sounds good, I have about 200 miles on it now. I have had it up to about 5,800-6k for a second of half throttle. but really stay well under 5k for 99% of the driving I have done.
Making the move over.
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sounds good, I have about 200 miles on it now. I have had it up to about 5,800-6k for a second of half throttle. but really stay well under 5k for 99% of the driving I have done.
I believe the manual says take it easy for the first 500 miles and to vary engine RPM. I essentially did my break-in when I drove it back home. Ever since then, my R sees 8250 on the regular. She doesn't smoke or burn oil.
sounds good, I have about 200 miles on it now. I have had it up to about 5,800-6k for a second of half throttle. but really stay well under 5k for 99% of the driving I have done.
The manual says 100 miles before heavy WOT pulls, then no heavy track use before 1000 miles
Drive it hard and then let motor decel for break in.
Only limit is extreme RPM.
This method never served me wrong.
Huge congrats
-J
Only limit is extreme RPM.
This method never served me wrong.
Huge congrats
-J
Other than limiting extreme RPM, you need to drive it hard. Meaning 50-75% throttle then allow engine breaking. Seating the rings on both sides (accel/decel) has always served me well on new motors.
Other than ring seal, these are really good to go from factory. 500 miles more for clutch than engine IMO.
Congrats!
-J
Other than ring seal, these are really good to go from factory. 500 miles more for clutch than engine IMO.
Congrats!
-J
thank you, i like this method. Also planning on the 1000 mile oil change. after that she will be fully ready to rip!
Yeah, I agree on the decel especially. Most people try to baby a new motor. I don't abuse, but you want to generate heat to seat the rings fully. Nice acceleration, run through the gears and engine breaking. Just not high rpm, especially for a sustained time.
Tom
Everyone focuses on breaking in the engine, but the component that needs the most careful break-in is actually the differential. Varying the speed and load is critical to getting the brand-new gears to mate up properly. Everything else is in good shape from the factory, but the gears still need some time to get to know each other.
As an auto enthusiast and a "mod" guy for 2 decades, this subject comes up from time to time and it's not just cars, but anything with a motor, firearms, basically anything that has mechanical moving parts.
What I've found over the years on multiple forums covering multiple sectors is that....there really is no correct answer.
For every guy that swears you should follow the manufacturer's recommendations and treat the car like a delicate flower, there's a guy with 40 years of auto racing who swears the opposite. There's invariably the guy who's bought a dozen new cars and did a burnout in the dealer lot on his way onto the boulevard for a WOT pull.
What I've found is that while there's wild variance in what a bunch of EXPERIENCED mechanics, racers, enthusiasts recommend, there are some commonalities and those common ground aspects are probably solid points.
Most people agree you probably shouldn't drone the car out at the same RPM on cruise for 4 hours during the "break in period." Most people agree that you probably shouldn't redline the isht out of the car until the rings are properly seated and all the materials are slightly annealed into their mating dimensions or elastic limits.
I guess what I'm saying is if you ask the question (or bring up the aspect) you're going to get huge differences in how people approach it and the frustrating thing is that it'll be from people that know what they're talking about (on both sides of the issue).
What I've found over the years on multiple forums covering multiple sectors is that....there really is no correct answer.
For every guy that swears you should follow the manufacturer's recommendations and treat the car like a delicate flower, there's a guy with 40 years of auto racing who swears the opposite. There's invariably the guy who's bought a dozen new cars and did a burnout in the dealer lot on his way onto the boulevard for a WOT pull.
What I've found is that while there's wild variance in what a bunch of EXPERIENCED mechanics, racers, enthusiasts recommend, there are some commonalities and those common ground aspects are probably solid points.
Most people agree you probably shouldn't drone the car out at the same RPM on cruise for 4 hours during the "break in period." Most people agree that you probably shouldn't redline the isht out of the car until the rings are properly seated and all the materials are slightly annealed into their mating dimensions or elastic limits.
I guess what I'm saying is if you ask the question (or bring up the aspect) you're going to get huge differences in how people approach it and the frustrating thing is that it'll be from people that know what they're talking about (on both sides of the issue).
That's why the safest bet is to follow the recommendations of the people who built the car/engine. You can't go wrong there. That said, I'm on team Drive It The Way You're Gonna Drive It. I'm not a believer in the newborn baby treatment. Engine manufacturing has advanced a long way since the 1970s, which was probably the last time you had to be delicate with new engines. Maybe the '80s.
I agree. We've come a long way in the way that we build engines in terms of mating and pre-stressing materials, etc. And with all the sensors and nanny features these motors have now, it's pretty difficult to "hurt" it without the motor/computer applying the side rails.
Exactly the way I look at it. I broke my GT500 engine in on the dyno per the instructions of the builder.
I know a good deal of old school pushrod engine break in. I have broken in 5-6 brand new rebuilt motors for my classic mustangs I have owed and still own. The way I have always done it is 500 miles of “normal” driving then change oil and ready to bang gears. This method has always worked for me just fine. I know there are experienced engine builders that run a brand new just put together motor straight on the engine dyno and full throttle it to 7k. So my main question was what worked for these cars, this is the first flat plane crank motor I’ve ever had and brand spanking new modern engine.
So I think I’m going to run my theory of drive normal (but not baby) it till 1k just to be safe. Change oil then she is ready for whatever I throw at it . I am already gradually getting on it more and more. Still no foot to floor and nowhere near 7k. On a side note I’m NOT used to revving a V8 this high hahaha. Love it !
So I think I’m going to run my theory of drive normal (but not baby) it till 1k just to be safe. Change oil then she is ready for whatever I throw at it . I am already gradually getting on it more and more. Still no foot to floor and nowhere near 7k. On a side note I’m NOT used to revving a V8 this high hahaha. Love it !
It lives for revs. Once you start really getting on it, you'll see. The people that complain(ed) about it being slow obviously never put their foot in it. When I'm playing around with the curves and letting it hang out at 5K RPM then plant my foot to the floor to get to the next curve, my R takes off like a rocket! Yeah, it's not as fast or torquey as my GT500, but it's FAR from slow. That's for dang sure!
I just moved myself out of a 2016 tech pack and into a 2017. Both cars avalance grey with black stripes, do you think the wife will notice...
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Lol. The wife shouldn’t have a clue. There is another thread regarding that very subject
just tell her you put a new spoiler on it haha
that's what i have read and watched countless vids on. this is a COMPLETELY different car below and above 4,500. also a completely different car when being pushed from just easy driving around. I miss my 500 , but I am happy I made the move. the 350 is more all around car. Everything impresses you in the 350 vs "power" in the 500.
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