is the threaded end that had the threads completely worn out replaceable, or do you have to source a new lower with acceptable threads?

Yes plural. I'm on my third lower now. Once the threads in the center get trashed the whole thing is trashed as you can't source replacement parts.

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

Yes plural. I'm on my third lower now. Once the threads in the center get trashed the whole thing is trashed as you can't source replacement parts.

Yikes, that's significant wear in a small amount of time. It looked to come off of a 100K+ mile car opposed to only having a summer worth of use.

Thanks for the clarification. Looking forward to the next update.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Well I never liked the under hood air filter setup but with the giant whipple crusher inlet there's no options out there. Now that I have a killer chiller setup I really wanted to get rid of it more than ever.... so I decided to build something

Here's where the filter was.

That whipple crusher inlet is very large. 6" diameter at the filter end and not wanting to pinch it down and defeat the purpose of having a crusher intake I found some 6" mandrel bent tubing. After many hours of testing, design and mock up I ended up with this.

To give you an idea of the size

Painted with a textured high heat paint to match the finish in the rest of the engine bay.

Yes I had to open up the hole in the fender for this to get through. The piping was just to big for that tiny factory sized hole.

I had to relocate my fuel pressure regulator up higher and make all new hoses for it. Only the 100th time I've made hoses and adjusted me fuel setup. I can practically do it with my eyes closed anymore lol

I went with a really thin hardline tubing to the FPR to increase response time. Thanks Mike for the tips on that.

One immediate nice thing I noticed is when the cooling fan kicks on the wash no longer hits the MAF sensor and causes my idle to flutter right as it comes on. It's now nice and shielded.

Once the weather warms up some and I get some seat time we'll see how IAT temps have changed, I'm betting a lot and be more like when I had the filter in the fender with my old Eaton setup. The blower whine should be louder too as it echoes in the fender. I remember experimenting with that on the Eaton way back when.

 

[whitedevil95]

Looks good. Do you have some IAT temps from before the change? I have the basic RAI with the heat shield off. I also have a KC that runs full time meaning my fan is always on. I wonder about how much heat it picks up. I have noticed though that once your moving even 20mph air flows under the hood and the IAT2 temps drop back down pretty quickly.

 

[raym5_0]

nice, looks pretty close to my old Anderson Power Pipe that I modified for mine. the only PITA issue is getting to the two fastening nuts near the filter that hold on to the front bumper.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Looks good. Do you have some IAT temps from before the change? I have the basic RAI with the heat shield off. I also have a KC that runs full time meaning my fan is always on. I wonder about how much heat it picks up. I have noticed though that once your moving even 20mph air flows under the hood and the IAT2 temps drop back down pretty quickly.

IAT1 would start to climb as soon as you got into slower driving. Even 20 mph or 40 mph was a bit hotter than cruising at say 70 on the highway. What would really kill me is stopping at a light for example. My IAT1 temps would jump to 110+ just sucking in the hot radiator heat. That made the intercooler system have to work overtime. Then you get moving IAT1 would come down some but never manage to get close to ambient unless you managed to get some good speed (55+).
Not to mention park the car for a bit and get back in lol. IAT1 through the roof.
These blowers suffer from heat issues so much I'm really hoping this helps out a lot.

nice, looks pretty close to my old Anderson Power Pipe that I modified for mine. the only PITA issue is getting to the two fastening nuts near the filter that hold on to the front bumper.

If I was to remove my bumper I'd pull the filter first for access to the nuts. This filter/pipe combo is actually so wide I had to flatten that 90 degree lip off the fender right where it meets the bumper. Notice how my filter/pipe is flush against the fender/bumper joining area. That's not normally possible due to what looks like a little shelf of metal sticking out.

 

[whitedevil95]

IAT1 would start to climb as soon as you got into slower driving. Even 20 mph or 40 mph was a bit hotter than cruising at say 70 on the highway. What would really kill me is stopping at a light for example. My IAT1 temps would jump to 110+ just sucking in the hot radiator heat. That made the intercooler system have to work overtime. Then you get moving IAT1 would come down some but never manage to get close to ambient unless you managed to get some good speed (55+).
Not to mention park the car for a bit and get back in lol. IAT1 through the roof.
These blowers suffer from heat issues so much I'm really hoping this helps out a lot.

Yeah hopefully. If I ever step up to a 2.9 i will likely go with a High boost for the cooler air and such. Anything to help reduce heat is a win with these cars.